This is just a few tips if you wish to convert your audi S2 to non air con.
There are a number of advantages to not having an Air Con system in your S2. The engine bay looks tidier and is easier to clean, working around the engine becomes easier, you don’t have to worry about replacing expensive parts of the system when they fail, and of course, there is a considerable amount of weight to be saved. The pump, bracket, condenser, drier and pipes in the engine bay weigh around 15kg.
If you have already removed the part of the Air Con system which lies in the engine bay, you will notice you’re left with the inlet to the evapourator sticking through the bulkhead. If you wish to fully remove the system to further reduce weight and tidy your engine bay area then read ahead.
Behind the dashboard in the centre of the car you have the heater box which houses the heater core, and all the flaps to direct air flow (this unit is practically identical between Air Con and non Air Con cars) attached to the side of this is the Air Con box which houses the evapourator and the fan. This picture shows the 2 halves separated from each other, (heater box is the bit on the right)
So basically you need to take this out! to start off with you're going to have to remove the dash. This source by Paul from S2central.net describes the process better than I could http://s2central.net/S2_How_To/Interior/dashboard.pdf
And remove the entire heater and fan system. This is actually quite easy, disconnect the coolant heater pipes, remove 2 nuts on the engine bay side of the bulk head, and 2 bolts under the pollen filter. Then its just a case of wiggling it out. There are sources online which describe this in better detail.
This presents you with your first problem, the hole in the bulkhead
After a lot of deliberation and speaking to someone who has done this conversion themselves, I decided on what might seem a bodge solution, but ultimately works extremely well, looks factory from inside the bulkhead, isn't at all noticable, cheap and quick to do, and won't leak.
That solution was a piece of decent quality thick black plastic cut slightly larger than the hole, stuck to the inside using tiger seal, and sealed on the outside as well. You would never notice it.
There is also a smaller hole underneath where the water from the evapourator drains off. You can plug this using a simple blanking grommet.
Ultimately you will need to source a non AC car to remove the neccessary parts from, any audi 80 down the scrap yard will do. Remove the whole heater box system and fan housing from the donor car (leave attached the fan, wiring loom section, and resistor)
You will notice the heater controls on an AC car have 3 cables, but the heater controls on a non AC car have 4 cables. The extra cable is to close a flap in the fan box housing so no air can enter the car, it can be seen on the far left of the previous pic.
I would reccomend removing this 4th cable and its mechanism and fitting it to your orignal controls, or use the entire heater box, fan housing and controls from the non AC car. Taking the cables off the heater box is tricky to do and you'll break the clips quite easily.
This is the cam drive for the 4th cable on the fan speed selector.
When you turn the control knob, the last quarter turn is what closes the flap
Change the heater core while your in there. I bought one off the shelf from GSF for £42. The one in my original heater box had started to leak, so this whole job served 2 purposes.
Refit the heater box and fan housing into your car. Test the functionality of everything before you re-fit the dash!
The glovebox in a non Air Con car is larger. If you want to use it, you will need the bracket and catch from the dashboard of the non AC car. The bracket is riveted to the inside of the dashboard so you will need to drill it off and re-rivet it to your dash (the holes are there).
You should also swap the handle and lock mechanism so that your orignal key can lock your new glovebox.
The glovebox light is also different and will need to be swapped. Also if you’re really fussy, the piece of soundproofing between the back of the glovebox and the ECU is different so would need to be swapped if you want to retain it.
The AC and REC buttons are part of a panel which is simply clipped to the side of the heater controls and can be taken off. You will need the facia from the non Air Con car so you’re not left with 2 holes.
You end up with only one plug being left redundant behind the dash, its the large bright red one.
While you’ve got the dash out its worth while to recify any wiring woes which may remain from previous bodges, dodgey alarm systems or stereo installs. I used the oppertunity to fit a boost gauge while the centre console was out as well.
So there you have it. Re-fit the dash and pray you don’t get stuck in traffic in the middle of a heat wave.
