The Afterrun Pump - Part numbers and Suppliers

[CoupeWannabeS2]

Thanks for all the help from everyone. Much appreciated.

[pastures16]

i ran without one for just under a year and all was fine as long as you let the engine tickover a few mins longer than normal after a spirited run

[CoupeWannabeS2]

Thought I would post a quick update incase there are others who need an after run pump.

Made it to GSF, and the pump they sold me does look like a better piece of kit than the original. As previously mentioned by someone, it has a slightly different electrical connection, but nothing that a stanley knife cant sort out (just need to trim some pastic off here and there).

Pump now fitted, and the car works again. Happy days.

So thanks again for the assistance everyone, no doubt I saved a fortune by doing the work myself - and gained a good bit of satisfaction.

[Matt_D]

Hi, Is this fairly easy to fit ?

I've got to do mine as mine is leaking very slightly, i've had a look and it looks fairly simple to do but can i ask how is the pump held on ?

[Dpicariello]

Pump is held on with a bracket that is attached to the block by 2 allen bolts. They're fairly easy to undo and located with the heads pointing towards the back of the car. I haven't got a pic to hand, sorry.
Undo the jubilee clips connecting the hoses, then the elxctrical connection and it should come away.
I haven't changed the pump myself, just had it out when changing my rad as I didn't know what it was.

[Matt_D]

Nice one, thanks

[CoupeWannabeS2]

Matt,

When I changed the pump, I didnt take the bracket off. Just removed the coolant pipes and the electrical connector. Then slide the pump out of the the two large rubber hoops that hold it in place.

It is a fairly easy job once you get under the bonnet. Good luck with it.

[Matt_D]

Cheers chaps for the info, i've sorted mine using the GSF pump, yes you do have to hack at the connector slightly as its bigger but i now have a working pump

Oh and no wonder my old one did'nt work:

[johne]

I was worried that my pump wasn't working on my car so I checked out the circuit including the temp. sensor which is on the water manifold underneath the inlet manifold. Everything was as it should so I put a monitor on the switch and found that even after driving as hard as I could in the summer, the water temp. never got hot enough to trip the switch. so my car at least, it wouldn't matter if the pump wasn't there.
I also wonder if having the pump contributes to the very long warm-up time for my ABY engine as it is effectively another uncontrolled bypass around the thermostat?

[s2dude]

I was worried that my pump wasn't working on my car so I checked out the circuit including the temp. sensor which is on the water manifold underneath the inlet manifold. Everything was as it should so I put a monitor on the switch and found that even after driving as hard as I could in the summer, the water temp. never got hot enough to trip the switch. so my car at least, it wouldn't matter if the pump wasn't there.
I also wonder if having the pump contributes to the very long warm-up time for my ABY engine as it is effectively another uncontrolled bypass around the thermostat?

You need to replace your thermostat

[Fat Audi 80]

I was worried that my pump wasn't working on my car so I checked out the circuit including the temp. sensor which is on the water manifold underneath the inlet manifold. Everything was as it should so I put a monitor on the switch and found that even after driving as hard as I could in the summer, the water temp. never got hot enough to trip the switch. so my car at least, it wouldn't matter if the pump wasn't there.
I also wonder if having the pump contributes to the very long warm-up time for my ABY engine as it is effectively another uncontrolled bypass around the thermostat?

I have never had my pump on either and I suspect it is because my car never gets hot enough. My fan only ever runs on speed 2 (speed 1 is slow and only comes on with the AC in my ABY car). The reason I know this is I took the relay out for speed 2 to test in my other Audi and forgot to put it back in. When speed 3 kicked in in traffic it nearly stalled the bloody engine with its starting current draw! It is an absolute beast that I had never heard before.

If your car just uses speed 2 at 90 ish deg C then I suspect the after run pump is never triggered.

Cheers,

Steve.

[s2dude]

I have never had my pump on either and I suspect it is because my car never gets hot enough. My fan only ever runs on speed 2 (speed 1 is slow and only comes on with the AC in my ABY car). The reason I know this is I took the relay out for speed 2 to test in my other Audi and forgot to put it back in. When speed 3 kicked in in traffic it nearly stalled the bloody engine with its starting current draw! It is an absolute beast that I had never heard before.

If your car just uses speed 2 at 90 ish deg C then I suspect the after run pump is never triggered.

Cheers,

Steve.

Hmmm... that sounds very Un OEM like

Will have to get the councours judges to look into that one at the next show

[Fat Audi 80]

Thanks!

[Fat Audi 80]

Following on from my last post here are the pics of the modifications required to fit a GSF Part number 17072 to an ABY engined S2:

In my opinion the new pump for GSF looks better quality. It is screwed together rather than a press fit and the pump section is a little bigger. (Although the motor looks a bit shorter)

The pics are:

The two pumps side by side. (Guess which is the new one!)

Then a before and after shot of the modification required to the 2 pin connector. When you get the pump you will notice that although it is also a 2 pin connector, the connectors are tiny bit further apart. I was not convinced the pins on the pump would fit into the socket in the engine bay. So, I gently used a flat blade screwdriver to "tease" the pins a little closer together.

Also, there are two polarity ridges on the new pump connector casing. These need to be removed completely. I started with a stanley knife, but soon changed to a junior hacksaw as I could see some blood being spilt.

Once the ridges are off, the pump could be now connected either way round. However "note" the + and - engraved on the pump and compare with the old one, and you should be fine. I did one trial fit, switched on the ignition and heard the pump buzz.

Re fitting is the reverse of removal....

[s2driveruk]

just completed this tonight and for info the latest version of the pump no longer has the double locationg lugs on one side of the connector to be filed off. Basically just need to tease the connector pins together a bit and then a nice solid click.....turn on the ignition and should then be able to hear the 5 second cycle

Cheers
David