9a vs ACE 2,016v

[fish]

Can i fit a distributor from a 9a to my competition ACE engine straight on?

Cheers

Kris

[UrS4boy]

Can i fit a distributor from a 9a to my competition ACE engine straight on? Cheers Kris

ACE Distributor = 053905237AX. No crosses to VW according to my new Russian parts girlfriend, Ekaterina. Note the drive end. Two offset lugs. Very much like the distributor on my ABH V8.



In fact, the ACE distributor cap, 077905207, is the same as my ABH V8.



9A Distributor = 051905237X No crosses to Audi according to my new Russian parts girlfriend, Ekaterina. However, looks very much the same. Drive lugs look very very similar. Distributor cap is different because of the transverse engine installation. Would be worth a trial. Differences might be trivial.

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES276852/



Drive end:

[fish]

Thank UrS4Boy, wizard of knowlege! The cap on the ACE dizzy is Held on with 2 screws, the cap on 9A is Held on with clips...

[UrS4boy]

Distributor Hall Sender Replacement DIY

Thank UrS4Boy, wizard of knowledge! The cap on the ACE dizzy is Held on with 2 screws, the cap on 9A is Held on with clips...

Good point. That is likely the main physical difference. But if you look at the photos I posted, both distributors are set up for the clips (and maybe the bolt on, at least after a little drilling and tapping).

My ABH V8 cap is bolt on. The ACE cap points the wires straight up, the 9A, out the end.

BTW, if your issue is the Hall sender inside, I did this DIY for early AAN, 7A and 3B distributors but it likely applies to the 9A and ACE distributors (as well as my V8).

http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheHallSenderInA7A3BandEarlyAANDistributor.pdf

[fish]

Good point. That is likely the main physical difference. But if you look at the photos I posted, both distributors are set up for the clips (and maybe the bolt on, at least after a little drilling and tapping).

My ABH V8 cap is bolt on. The ACE cap points the wires straight up, the 9A, out the end.

BTW, if your issue is the Hall sender inside, I did this DIY for early AAN, 7A and 3B distributors but it likely applies to the 9A and ACE distributors (as well as my V8).

http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheHallSenderInA7A3BandEarlyAANDistributor.pdf

You are right. Problem is, i couldnt get hold of the 9a dizzy i thought a mate had as it was gone.

The issue i have is that my competition wouldnt start one day after work. Tried an tried again then all of a Sudden it started up and ran fine. Odd i thought. Was then normal for a few days, then yesterday nothing.. I ran it on the starter so many times it almost ran out of power. I pulled 1st cylinders HT lead and put a spare plug in to see if it had spark and it did not. My brother came tow me home, so once we were Rolling i put it in second gear and let the clutch up, pulled it maybe 5 meters and boom, ifred up and ran sweet as a nut. Drove home, put it in the garage, pullade cap of and the contactpoints looked awful, rotor arm looked OK. Cleaned everything up and went for a test drive, no issues. Put her back in the garage, (which is warm, dry and heated) and thought no more of it. This morning NOTHING. Would not start,I pinned it down to damp weather and thought there might be a crack in the dizzy cap. Ordered a new one (getting it tomorrow) but could not see anything odd other than burnes contact pionts which are now Cleaned. Hallsensor i checked with a 9v battery and a LED and the LED flashes when i turn the key so i guess it's working. I tried a coil from a Volvo 740 but used my ignition module but nothing at all. So, next guess is the module but havent got a spare. Is this part the same as any other Audi? Its a bosch with a three pin plug on.


Cheers, Kris

[UrS4boy]

The ACE ignition coil/control module unit is a 893905105E. This was used for the ACE and 6A four cylinders (after VIN 8A-M-089934)) as well as the ABH and AEC V8s in the C4 UrS4s and UrS6s.

Should look something like this:



9A VW engines and 6A Audi engines (to VIN 8A-M-089933) used a 357905115 coil and transistor like this one:



My head hurts now.

[fish]

You are marvelous! I Wonder if the control unit itself could be replaced with a different one or are they not inteechangable? IE i found one off a Audi 100 2,3 5cyl or so..

[UrS4boy]

You are marvelous! I Wonder if the control unit itself could be replaced with a different one or are they not inteechangable? IE i found one off a Audi 100 2,3 5cyl or so..

If you provide more details regarding the year of the 2.3L 5 cyl, I might be able to help more.

[fish]

Well, i have now put the new cap and rotorarm on it, no difference. Then i borrowed a coil and controlmodule that looks like the black and white picture you posted, it is from a 2,3 100. Dont know the year im afraid. Did not help. So now i am on the Hunt for a s4/6 coil an contolunit but with no luck anywhere near here :/ tested the hall sensor again with the battery/led set up and it seems OK anyway. Any more tips and trix up your sleeve Dave?

[fish]

I have now sourced three of the right coil/module setups. All from AEC V8 S6. They are at a breakers yard "local" to me (80 Miles away) i have a mate that works there so i will see what he can do. IF none of them helps, what is the next step for me?

[fish]

Can i somehow meassure the coil with a multimeter to rulle out the ignition control unit? I turned the key on and just tested between the two terminals on it but nothing, pulled the plug off the control unit and tested the plug itself and there is power to it anyway. I am not very Akilles when it comes to electrical, so just treating my way forward. Any help appreciated as this for now is my only car...

[newsh]

Maybe it's the ignition switch?

[UrS4boy]

.. pulled the plug off the control unit and tested the plug itself and there is power to it anyway. I am not very Akilles when it comes to electrical, so just treating my way forward. Any help appreciated as this for now is my only car...

There are three wires in that plug:

1. Trigger wire from the ECU (position 2, in the middle)
2. 12V power, switched, through the "15" switched power circuit (position 1, outer end)
3. Ground (position 3, the other outer end)

This diagram is from a 3B but should be similar ACE sport. Peel back the rubber boot on the harness connector to find the right colours

1. Trigger signal = green/white (difficult to check without oscilliscope)
2. 12V power = black (this one you can check easily for 12V with the ignition ON)
3. Ground = brown/red (check for continuity to ground)



REFERENCE: Pgs. 6 and 3 of 17 in http://12v.org/urs/AudiS23BMotronicWiringSchmatics.pdf

[fish]

Maybe it's the ignition switch?

I have thought about that to, if you are refering to the backplate of the ignition barrel. I tried wiggeling the key while turning it but nothing.

[fish]

There are three wires in that plug:

1. Trigger wire from the ECU (position 2, in the middle)
2. 12V power, switched, through the "15" switched power circuit (position 1, outer end)
3. Ground (position 3, the other outer end)

This diagram is from a 3B but should be similar ACE sport. Peel back the rubber boot on the harness connector to find the right colours

1. Trigger signal = green/white (difficult to check without oscilliscope)
2. 12V power = black (this one you can check easily for 12V with the ignition ON)
3. Ground = brown/red (check for continuity to ground)



REFERENCE: Pgs. 6 and 3 of 17 in http://12v.org/urs/AudiS23BMotronicWiringSchmatics.pdf

Thanks once again mate, i will look into this tomorrow. I dont have an oscillioscope, but at least i can check if the power and ground are OK. The trigger signal, would that come from the hall sensor?