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  • UrS6 Heater is useless

    Last year i took the S6 off the road over winter as i do most years. One of the jobs i did was a cambelt change. As a precaution i changed the water pump with one i ordered by parn number from GSF.

    Ever since i did that the heater has been rubish unless the car is over 4500rpm
    Is there a slightly different pump that i could have ordered my mistake? Or is it more likely to be something else that failed at the same time as a coincidence?

    The engine is still warming up as normal.

  • #2
    I had this too on my S4, its really not very useful for this time of the year..

    Apparently the heater matrix is self bleeding so it shouldn't be that.

    God luck..
    91 S2 coupé - RIP
    98 S8 - Luxury barge

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    • #3
      Originally posted by s2_bo View Post
      I had this too on my S4, its really not very useful for this time of the year..

      Apparently the heater matrix is self bleeding so it shouldn't be that.

      God luck..
      I've got the same problem with mine. Had it last year and got it fixed (needed new control flap motor i think). This winter it's back again! Going to pull climate control codes and see if anything is amiss.

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      • #4
        No the heater is not self bleeding, under the plastic rain cover by the windscreen where the wiper motor is left hand side of the engine bay as you look at you will see the 2 pipes that go through the bulkhead, one or both will have a bleed screw on it, bleed the heater that way with the heater full on and engine running, you may need to top the coolant afterwards. If the heater is full of air you may need to give it a couple of goes, revving the engine a bit helps also to pump the coolant round.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by s2_bo View Post
          I had this too on my S4, its really not very useful for this time of the year..

          Apparently the heater matrix is self bleeding so it shouldn't be that.

          God luck..
          Thanks Bo,

          Not that bothered that the heater is crap, just concerned that the new pump isn't feeding the rest of the engine as it should.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by iain1067 View Post
            No the heater is not self bleeding, under the plastic rain cover by the windscreen where the wiper motor is left hand side of the engine bay as you look at you will see the 2 pipes that go through the bulkhead, one or both will have a bleed screw on it, bleed the heater that way with the heater full on and engine running, you may need to top the coolant afterwards. If the heater is full of air you may need to give it a couple of goes, revving the engine a bit helps also to pump the coolant round.
            Thanks, i did do this after i filled it, maybe i need to give it another go. . . .

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            • #7
              mine in crap too , code 53 is the coolant temperature. It displays this as 85, does that mean 8.5 or 85?
              Shane

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              • #8
                Originally posted by s2_wot View Post
                mine in crap too , code 53 is the coolant temperature. It displays this as 85, does that mean 8.5 or 85?
                I believe this is the reading in deg C of the engine coolant. It just worries me that mine was like being baked alive untill i did the pump Thats what you get for trying the do the job 'right'

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                • #9
                  C4 UrS Climate control codes

                  Originally posted by s2_wot View Post
                  mine in crap too , code 53 is the coolant temperature. It displays this as 85, does that mean 8.5 or 85?
                  Channels 52 and 53 are CC the diagnositic codes:



                  The coolant temp in the heating system is measured on Channel 51 of the climate control. The heaters are not crap. We have the same heaters in Canada and it gets very cold here and people do not complain (well they complain, but it is in general about the cold, not specifically the Audi heater). Most likely you either have a diverter valve issue or the one of the air-directing flap valves is not moving correctly.

                  You need to pull the codes. Here is the how-to link:
                  http://12v.org/urs/Climate%20Control...0&%20Codes.pdf
                  Last edited by UrS4boy; 30 November 2010, 22:08.
                  RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                  94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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                  • #10
                    I have to say I completely mis-understood those codes the last time I looked through it.
                    I will try again tomorrow.
                    Shane

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                    • #11
                      mine isnt great at the moment,going to spend some time on it tomorrow sick of being freezing cold while driving around,on the otherhand my a6 tdi heater is amazing but being 2wd is useless in this snow

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by spink View Post
                        mine isnt great at the moment,going to spend some time on it tomorrow sick of being freezing cold while driving around,on the otherhand my a6 tdi heater is amazing but being 2wd is useless in this snow
                        Mine was brilliant until i did the pump, so i hope its not bled all the air out.

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                        • #13
                          Channel 52 I've got numbers 3 and 9 so
                          3. ECON mode selected
                          9. A/C Manually switched off

                          Channel 53 I've got numbers 5, 10, 15, 16, 17 + 20
                          5. Central flap in footwell / defrost outlet position. (Flashing rather than permanently lit)
                          10. Airflow flap open. (Flashing rather than permanently lit)
                          15. 1st speed of coolant fan on
                          16. Fan for in car temperature sensor
                          17. Fresh air / recirculation flap closed
                          20. A/C compressor on

                          Between checking channel 52 and 53 the settings of the system may have changed so I'll check them again.
                          Does any of the above point to a common failure from anybody's memory?
                          Does the A/C have to be on all the time?
                          Is there a best setting for the whole system while taking these readings?

                          Channel 51 is showing good temperature (80-87) whilst stationary.

                          Should I record all of the channels to try figure out what's wrong?

                          Any help appreciated.
                          Shane

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                          • #14
                            i've got a similar problem with the heater in the S6 - just won't get hot unless i really rev the car, or put the temp on HI

                            coolant level is fine and i've bled the pipes going into the bulkhead

                            have checked VAGCOM and not seeing any codes on the HVAC channel, but not entirely sure i'm checking it properly

                            anyone got any ideas what it could be? I'm taking the dash out anyway as part of an interior swap so might as well change the heater matrix at that point?

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                            • #15
                              Tom,

                              Did you get to change your matrix ?

                              Did it help ?

                              Was there another different item at fault ?

                              Thanks.

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