High Idle with slight misfire

[porkkis]

Those three are fed by the same fuse IIRC so one of your fuses is probably blown. (Probably wise to find out why).

I can not see how they would cause your misfire so I'd say that is a separate thing. That causes high idle as your ISV is now without control at a constant position.

Better just replace all of your ignition HT side components and hope for the best.

[l455lnk]

I had the same kind of problem with my aby when i first bought it
1200 idle
roughish running
voltage checks showed not only was the circuit dead but somene had removed the fuse!
so check for voltage at the plug remove and clean again and test on the bench with 8 volts not twelve
dont force it round with a screwdriver as you will score and burr the slider and it will hang up even more

cheers
paul

[newsh]

Yes, its sounds like your ISV is not getting a voltage, could be a broken wire near the plug caused by the movement of the engine. If I unplug my ISV the idle does just as you describe.

[newsh]

Temperature.. is the fan running all the time? The fan should cut in at 90deg so if its reading 100 and the fan is not running it may be that the gauge just reads high.

[220bhp]

Very interesting about the ISV,I will get it tested. In the mean time I have taken the N75 of the car cleaned it out as best I could with wd40 and ran a 12v test on it, as suggested by a search of the n75 on this forum, The result is that I heard no klick and I could not blow through the long pipe,so am I right in assuming that its not working.
I also found that the pipe from the n75 to the wastegate was hard ,and seemed to be very brittle,so I replaced this with a piece of thick rubber petrol pipe,I hope thats ok.With regard to the running tempreture the fan cuts in at 90 but the car will still run up to 100. the fan also cuts in a few seconds after the car is switched of. One other thing,on replacing some more vacume hoses,I found that a copper T junction of what appears to be a one way valve,behind and to the right of the throttle body,had come out, I tried to suck ,and blow on this pipe but its seems to be blocked, its a short braided hose which conects to a thin black plastic pipe and gos into the bulk head. Ihave no idea what its for. Many thanks for all your help Lou

[newsh]

Check you dont have air in the top of the rad by removing the bleed srew and topping up from the header tank till water flows out.

[spink]

did you end up changing the lamda probe?Dan b had similar problems with his a couple of years ago.He changed the lambda and it was ok after,dont think his was running hot though.

[newsh]

did you end up changing the lamda probe?Dan b had similar problems with his a couple of years ago.He changed the lambda and it was ok after,dont think his was running hot though.

Good point, the engine will run hot if its lean.

[220bhp]

Is there any way of testing it,only I'm fast running out of money here,My local audi dealer sends me emails thanking me for my custom,theres a picture of me in there showroom, and they send me present at christmas an on birthdays

[twoqu]

What was the outcome of the fuses?
To be perfectly honest you are going to be better off investing in (or borrowing) a multimeter. You can probably get a cheap one from Halfords or somewhere. Then you can actually test the components electrically rather than physically. It will also allow you to verify voltages at the components.
Its not a difficult thing to use and will save you hours, weeks even, of frustration. For example can you confirm that all three of those components, the idle valve, boost solenoid and carbon cannister valve have power on them?

[Jas11n]

When you had the codes pulled, did you not get them to run the output tests?
These will cycle through injectors, ISV, carbon canister valve and the WGFV and you should be able to hear each one working.
If you've not got quick access to vag-com, then the output test can be run using the blink code method.
Sjmautotechnik has a run-through of how to do it Here
With vag-com hooked up, you can also see the values being put out by the lambda, either through the "measured blocks" feature or by running vag-scope. I'm sure if you did this and stated the values that you got, then some knowledgeable chap would know if they looked good or bad.

[220bhp]

Thanks for the help guys,I checked the fuses and apart from the main beams,which were blown [upgraded bulbs I recon] they were all ok.I will invest in a multy meter this week and see what I can do. as for vagcome is this something I can beg borrow or steel or is back to audi. Many thanks Lou [Floundering]

[220bhp]

Well I fitted a new N75 wgfv tonight,and there is no change the symtoms, if any thing are getting worse, more like boost control cutting in but this happens from 1450 to just over 2000revs, its little more vi'olent than before, but this is the worst bit after fitting the n75 I took it for a spin, [from cold this is] only for about three or four miles, and I did'nt open her up until about 90 on the dial,then I opened her up a few times, on country roads this is.
When I got back the fan was one, I opened the bonnet and noticed that the exhaust side of the Turbo was glowing red hot. Now I have to say that I hav'nt noticed this before,but it was so vis'ible I am sure I would have noticed. So once again I am in need of help and advise :help. Cheers from a very worried Lou

[220bhp]

Jas 11n thanks for your advice. I will try the blink codes this weekend and let you know the results. Cheers Mate

[UrS4boy]

Well I fitted a new N75 wgfv tonight.....
When I got back the fan was one, I opened the bonnet and noticed that the exhaust side of the Turbo was glowing red hot. Now I have to say that I hav'nt noticed this before,but it was so vis'ible I am sure I would have noticed.

Er, from what you just said, you hadn't loaded the engine that much so the turbo "glowing red" seems a bit odd. IF this is true, I suspect your catalytic converters are clogged (why, I wouldn't know). I suggest that you disconnect the down pipe and see if the symptoms go away. It could be they are just bunged up and the exhaust has no way to go, leading to overheating, boost issues, etc.

This just happened in the USA where one fellow had similar boost problems found his UrS6 saloon's cats were clogged. Everything was wonderful once they were replaced.

Dave F.