thank you for reply. so my oil my oil pressure it's ok, not to high?! you got no issues with blowing turbo i guess? my cold idle is 6 bar, hot 1.8 bar. reving cold 7.5 bar, reving hot 6.5 bar. i have no idea what to test next?! oil pump?
is it possible that wrongly connected n75 or dump valve can damage the turbo? max boost 1.8 (25 psi) i'm sure i connected all good, but still.... and another thing after all upgrades, mapping, turbo, injectors, manifold etc car never made target 400bhp it made 312bhp on last mrc rolling road. it looses torque at high revs. but i gues it's down to wastegate, or spring. but on another hand maybe it's all together, one problem?!!
20v keep blowing turbo, help please
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You nearly got 7.4Bar on cold revs, that looks not too high. Is the max pressure also 7.4Bar on hot oil or is it only temporary with cold oil?
I have seen 6Bar on cold idle, but it started to drop off really fast when the engine began to warm up (5w40). Max i have seen is 7Bar on cold revs, after that the oil pressure relief valve probably works it's magic. On hot, my max is also 6.5-7Bar, not more. Hot idle is between 1.8-1.4Bar depending how hot the oil actually is.Leave a comment:
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so anyone know what min and max pressure should on cold,
and the same hot engine?
i have a thoughts that my oil pressure it is to high, and that is blowing seals on turboLeave a comment:
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There is a video for oil pressure gauge fitted into oil feed to turbo pipe, start on cold engine, what you guys think?
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Yes guys, i got boost gauge, overboost 1.8 and goes 1.6, 1.7 on the red line. I thought about it, but turbo not boosted past 1.8 bar or 25psi
If something wrong with dump valve or n75 (both new) plumbing, is that 1.8 bar of boost can cause turbo failure?Leave a comment:
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That's a good point, do you have a boost gauge on the car and if so what does it read?Leave a comment:
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One turbo could be a few things. Three turbos on the same car has to be oil or water starvation. Do you have a boost gauge. I once had a brand new rs2 turbo blow through some bad chips, but prj is a first class guy and I doubt its his chips,but you could have a problem with the n75 wiring causing the car to overboost. Mine use to snap right up to 2.2 plus and went like a train for about a week then it started to touch the casing like yours .
I had it rebuilt by CR turbos, then I had the car mapped by prj and its been running great ever since.Leave a comment:
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Have a look in the oil return to the block, if it's blocked and causing a restriction that could be why oil is building up and leaking past the seals. Not sure on original failure though, but if the bearings broke down badly something could have clogged the return.Leave a comment:
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nothing is leaking at all, everything clean and tidy, you can almost eat your dinner from engine bay. so what else can make turbo failure in short time. high boost i guess, but i'm running only 1.8 bar.Leave a comment:
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AFAIK you don't need a restrictor with that turbo indeed.
Are you sure the oil feed is not blocked or so? Mine leaked a bit and therefore not supplied enough oil to the turbo. The perfectly fine S2 turbo was then killed in no time..Leave a comment:
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turbo develpments in uk who rebuilded my turbo asked me about a restrictor, but i'm using kkk27 turbo which is NOT a ball bearing turbo and as much as i know they do not need any restrictors, can i prooved wrong?This is what 034 Motorsport says about turbo oil flows for non-stock turbos:
"A Garrett GT ball bearing center section only needs 20-30 psi to lubricate effectively. Many motors produce oil pressure in excess of 100psi, often forcing oil past the shaft seals, causing smoking problems. Restrictor size is .035" or .89mm
An oil restrictor will drop pressure levels to the appropriate level, alleviating smoking problems and ensure long-lasting, well lubricated bearings.
Recommended for ALL Garret GT Turbo installations, also converts the tricky inverted flare inlet to a simple -4 AN inlet.
Price each, often included in 034Motorsport oil/water line kits.
Machined from aluminum and anodized"

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Turbo oil flow restrictors
This is what 034 Motorsport says about turbo oil flows for non-stock turbos:
"A Garrett GT ball bearing center section only needs 20-30 psi to lubricate effectively. Many motors produce oil pressure in excess of 100psi, often forcing oil past the shaft seals, causing smoking problems. Restrictor size is .035" or .89mm
An oil restrictor will drop pressure levels to the appropriate level, alleviating smoking problems and ensure long-lasting, well lubricated bearings.
Recommended for ALL Garret GT Turbo installations, also converts the tricky inverted flare inlet to a simple -4 AN inlet.
Price each, often included in 034Motorsport oil/water line kits.
Machined from aluminum and anodized"
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i connected gauge into bottom oil pressure switch place.where did you measured the oilpressure?
to much oilpressure will not damage the turbo!
only ballbearing turbo's need a ristrictor
maybe you have to little oilpressure on oilfeedline from the turbo
I suggest you to disassemble the oilfeedline on the turbo and put it in a bottle and start the engine and let it run for 3 seconds to see if you have enough oilflow
i have tried it to disconnect oil feed to turbo, oil flowing even when i crank it, is it enough? how to measure? i'm thinking to T into oil line what goes to turbo and connect a gauge to see it. any other ways to measure how much oil turbo getting, at what pressure? or maybe everything ok with oil, maybe it something else? i just can't see out of the bow if you know what i mean.Leave a comment:
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