Valve re-working

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  • S2Roo
    S2Forum Enthusiast
    • Feb 2004
    • 191
    • Country: United Kingdom

    #1

    Valve re-working

    I have discovered that after my crank pulley woodruff key sheared off, I am in the market for a minimum of two new inlet valves. I'm sure ppl on here have replaced valves, so I was looking for a BTDT and how to replace the inlet valves. If anyone can help me with the follow questions, it would be much appreciated

    Should I replace all the valves or just the bent ones?

    How long should I expect to spend grinding them in?

    Is there a recommened grinding paste?

    Is the valve spring compression tool required a special one for the 20V head, or will any overhead cam one work?

    What else should I replace while I'm there?

    If anyone had a step by step guide they would be great!!!

    Thanks

    S2Roo
  • mcandmar
    S2Forum Zealot
    • Apr 2004
    • 5118
    • Country: Ireland

    #2
    The traditional valve spring compressors won’t fit in the head as the top of the valves are recessed. Basically the end of the spring compressor has to drop into the head about an inch to reach the valve, the thickness of the hydraulic lifter. I ran into this problem myself in the past and had to get a machine shop to pull them. You could possibly buy a tool that will fit I just couldn’t find any.

    You could just replace the two valves to get it all working again, depends on how fussy you are, I would advise you pull them all and change the valve seals as it’s the only time you will get a chance to do it.

    When grinding valves its best done by eye, grind a bit, then clean the seat and look at the ground bit, should be a prefect ring. Depending on wear and if you want it all perfect you might replace the seats, guides and valves and get a fancy five angle valve job done. ...Then you start talking yourself into a port and polish
    91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
    93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
    94S2Bus - The Emerald Express

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    • Graham
      S2Forum Extremist
      • Jul 2003
      • 1622
      • Home: United Kingdom Current: Australia

      #3
      I got them with a valve tool and extension piece, (all 10 of my inlet were fooked), was a bit of a bitch to do, but still do-able. I spent as long as was needed till i had full contact all of the way round the mating faces. New stem seals, also check the cotters which hold the cap on, i had mine NDT'd using ultra sonics and all were ok, but they have been known to crack.
      Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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      • Graham
        S2Forum Extremist
        • Jul 2003
        • 1622
        • Home: United Kingdom Current: Australia

        #4
        Sorry my pc is fried, i tried to sort the pictures but my pc wont let me edit anything, and flashes up errors. PM sent
        Graham
        Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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        • porkkis
          S2Forum Extremist
          • Aug 2003
          • 1994
          • Country: Finland

          #5
          I'd replace the valve guides for the new valves and would also have all of the exhaust guides replaced and full valve job done. This way it's like new again.
          -

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