WGFV is it wrong?

[martin richards]

Thanks, will do.

[newsh]

My post should have read "12 volts across it should make it click" Dont know what happened there :-/ If you do test it with a car battery its probably a good idea to use an inline fuse of some sort, or a very thin bit of wire, to avoid any impromtu arc welding

Good luck

[martin richards]

Have just found the blink code page. got it saved shall try tomorrow. 2 Q's. Do i have to make a MIL circuit first before i try to get blink codes from fuse box, or does this curcuit firstly tell me their is a problem, then i need to use a suitible led/lamp to pull blink codes. Or does the MIL circuit blink?, or illuminate to tell of a problem that you then need to go to fuse box and so on.....??? Can i just pull blink codes without making a MIL circuit?
Thanks
martin.

[S2central.net]

You can pull blink codes with any naff little 12V bulb or LED.

The blurb on the MIL circuit is about locating such a bulb permanently in the cluster so that you get notified of any major faults by the ECU.

[martin richards]

But, this dos'nt blink though does it, It will light up telling me their is a fault. I still need to pull blink codes to find what has gone wrong?. I will put in a curcuit this afternoon, because its usefull. Once the MIL has lit up, will pulling thye Motor fuse clear it?

[Uukrul]

But, this dos'nt blink though does it, It will light up telling me their is a fault. I still need to pull blink codes to find what has gone wrong?. I will put in a curcuit this afternoon, because its usefull. Once the MIL has lit up, will pulling thye Motor fuse clear it?

The trick with fuse works only for older 10v turbo.

If you have 3B Motronic - you should connect L-line to ground for 4 seconds. The check engine (MIL) will blink out first error code like described in s2central/sjmautotechnik/etc.

If you have ABY/AAN - you can still use the blink codes, BUT originaly diagnostic output wire is missing in the ECU plug, so you must add it yourself.

How to locate L-line wire: usualy it is the yellow wire in the brown diagnostic connector. Ground is the brown wire in the black diagostic connector. Connect these 2 wires together (MIL should light up), wait 4s, disconnect...

[martin richards]

Now i'm lost!! 10v turbo, is that not the older (s1) Quattro turbo cars, not any of the S2 cars coupe, saloon or Estate? Getting confusing, i'm probably in this sorry state of affairs from my own work. All i can say is 2 people own this type of car 1) Experience Mechanics and 2) Rich people, I'm neither. I shall take to a dealer to pull codes. Adding a MIL curcuit looks strait forward, but adding wires to my fuse box!! Beyound me. Thanks all.
Martin.

[S2central.net]

OMG - don't let other confuse you on this - just get a wee 12V bulb and short piece of stiff wire. Follow the blink code directions on S2 central...

[Uukrul]

Now i'm lost!! 10v turbo, is that not the older (s1) Quattro turbo cars, not any of the S2 cars coupe, saloon or Estate? Getting confusing, i'm probably in this sorry state of affairs from my own work. All i can say is 2 people own this type of car 1) Experience Mechanics and 2) Rich people, I'm neither. I shall take to a dealer to pull codes. Adding a MIL curcuit looks strait forward, but adding wires to my fuse box!! Beyound me. Thanks all.
Martin.

3) ask Experienced Mechanic to install the wires and push-button

[S2central.net]

OR alternatively read my previous post for cryin out loud................

[martin richards]

Choice 3! The ECU fault codes: 0544 Max charge air pressure exceeded.
00513 Engine speed signal sender intermitent.
The latter has been their a while- and will fix.

Thanks. Martin

[S2central.net]

0544 is caused by a few things -

1. Excess (unmetered) air getting into the system. This can be caused by
a) Split turbo or PCV hose
b) Faulty/split WGFV
c) Split WG diaphragm
d) Split diaphragm inside TBV
e) Split narrow guage hose to TBV, ECU or auxiliary device

2. Incorrectly adjusted WG spring that prevents ECU keeping boost within limits

3. Faulty MAF

00513 sounds like the CMP going south - get it changed sooner rather than later. A total failure of this part means your car will crank all day on the starter but never spark into life.


Cheers,

Paul

[martin richards]

Thanks Paul. 2 x abbreviations-CMP and TBV?
Would i have needed to have played with WG spring for that to be wrong as the cover is still rusty? Could a faulty dump valve cause this problem? as this makes a strange noise, just as you back of the throttle and before it dumps? The shutting down has all come about from fitting a boost gauge. firstly and wrongly to the pipe to the top of dump valve then to the correct place as shown on forum(pipe to ECU) have disconnected today when codes were cleared but problem persited.
Will remove all pipes and check. How can i check MAF and WGFV.

[audiman]

Does it make a chattering type of noise?? Is so then bin it as its fooked and fit the newer S3 version ending in 710N

[S2central.net]

CMP = camshaft position sensor, aka the Hall Effect sensor which lives near the camshaft pulley on the ABY.

TBV = throttle bypass valve, aka the 'dump' valve, which isn't quite an accurate term on the S2.

You can test the TBV by removing it, NOTING FIRST HOW IT IS FITTED, and blowing air with your gub round one the two large pipes. No air should flow, until you apply suction to the wee control hose. Its an intimate job for two people unless you have some air/vacuum equipment.

TBV failure is VERY common. Its a cheap part and a common upgrade is to get the TBV from the S3 (ess THREE) as its a bit stronger - part number ends 710N from memory.

To test the WGFV you need to do remove it, again carefully noting its position, then blow air into the hose which connects to the turbo housing. That air should only come out of the connection to the WG. Then apply 12V to the WGFV, blow in the hose which connects to the MAF hose, and confirm that the air only comes out of the connection to the WG.

Strooth its quicker to do than it is to type. I really MUST get round to writing a proper FAQ on this schtuff at S2 central. Its incredible how little is known about these simple basic tests (and I'm including some so called professional mechanics and garages) that can verify basic health of these devices. It's not rocket science !

Paul