oil pump drive

[quattro-nick]

Mal I'm at this same problem after getting my diesel crank back from nitriding. Thoughts were a new drive ring installed correctly would do, but to spin the drive freely by hand on the crank gave me the fear
What about a grub screw, drive ring drilled, tapped and a dimple on the crank ?

i once tried to drill through the drive gear, but the material was too hard

[malncol]

yes don't want to open up the wallet for rebuild just yet, thing is the drive is very thin and a keyway may be more of a problem if the ring/drive splits .If I was building from scratch maybe a dowel through drive into crank??? I don't really know whats best iam just trying to get out of it as easy as I can

[malncol]

sorry didn't see last post , so drilling/dowel is out!!
stupid post tools aren't working

[inne3quattro]

Dry sump and have done with it ! You know you want to. Photos and contact numbers if needed.

[diesel des]

What sorta money is it to dry sump one?

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[andy10v]

What sorta money is it to dry sump one?

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Dahlback is 4280 euro + you need to a buy tank etc

http://www.dahlbackracing.se/SearchP...2&LanguageID=1

Prospeed do sump/blank

http://prospeed.bg/en/products/4097/0/p:3

Aelred did one with Pace, Jeffer makes some parts I think.

Sump, front adapter plate, scavenge pumps, pressure pump, tank, lines and other bits is going to be a couple of thousand even doing it "cheap"?

[andy10v]

yes don't want to open up the wallet for rebuild just yet, thing is the drive is very thin and a keyway may be more of a problem if the ring/drive splits .If I was building from scratch maybe a dowel through drive into crank??? I don't really know whats best iam just trying to get out of it as easy as I can

What would it cost you to strip it down to remove the crank? Would it not be good to inspect the bearings as you had an oil issue? If everything is ok would you not just be out a gasket kit and time?

Hammer is making custom oil pump bits.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74915&page=20

If you get a custom drive made are you going to heat it and just push it on the crank?

[diesel des]

Dahlback is 4280 euro + you need to a buy tank etc

http://www.dahlbackracing.se/SearchP...2&LanguageID=1

Prospeed do sump/blank

http://prospeed.bg/en/products/4097/0/p:3

Aelred did one with Pace, Jeffer makes some parts I think.

Sump, front adapter plate, scavenge pumps, pressure pump, tank, lines and other bits is going to be a couple of thousand even doing it "cheap"?

Ok thanks. I would like to have one but a bit much for me at the moment. At 2 k it would be just about be viable for my urq. ...

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[malncol]

there are a few reasons for not doing a rebuild now, yes its had a oil issue but at basic idle and was caught very early so no harm done. The rally season is fast approaching so there's a time frame as parts need to come from overseas and my engine builder who I trust as I'am not that smart has said its not needed .Its a risk i'am willing to take (may bite me on the butt later) as for dry sump with the ozzie dollar at the moment to much and I will be reducing the RPM limit even more so I don't think its needed

[macspring]

Just read the thread through in one go, I know nothing, but would say that you should be ok with just having a tighter undersize drive ring made for the oil pump to fit your ever so slightly undersized crank ?

Did you have to change the size of the bearing shells after the crank was treated ?

I presume the sump is baffled more than standard ?

Best of luck.

[andy10v]

Sounds like getting a new interference fit drive made is the simplest way forward then.

[malncol]

thanks andy10v for your input and the input of the others, as stated iam not going to claim that I know engines when I don't . that's why I like to bounce these problems off the members too see what outcomes/ideas appear. Yes hopefully a new drive ring will do the trick , it would be nice to know what the inter fit should actually be hopefully around 8 thou is what we are aiming for
I think the bearings were STD when it was build and no the sump is still oem but the motec data shows good op readings at all times
thanks
mal

[andy10v]

There are tables and calculations for interference fit,

eg

Interference fit (keyless)

For high-horsepower/kW and high-speed applications, ANSI/AGMA 9003-B08 or equivalent fits (straight and tapered) are commonly used. The interference for keyless fits needs to be adequate to withstand expected normal and transient loads. Common keyless interference fits range from 0.0015 in/in (mm/mm) to 0.0020 in/in (mm/mm). The Brinell hardness of the hub material is a significant factor in keyless coupling fit. Typical fits for various Brinell hardness (BH) steels are: 0.00175 in/in (mm/mm) for 250 BH, 0.0025 in/in (mm/mm) for 300 BH and 0.0030 in/in (mm/mm) for 330 BH.

I would probably do some reading and find an accepted fit, or just ask your engine builder/machinist.

[malncol]

lastest is that my engine builder has made a new drive wider that the old one which meant that he had to disassemble the pump and machine down the other part of the drive if that makes sense
in doing so he has found a small piece of metal in the pump, which could only have come through the pickup (1 in a million) or be in the pump from new?? it was a 034 high volume pump and I seem to remember someone talking about foreign bits in new pumps???or maybe piece of relief valve?
thanks
mal

[malncol]

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