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UR Quattro 20v Injectors

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  • #31
    Took car for test run yesterday. Still misfiring and noted slight fuel misting around rearmost injector base into manifold. do these need a whack with a mallet when refitting to seat properly?. In general. I dont understand what keeps them held down anyway. In general, was so cheesed off yesterday, if someone had offered me £60k yesterday, would have sold it...

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    • #32
      Hi buddy

      Is it holding pressure on the boost leak test yet?

      Can you describe the misfire, exactly how it happens? On boost only? Complete cutout?

      Injectors are just held in by the rail, two M6 allen bolts into the inlet manifold.

      S2 Coupe 3B Project


      Ur quattro restoration

      S2 Avant

      Boost is the new rock and roll!
      sigpic

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      • #33
        Are you 100% sure you have the correct o rings for your injectors? The way you described fitting issues doesn't sound right. Whenever I have done these, I use a little Vaseline and they pop in really easily
        Nothelle S2 Avant
        Black Ur project
        Ocianic Ur project gone
        S2 Coupe project gone
        Urs6 plus project gone

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        • #34
          Yes I use either plumbers silicon grease or a blue waterproof grease I have, Silkolene I think.

          S2 Coupe 3B Project


          Ur quattro restoration

          S2 Avant

          Boost is the new rock and roll!
          sigpic

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          • #35
            Thanks everyone. I checked the new O rings with the old and they are correct. They were correct OEM kits. Its just the rearmost one so maybe the seat has some dirt on it despite me cleaning them out. Anyway, its all coming back out cos I'm also going to remove the inlet manifold to access the dist, check it and replace all the original HT leads
            The engine starts fine, but is now hunting slightly again on idle and exhaust is slightly rich again. Then on light throttle engine rises and no gasps or misfirrs. But quick stab and it takes a mighty gulp of air and doesnt pick up. On the road, under any load. It will just gasp like the fuel has been cut, it misfires and will not pull. Just for fun, the R8 battery totally failed too, so a new one is on the way, which needs half the boot psnels removing to fit. Anyway, will get there, thanks to all your support

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            • #36
              Hello. Having checked the Wastegate Frequency Valve (all good), I need to now test the Fuel Pressure Regulator but as always its a pig to get to. Does anyone have any tips on how to do this ie best connection points etc. Thanks again for any info/pics if you have done it. Quattro 20V RR engine

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              • #37
                I have also now removed the top row of 5x Allen bolts from the Inlet Manifold; that was stressful as none have been been removed since leaving the factory and each one gave a mighty crack on undoing. Then I discovered there are 5x more bolts below! How do you get to them ie is it necessary to remove all the radiator out of the way?
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                • #38
                  You don't need to remove the radiator, but you will need to buy the special allen key tool that fits in the access holes and is long enough to reach the bolts.

                  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bondhus-H...item5d3e250673
                  sigpic
                  1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
                  1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
                  1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by AndyP View Post
                    You don't need to remove the radiator, but you will need to buy the special allen key tool that fits in the access holes and is long enough to reach the bolts.

                    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bondhus-H...item5d3e250673
                    Thanks Andy,

                    TBH its the top 5x bolts that are reached via the holes through the manifold, you can see in my pictures my SnapOn 1/4 drive was a perfect fit and the sheers torque required needed this level of chrome steel. That tool will twist with the torque required. I have had another look and each bolt head is aligned under the manifold so with alot of fiddling, I think I can reach them all.

                    Thanks for commenting on the rad removal, I will remove the side air blanking shield to get access on the front 1-2 bolts.

                    All I can think is they build the engine complete before installtaion then drop the whole thing in. I am at a kind of point of no return if I want to test the Press Reg valve and reach the distributor. Cheers

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                    • #40
                      I have now connected a vacuum gauge to the vacuum tube of the Fuel Press Regulator (normally connected to the inlet manifold). The FPG is holding a steady vaccum of around 20mm HG and not dropping so from this I can take it the diaphragm is in good condition. The IM bolts are such a nightmare to access I am going to refit the injectors and rail and test the vacuum again ie simulating a vacuum in the FPG which should see a change in engine note as the injectors demand more fuel

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