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Boost control via wastegate, with out taking it apart....
My brain just cant quite sort the measuement thing out either, so i set mine up on air pressure down the pipe from the WGCFV. Opens at 0.6 bar or about 9psi.
Looking at the picture you have posted then i presume you are looking at increasing boost? Well if you are the i think the correct way to do it is to get it re-mapped by either Paul or Mihnea! They alter the duty cycle to the WCGFV from the ECU allowing more boost to be generated in accordance with other readings and settings from the ECU! (I think!)
Or if your not doing that at all! then just ignore me cos iam quite good at babbling crap!!!!
Money is everything! Second to Power of course!!! But money breeds power??
@ Josh: this is bull*****, nothing can replace a proper chip, chip power only!
More seriously, this WG measurement stuff is sooooooooo empyrical that it really makes no sense to me.
The proper setting for a WG spring is when the ECU doesn't try to pull boost back due to it being higher than what's programmed in the chip, period. Everything else could be correct on one car and totally wrong on another one, not 2 WG springs are the same, not 2 intake tracts leak the same amount of air (there's always a bit escaping) and so on, so just read that: the most optimal setting is when the boost gauge's needle doesn't come back to less than what the boost is supposed to be, no matter what it's actually supposed to be.
The correct way of measuring a spring's depth is from above with a matchstick or caliper gauge, wether you like to remove the anti-tamper cover from the WG cap or not.
HTH,
Mihnea
'98 Silver Grey 2.7T S4, dual 2.75" turbo back exhaust with no cats, FMIC, BIG injectors, 10 Bar motorsport fuel pump, modded RS4 turbos, tubular exhaust manifolds, custom intakes, RS4 MAF, Bilstein PSS9, H&R ARBs, 19" BBS CH, custom remap, 511 BHP/505ft-lbs
It looks like that valve shares the boost pressure between the 2 sides of the WG diaphragm, quite neat.
Mihnea, that's interesting, as I am just at the stage of re-adjusting my WGspring, having backed it right off to try and stop the overboost cutout syndrome.. Incidentally, what is the rough measurement for the spring setting on a 3b, and would this change with an aftermarket exhaust and de-cat?
uuuuuuuh, I'd say to test 8mm to the top of the hex screw... seems about right for a stock 3B setting, the decatting stuff shouldn't make too big of a difference on a 3B anyway...
Mihnea
'98 Silver Grey 2.7T S4, dual 2.75" turbo back exhaust with no cats, FMIC, BIG injectors, 10 Bar motorsport fuel pump, modded RS4 turbos, tubular exhaust manifolds, custom intakes, RS4 MAF, Bilstein PSS9, H&R ARBs, 19" BBS CH, custom remap, 511 BHP/505ft-lbs
Hmmm, so 15mm could be a bit much then, seems to work ok though. Untill I removed the cap and messed with it this was a brand new WG.
What would be the symptoms of an overtightened spring on the boost pressure seen on the gauge?
My friend has a bleeder system in place of a harder WG spring. It adds a bit of pressure to the WG upper input.
Should be easy to set up too. Just unplug the WGFV and turn the bleeder as long as basic pressure is at the wanted value.
He has a MTM chip that should be accompanied by a slight WG adjustment.
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