Audi s2 3b won't start PLEASE HELP

[Stealthacq]

Well just an update auto electronic have come back as the ecu been beyond repair. But reading between the lines they said they could not get anything out of it or have the software to flash it.
Sounds a load of tripe when you pay £50+vat to just look at it.
Now bought a remanufacture one from Atp electronics for 400 and I get back 65 for my old one.
Now am worried if there's a short in the loom I don't want it to blow the new ecu??

[twoqu]

Well you can't flash these ecu's! The chips have to be removed physically to reprogram the chips if that was even necessary. So how likely is it that they have tested it? Its 25 year old technology.
The ecu is pretty robust I would say and one of the last things to consider replacing when there are issues. Its more likely to be even a mechanical issue as highlighted in that PICO thread if not a sensor.
You don't appear to have tried communicating with the ecu with VCDS/VAGCOM or tried the output tests which might have thrown a clue up or proved things work.
Not saying the ecu hasn't died a death but its certaintly worthwhile exhausting/eliminating as much as possible before condemming the ecu as the culprit.
Do you know if the car run before or was any work done prior to the non start. Might be worth posting what part of the country you are in just in case somebody is close enough to even run VCDS on it for you.

[Stealthacq]

The car came to me as a non runner
Also the ecu has scrap yard yellow writing on it 'audi s2 3b'
So it has thrown alarm bells
I did use a snap on diagnostic system and it didn't have any faults other than the speed sensor but I have Herd it will throw a code if it does not start.
I should of tried to do the output test but I thought I may as well get the ball rolling with getting the ecu looked at.
And this was the the result.
Atp did agree to give me a diagnosis of the fault on my original ecu so I can ensure I don't blow this one up.
I understand its usually moving parts that go ie: relays
Been an electrician I know a bit about electronics.
Cheers for the help

[twoqu]

What is the actual ecu part number that you have? Does the ecu look like its been opened, i.e. have the casing tabs been prised opened?
I can see that you have been thorough but I guess the point I was trying to make is that a mechanical issue can cause a head scratching non start.

[Stealthacq]

Hiya the part number are
895 907 404 BA
0261 200 484
I didn't check the seals on the ecu.
Will it be better for me to keep the original one instead of getting the £65?

[twoqu]

That is the correct p/n for the 3B. Just making sure it wasn't another variant.
To be honest if you are satisfied the ecu has died then you might be able to source a working one on here via a wanted add for less than what ATP charge. There is even a supposedly new one for just a bit more money if you google the p/n.
Am I take it that you didn't use ATP to test the ecu. I expect thay would want you old ecu as they are not particularly common.
Obviously a substitution of a known good one would prove it one way or the other but its a big ask in this day and age!

[Stealthacq]

I could get one for 300 but I thought a re manufactured one with 12 months warranty would be good and it's practicaly new. For £335 its not bad.
I will still ask for how much it cost for just a diagnosis but no dought the cost won't be feasible
Al check all the pinouts to other pinouts aren't shorting to any others tomorrow just so I know it's right before I plug her in.
Fingers crossed she sticks up tomorrow night!

[Stealthacq]

Well new ecu today I was worried throwing voltage down and frying some electronics.
It tried to fire and it was a solid light on one injector on start up and it has made an improvement and tried to start. It was a solid light from cranking to ignition off.
On the original wiring.
But when I wired it to the diagram shown to me above just a light on start up and goes off to turning ignition off and a light again and did not start.
PLEASE check the 47/48/49 pinouts am sure the existing wiring is right for the 3b!
If I check for shorts?
Worried to blow this ecu
Please help

[220bhp]

Have you checked that the distributer is turning correctly. The drive from the cam is plastic, and they break.
keyway on the crank sprocket is a known failure on the I5 .It can fail enough to alter the timing.

[Stealthacq]

I think it's a timing issue. The (0) threw the bell housing is bank on but the fly wheel one is slightly out and the cam mark is off half a tooth. But it's impossible to get them all bank on.
Unless the belt has stretch I get just over half a turn on the longest part.

[Pirvu Eugen]

is not timing!!!! Iff you have power to the fuel pump and injectors... timing is ok!
You have fuel pressure?
Not flow.....pressure

[Stealthacq]

Hiya yes mate the distributor is turning OK.
Thing is when I get the flywheel timing mark bang on the (0) the pulley mark is slightly out and the cam timing is half a tooth and carnt get it bang on.
The belt could of stretched. I get just over half a turn on the longest part.
I have re Al lined the distributor too (g 40)
I have gone off the flywheel mark and timed the g40 up

[Stealthacq]

I see there is fuel. As I took off the fuel line as I cranked and did get quite a lot of fuel

[Stealthacq]

This 12v led noide lamp I made in the injectors it should blink every 4th stroke and I guess it should be bright or is it really instantaneous?

[Stealthacq]

How do I check fuel pressure?