Crank pulley damper question

[RichLV]

Hello and merry Christmas to all!

Got a question. I'm disassembling the whole front portion of the car to get out my old block. Was looking at the front pulley and remembered that AAN pulley had the damn washer between it and the belt pulley.

So right now on my old 3B block I have pulley which ends with the B letter, which, by part number, means that it is from the AAR (2.3). I cannot fit it to the new block because it is not in good condition. So the AAN pulley ends with the J letter and needs the "diamond" washer which for a washer costs a fortune. Is it possible to fit a good pulley from 2.3 AAR to my AAN so that I avoid the purchase of the washer? Or is it better that I stick to the AAN pulley?

Thanks!

[orignalS60]

According to Issam and others the
damper is balanced with the internals
of your engine from the factory. So
if you were to fit a different pulley than
what was installed from Audi you would
have to rebalance your rotating assembly
with the new pulley. I'd like to hear further
input though.

[RichLV]

I already assembled the block, so no balancing at this point. I guess I'll stick with the AAN then, at least the balancing will be similar (maybe a bit off though).

[RichLV]

By the way, the 2.5 TDi AEL also has a washer, and it is a lot cheaper than the AAN one.
AAN - 034105193
AEL - 074105193

Has anyone tried to fit the AEL washer? It's also more common and is easily source-able.

[sailaz]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...t=74292&page=2

[RichLV]

So if I stack lots of TDi washers I'm good right?

[UrS4boy]

20V Inline-5 Vibration Damper/Harmonic Balancer Info

20V Inline-5 Vibration Damper/Harmonic Balancer Info:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/157639.phtml

[RichLV]

Got lucky and bought a C damper, so no washer needed. Still, the dude who sold it to me said that I should still fit the narrow diesel washer, his pulley was constantly coming loose without it. Any thoughts on this?

[UrS4boy]

Got lucky and bought a C damper, so no washer needed. Still, the dude who sold it to me said that I should still fit the narrow diesel washer, his pulley was constantly coming loose without it. Any thoughts on this?

AFAIK the issue with the 251J needing the washer was to move it out away from the engine so the serpentine belt didn't rub on anything. Nothing to do with tight/loose.

Boxflares (Steve M) once posted:

"It turns out that there might have been as many as 3 different part numbers used on S-cars, and the latest rev (-J) is physically different and won't just bolt up to most S-cars. The early parts (054-105-251-C and -H) both had a longer snout. These were superseded in 1996 by the current part, 054-105-251-J. Since per KATE the -J part didn't come out until October of 1996, ALL US-spec S-cars, including the 1995.5s, should have the -C or -H part. The only exceptions might be some Canadian 97's, since October of 96 is part way into the 1997 model year. The problem is the -J part has a shorter snout and requires a washer/spacer (034-105-193) to fit correctly. The washer isn't cheap (~$65 is the cheapest price I found on line) but without it the -J pulley will most likely bind on your oil pump- not good. There is an alternate part number (034 105 193) shown in KATE, but it's not clear whether that would or wouldn't require the same washer."

[RichLV]

AFAIK the issue with the 251J needing the washer was to move it out away from the engine so the serpentine belt didn't rub on anything. Nothing to do with tight/loose.

Boxflares (Steve M) once posted:

"It turns out that there might have been as many as 3 different part numbers used on S-cars, and the latest rev (-J) is physically different and won't just bolt up to most S-cars. The early parts (054-105-251-C and -H) both had a longer snout. These were superseded in 1996 by the current part, 054-105-251-J. Since per KATE the -J part didn't come out until October of 1996, ALL US-spec S-cars, including the 1995.5s, should have the -C or -H part. The only exceptions might be some Canadian 97's, since October of 96 is part way into the 1997 model year. The problem is the -J part has a shorter snout and requires a washer/spacer (034-105-193) to fit correctly. The washer isn't cheap (~$65 is the cheapest price I found on line) but without it the -J pulley will most likely bind on your oil pump- not good. There is an alternate part number (034 105 193) shown in KATE, but it's not clear whether that would or wouldn't require the same washer."

The length issue is understandable, but why opt for the shorter snout + washer as a replacement design? That's what's interesting. The thread posted above does point to some facts about pulley slippage.

[newsh]

Yes, the "diamond coated" washer has an abrasive surface to combat slippage.

That's what I've read anyway

[RichLV]

Yes, the "diamond coated" washer has an abrasive surface to combat slippage.

That's what I've read anyway

I'm not sure from a physical standpoint how does the slippage occur if the pulley is bolted to the timing belt pulley and both are bolted to the crank. Timing pulley is secured from slipping with the keyway (if it's intact of course) and the damper is bolted to the timing pulley. How does the slippage occur?

[newsh]

The keyway has no strength and can break off. Unless you fit a billet pulley.

[RichLV]

That's exactly what I'll do.


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[PRY4SNO]

Here you go:

http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1776