There are a number of advantages to not having an Air Con system in your S2. The engine bay looks tidier and is easier to clean, working around the engine becomes easier, you don’t have to worry about replacing expensive parts of the system when they fail, and of course, there is a considerable amount of weight to be saved. The pump, bracket, condenser, drier and pipes in the engine bay weigh around 15kg.
If you have already removed the part of the Air Con system which lies in the engine bay, you will notice you’re left with the inlet to the evapourator sticking through the bulkhead. If you wish to fully remove the system to further reduce weight and tidy your engine bay area then read ahead.
Behind the dashboard in the centre of the car you have the heater box which houses the heater core, and all the flaps to direct air flow (this unit is practically identical between Air Con and non Air Con cars) attached to the side of this is the Air Con box which houses the evapourator and the fan. This picture shows the 2 halves separated from each other, (heater box is the bit on the right)
So basically you need to take this out! to start off with you're going to have to remove the dash. This source by Paul from S2central.net describes the process better than I could http://s2central.net/S2_How_To/Interior/dashboard.pdf
And remove the entire heater and fan system. This is actually quite easy, disconnect the coolant heater pipes, remove 2 nuts on the engine bay side of the bulk head, and 2 bolts under the pollen filter. Then its just a case of wiggling it out. There are sources online which describe this in better detail.
This presents you with your first problem, the hole in the bulkhead
After a lot of deliberation and speaking to someone who has done this conversion themselves, I decided on what might seem a bodge solution, but ultimately works extremely well, looks factory from inside the bulkhead, isn't at all noticable, cheap and quick to do, and won't leak.
That solution was a piece of decent quality thick black plastic cut slightly larger than the hole, stuck to the inside using tiger seal, and sealed on the outside as well. You would never notice it.
There is also a smaller hole underneath where the water from the evapourator drains off. You can plug this using a simple blanking grommet.
Ultimately you will need to source a non AC car to remove the neccessary parts from, any audi 80 down the scrap yard will do. Remove the whole heater box system and fan housing from the donor car (leave attached the fan, wiring loom section, and resistor)
You will notice the heater controls on an AC car have 3 cables, but the heater controls on a non AC car have 4 cables. The extra cable is to close a flap in the fan box housing so no air can enter the car, it can be seen on the far left of the previous pic.
I would reccomend removing this 4th cable and its mechanism and fitting it to your orignal controls, or use the entire heater box, fan housing and controls from the non AC car. Taking the cables off the heater box is tricky to do and you'll break the clips quite easily.
This is the cam drive for the 4th cable on the fan speed selector.
When you turn the control knob, the last quarter turn is what closes the flap
Change the heater core while your in there. I bought one off the shelf from GSF for £42. The one in my original heater box had started to leak, so this whole job served 2 purposes.
Refit the heater box and fan housing into your car. Test the functionality of everything before you re-fit the dash!
The glovebox in a non Air Con car is larger. If you want to use it, you will need the bracket and catch from the dashboard of the non AC car. The bracket is riveted to the inside of the dashboard so you will need to drill it off and re-rivet it to your dash (the holes are there).
You should also swap the handle and lock mechanism so that your orignal key can lock your new glovebox.
The glovebox light is also different and will need to be swapped. Also if you’re really fussy, the piece of soundproofing between the back of the glovebox and the ECU is different so would need to be swapped if you want to retain it.
The AC and REC buttons are part of a panel which is simply clipped to the side of the heater controls and can be taken off. You will need the facia from the non Air Con car so you’re not left with 2 holes.
You end up with only one plug being left redundant behind the dash, its the large bright red one.
While you’ve got the dash out its worth while to recify any wiring woes which may remain from previous bodges, dodgey alarm systems or stereo installs. I used the oppertunity to fit a boost gauge while the centre console was out as well.
So there you have it. Re-fit the dash and pray you don’t get stuck in traffic in the middle of a heat wave.
Comment