Not feeling it... unplugged WGFV, wound screw all the way back in the WG housing, opened the WG and checked everything moved ok (not got a pump yet to check by hand) all looked good, went for a drive I get 1.4 bar of boost, ffs now that's annoying, and that is with the WGFV uncoupled. I reset the ECU, plugged in the WGFV and drove home but didn't get room to go fast enough to go past 1.0 bar.....!
For info the spring is;
81.92mm long
38.34 OD
32.81 ID
2.84 Wire thickness
Depth from lip of WG cover to spring seat, 30.19 (See photo)
ABY ECU Intermittent issue
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I did some tests with an airline before - you might find results of that in here with a search - tis a few years old (or more)Leave a comment:
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Thanks guys,
I'll try and get in tonight and nail it all down, size, sticking etc.
With a std spring do we have a lbs/inch kind of value I can use to measure spring strength as well?Leave a comment:
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Well for OE I get 85mm length, 2.8mm wire thickness with a 38.5mm OD.
I have also found a spring with a blue paint stripe which is 75mm length, 3mm wire thickness and 36.5mm OD which I think is from a 10V not a 20V. Due to the smaller ID it will not fit over the 20V spring perch.
With the cap inverted, the top of the perch is 25.5mm from the cap flange if thats of any use. The perch itself should be 40mm OD 32.5mm ID with a step of 5.8mm. So you would need to add 5.8mm to the 25.5mm to get a dimension from the cap flange down to where the spring seats. All the measurements are from an unmolested wastegate.
There appears to be no paint ID on this particular OE spring and the silver paint mark on the other I have might just be wishful thinking on my part. It is only what appears to be a blob of silver on one coil as opposed to a stripe down the spring.Last edited by twoqu; 13 June 2014, 14:32.Leave a comment:
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probably a higher spec spring, but also check the WG valve itself isn't sticking... with a vacuum applied (by hand pump) to the upper chamber then quickly removed you just hear a satisfying & swift 'thunk' as the WG spring pushes the valve back down into the gate.Leave a comment:
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Well there are aftermarket 0.9bar springs but usually they are shorter and the wire diameter greater.
I was a little concerned with the spring as it was a tad shorter than expected although it looked like a stock spring. The blue paint mark was different to the one I had which is silver paint. Not that I have seen every wastegate spring that Audi has fitted. I will check another stock w/g.
Best thing to do is pop the cap off and measure the diameter/wire thickness/length.Leave a comment:
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Well that's annoying..... it runs okay but boost is now 0.9 with WGFV disconnected!
Could I have an uprated spring?
I'll take the Wastgate top off again and see if I can screw the pre-load back some more.Leave a comment:
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Happy days - that is best way to establish your baseline and check for any fault codes, odd mixture etc.Leave a comment:
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Quick update:
Latch adapter arrived this morning (Boost Button) and I dropped the chips in Robin had programmed for me and it worked fine, so I now have a standard ECU mapping to benchmark the car!
Have wound the pre-load screw back some more and will try a test run later, hopefully we'll see about 0.4-0.5 on the gauge with the WGFV disconnected, then we are back to base.
TTFN
TimLeave a comment:
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Sounds too high!
You will need to wind out the screw to get it below say 0.5bar. It might take a bit of experimentation. There is still that nagging doubt about the spring.
Then clear the codes and it should be close.
The only thing we cannot quantify is the quality of the SW as there is no feedback on them.Leave a comment:
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I've just driven it with the wastegate valve disconnected, between 0.6 and 0.8 bar of boost..so the spring looks OK.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using TapatalkLeave a comment:
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The stock level should be around 1 bar although under overboost conditions that would be increased slightly. The upgrade chips should be in the 1.4 bar region. Both usually use the stock wastegate spring preload.
As we have discussd previously it is better to make sure that the wastegate has the 0.4 bar mechanical boost level first by electrically disconnecting the wastegate valve, especially as it has been adjusted previously.
Then if it does not make more boost than stock you will have to investigate why!Leave a comment:
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Have a boost gauge. ..a quick test showed only 1 bar of boost before WG opened...but that was not with the WG valve disconnected...tomorrow I'll try and experiment further......
Sent from my GT-I9300 using TapatalkLeave a comment:
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Would have been better to shake it down with stock chips. When you know it performs as it should then you can look at increasing power.
You will need to familarise yourself with the basics. Fault codes and pressure testing. They are the basic trouble shooting procedures. Not having a boost gauge makes diagnosing boost issues problematic.
The chips you have as mentioned previously should suit all the stock hardware inclding the map sensor as basically the maximum they support. The 285PK = 281bhp which is what most upgrades give as its the most cost effective upgrade. We don't seem to know a lot about these chips.
So check for any fault codes first.Leave a comment:
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