Hi folks
My software http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74832
has not boost limit as it makes 1.3bar with 200kpa sensor. It may be not safe.
But before I change the software in my car, I have an important problem to solve.
This topic was somewhat discussed on motorgeek, where I was looking for a solution to my problem.
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=55188 the thread. Missing input there, so I am posting it here. My nearly stock apart from software 3b was running fine for some time after I purchased. At some point, it started to feel less agile. Did not have boost gauge installed by then so I was not really sure if it wasn't me getting used to the car. It still pulls hard, but there is something regarding the feel., i.e. it is not so harsh anymore, if that term can be used.
It is not the software. I have tried ben swann chipped ecu (stock spring though), did the same, only in higher pressures
The text below might somewhat be similar to something I have posted before when I tried to hijack the thread here: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...t=74027&page=3
Now the boost drop:
If I floor the pedal, pressure raises to 1.3bar (1.6bar with ben swann), and then drops at approx. -0.1bar/sec rate to 0.7-0.9bar depending on how long it takes (the longer, the less pressure). And it does not have anything to do with rpms where k24 gets weak. It does the same in whole rpm range, lets say I accelerate on the highway in the 5th gear 3,000 to 5,000 rpm, no need to redline the car. To be 100% sure, i have tried applying a brake pedal for few seconds to keep rpms constant - same thing.
Video with normal WOT acceleration:
Video with wot + LFB to keep rpms constant to prove that that is not the turbo that is getting weak at specific rpms:
Pressure tested the intake
Nearly every hose that might have a boost leak is silicon now. Breather (new valves for it), typical samco set, all smaller breather lines, straight isv line, throttle body hose, you name it. Small vacuum and pressure control lines are rubber, but they are only 4 years old and they are fine. There are 2 exceptions: intake maf to turbo hose (was changed to leak free hose, no effect) and one angled isv hose - they are oem. Heavy duty clamps everywhere (i mean enormous if fitment allowed). Also IC to a pipe behind cross bar connection is covered with silicon hose as well.
Round 1: Did a pressure test with my boost leak tester, this time i plugged it directly to maf hose but I wouldn't put any more than 1 bar (because I know it is not supposed to have pressure really and same with breather). 1st leak - dipstick, missing o-ring. fixed.
Round 2: up to pressures of 0.3bar, no significant leak. Pressure holds. At pressures closer to 1bar, my oil cap started to show en enormous leak. HOW COME? Oil channels from the crankcase? (remember I am testing the whole thing, incl breather). We had to press it down really hard to make it shut up.
Else, no more leaks. Something was sizzling somewhere around EM, but it was very insignificant. I thought it could have been intake/exhaust valves.
I know those oil caps are supposed to release pressure in case crankcase ventilation fails. But mine is rattling inside and I am getting a new oem cap anyway and see how it goes.
Is this supposed to leak and where how come there is pressure under valve cover??
Fuel:
Tested at some point before, rail pressure follows the exact pressure drop pattern as the IM pressure. I mean exactly. IM pressure+3bar. At boost drop from 1.3bar to 0.9bar, fuel pressure drops from 4.3bar to 3.9bar. So fpr/pump checks out.
Checked the voltage @ pump connector at idle - 13.5 ish. Not too high, but not too low to cause trouble.
Lambda:
Fluctuates at 0.99 to 1.04 at idle and cruise, richens as i put my foot down to 0.94-0.91, and sometimes to 0.87 (rare). Could be more rich, right? but is this enough to cause trouble? Maybe it makes the engine knock and the ecu drops the pressure?
No difference with WB lsu4.9 sensor + controller with nb output vs stock lambda.
Other tests:
Plugs F5dpor as supposed, changed them to new, no change at all (daah). Head serviced (new intake valves, because crank pulley failed) and mls gasket etc. No change. Ecu often gets a fault of voltage too low (happens at idle), but i will soon need a new battery i guess.
Of course, oil, filters, timing belt etc is serviced more often than needed.
DV tried both in wrong and right directions, no change.
Suspects:
N75. Tried one from urs4, the drop is still there, but it is slower.
MAF - how to test it? dropping a known good one in is the only way to go?
ANY IDEAS GUYS?
Attached some pics of the engine. It is still w/stock, oem injectors and oem EM in the picture.
Running volvo injectors now: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...628#post818628
Rs2 replica EM
WB lambda
My software http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74832
has not boost limit as it makes 1.3bar with 200kpa sensor. It may be not safe.
But before I change the software in my car, I have an important problem to solve.
This topic was somewhat discussed on motorgeek, where I was looking for a solution to my problem.
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=55188 the thread. Missing input there, so I am posting it here. My nearly stock apart from software 3b was running fine for some time after I purchased. At some point, it started to feel less agile. Did not have boost gauge installed by then so I was not really sure if it wasn't me getting used to the car. It still pulls hard, but there is something regarding the feel., i.e. it is not so harsh anymore, if that term can be used.
It is not the software. I have tried ben swann chipped ecu (stock spring though), did the same, only in higher pressures
The text below might somewhat be similar to something I have posted before when I tried to hijack the thread here: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...t=74027&page=3
Now the boost drop:
If I floor the pedal, pressure raises to 1.3bar (1.6bar with ben swann), and then drops at approx. -0.1bar/sec rate to 0.7-0.9bar depending on how long it takes (the longer, the less pressure). And it does not have anything to do with rpms where k24 gets weak. It does the same in whole rpm range, lets say I accelerate on the highway in the 5th gear 3,000 to 5,000 rpm, no need to redline the car. To be 100% sure, i have tried applying a brake pedal for few seconds to keep rpms constant - same thing.
Video with normal WOT acceleration:
Video with wot + LFB to keep rpms constant to prove that that is not the turbo that is getting weak at specific rpms:
Pressure tested the intake
Nearly every hose that might have a boost leak is silicon now. Breather (new valves for it), typical samco set, all smaller breather lines, straight isv line, throttle body hose, you name it. Small vacuum and pressure control lines are rubber, but they are only 4 years old and they are fine. There are 2 exceptions: intake maf to turbo hose (was changed to leak free hose, no effect) and one angled isv hose - they are oem. Heavy duty clamps everywhere (i mean enormous if fitment allowed). Also IC to a pipe behind cross bar connection is covered with silicon hose as well.
Round 1: Did a pressure test with my boost leak tester, this time i plugged it directly to maf hose but I wouldn't put any more than 1 bar (because I know it is not supposed to have pressure really and same with breather). 1st leak - dipstick, missing o-ring. fixed.
Round 2: up to pressures of 0.3bar, no significant leak. Pressure holds. At pressures closer to 1bar, my oil cap started to show en enormous leak. HOW COME? Oil channels from the crankcase? (remember I am testing the whole thing, incl breather). We had to press it down really hard to make it shut up.
Else, no more leaks. Something was sizzling somewhere around EM, but it was very insignificant. I thought it could have been intake/exhaust valves.
I know those oil caps are supposed to release pressure in case crankcase ventilation fails. But mine is rattling inside and I am getting a new oem cap anyway and see how it goes.
Is this supposed to leak and where how come there is pressure under valve cover??
Fuel:
Tested at some point before, rail pressure follows the exact pressure drop pattern as the IM pressure. I mean exactly. IM pressure+3bar. At boost drop from 1.3bar to 0.9bar, fuel pressure drops from 4.3bar to 3.9bar. So fpr/pump checks out.
Checked the voltage @ pump connector at idle - 13.5 ish. Not too high, but not too low to cause trouble.
Lambda:
Fluctuates at 0.99 to 1.04 at idle and cruise, richens as i put my foot down to 0.94-0.91, and sometimes to 0.87 (rare). Could be more rich, right? but is this enough to cause trouble? Maybe it makes the engine knock and the ecu drops the pressure?
No difference with WB lsu4.9 sensor + controller with nb output vs stock lambda.
Other tests:
Plugs F5dpor as supposed, changed them to new, no change at all (daah). Head serviced (new intake valves, because crank pulley failed) and mls gasket etc. No change. Ecu often gets a fault of voltage too low (happens at idle), but i will soon need a new battery i guess.
Of course, oil, filters, timing belt etc is serviced more often than needed.
DV tried both in wrong and right directions, no change.
Suspects:
N75. Tried one from urs4, the drop is still there, but it is slower.
MAF - how to test it? dropping a known good one in is the only way to go?
ANY IDEAS GUYS?
Attached some pics of the engine. It is still w/stock, oem injectors and oem EM in the picture.
Running volvo injectors now: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...628#post818628
Rs2 replica EM
WB lambda
Pump it up to 1.5 Bar and spray some soapy water on all the joints, check the injector seals, N75, WG pipe etc.. That black right angle pipe on the ISV can leak underneath the clamp (mine did, took me a year to find it). Get your friend to keep the pressure up and listen inside the car, by the ECU, boost gauge if you have one, and under the rear seat where the diff lock vac line goes.
i am really ashamed about the real reason though.
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