ABY ECU Intermittent issue
Collapse
X
-
Holy Crap she passed!
Yep, she passed her MOT this morning and the ECU seems not to be playing up. I have the Nero chips in still and still no boost gauge so I am taking it easy, but boy she shifts...
Robin and I have been exchanging PM's and I should have some original spec chips for the ECU when I get home so get those in and fix the one other problem I had.... a radiator hose blew off post MOT so I have a cooling issue to deal with!
The main thing is that she passed
I'll be pasting a quick and dirty video later but thanks to all input from people who have been offering advice etc you are stars!
Attached FilesLeave a comment:
-
-
So I found something else yesterday..... Remember the first page from this thread, the nice picture of the fuse box.....fuse S27 wasn't seated correctly!
Because these are the non standard fuse boxes with spade terminals that I installed, it is possible for the spade to miss the hole and slide next to the spade giving a less than perfect connection.... This is now also corrected!
Saturday MOT drive, let's see how she drives then, fingers crossed!
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
Standalone boost gauge ordered so hopefully I can get in at the weekend and check this out. The thread inside the cap is a bit burred so it looks like I'll have to tap that just to clean it up.
...and who the hell ordered this rain???Leave a comment:
-
Ok thanks for the advice guys, I'll check the rest of the cap and see if I can screw it back up to a standard'ish position.
I'll have to see if I can buy the boost add on for my dashboard (DD2_lite)Leave a comment:
-
Pretty sure you have a stock spring there. If the anti tamper plug is removed then just bring the screw back up till you just have 4 -6 threads showing where the plug would be, this will put you in the ballpark. The final spring preload should be set with a boost gauge on the car with WGFV unplugged. You can fit a temporary boost gauge although it's a good bit of kit to have on the car.Leave a comment:
-
You are looking at the spring pic wrong. The std one is on the right which looks like what you have.
I think I was measuring from where the spring sits on the spring seat down to the base of the cap.
Basically the screw barely makes it though the bottom of the cap.
Can probably provide another dimension to get you in the ballpark if thats not clear enough. If you invert the cap so you are loking at the inside and place the spring seat over the screw, the top of the spring seat OD should be in the region of 18mm from the bottom of the cap vertically.Leave a comment:
-
Leave a comment:
-
I don't have a boost gauge yet but I have considered one, so now may be the time just I don't want to mess up my dashboard. I am also considering taking the wastegate off and testing with a bicycle pump to get it approximately right
I'm away from home for a few days, but I'll try and get in on Wednesday night.
I reckon the photo from urs4 shows me that this is a 1.9 bar spring.
@ twoqu. The 18mm mentioned in your other post, is that from the tip of the bolt to the machined base inside the cap ?Leave a comment:
-
As mentioned previously it less hazardous to have less boost than too much. If you have a boost gauge you could use that to set a baseline of 0.4bar with the WGFV disabled electrically. This will throw a code I would think.
Other than that start with the dimension in that link which should be in the ballpark.
Does highlight the issue of checking stuff before condeming other stuff. Not even the stock chips will like the wastegate screw wround right in!Leave a comment:
-
On the road now, but yes the tamperproof cap is removed..... it'll be back to 'measure/adjust/test' then
Sent from my GT-I9300 using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
Get us a shot of the top of the wastegate cap. If you can see the threads then the tamperproof cap has been removed which would obviously allow somebody to wind the screw in! Not good.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: