no oil pressure after engine rebuilt

[ACQ]

I used semi sintetic oil just for starting( after I will use fully sintetic 10w60 maybe). So this valve is very necessary for runing car? I think that I demaged this valve when I installed arp main bearing caps studs. So if I install new one it will happen again. mine looks the same as in the left http://12v.org/urs/GoodAndCrushedChe..._Annotated.jpg

[Pirvu Eugen]

Take the sump out and remove that arp bolt from nr 3 cap intake side. With that long bold you reduce the diameter of the oil path to the head and sensors. This is the reason you damaged the valve in the first place.
That valve is there to keep the oil gallery for the head full. At startup the head and lifters will receive oil faster than without the valve.
BTW! You know the ARP part number from the mains bolts you used?
Thank you and goodluck!

[ACQ]

not a good news that it is the only one way to remove sump and take this stud out.. As I remembered I didn't twist the studs to the end. I keeped the space... I don't know what is the arp part number. I will look tommorow.

[Pirvu Eugen]

Thank you!
About the valve....is your choice...
The wear at startup on the head assembly will be higher.
All the best!

[ACQ]

thinking what it gives if new valve will be machined and it don't touch the stud, because stud has a contact only in the end of valve

[ACQ]

Are these valve the same for 3b, ann and other? Where can I order this one for a good price?

[mac2226]

Yes there same I got mine from 034,I had to reduce the length of one arp main stud about two or three thread lengths to stop it crushing the valve

[ACQ]

Mine stud is ok. I just remembered that at first I tightened studs to the end by tools of my lack knowledge. After I screwed them out and screw them in again by fingers leaving spaces in the end by 3 or more thread lengths. I think that I damaged oil check valve at first time, so I hope I need to change only a check valve

[pasbogdan]

Do any tests only crancking with spark plugs out and injector plugs out.

[ACQ]

Have problem again... I have bought new one from audi center, but I have damaged it again and I saw that diameter of the end 10,7mm. Another one which was original before was 10mm and have no damage at the same place. I think that there is no touch with arp stud, because I removed old valve with no more damage at all thread.

In rebuilt process, I have tightened arp studs with a key with my lack of knowledge. So after I removed them and tightened them with fingers and left enough space to the end. So I damaged it at first time when I tightened them with a key I think...

There are a photos looks old one and new one with bigger end diameter which I tried to install. Have someone this hole in the cross-sectional drawing or photo? I would like to be sure that I don't need to remove oil pan and arp stud, but buy another one valve with correct diameter end. also how much I have tighten this valve?

[AndyP]

The valve should be screwed in until it bottoms, does not need to be really tight, just give it a tweak.

Have you tried dtarting the engine with the new valve installed? What damage do you think you've done to the new valve? I see some scratches on the end, but nothing that would affect the operation of the valve.

[ACQ]

No I didn't start the engine with new one. Yes it has scratches and one crack... Maybe bore at the end is smaller or something? because old valve have no scratches and is 10mm diameter and new one have scratches with 10.7mm diameter. Also tighten the valve required a little force at the end for more rotates.

[AndyP]

If you get a new one you could put it in a drill and polish the 10.7mm down to 10mm easily