AAN fuel cut! Why?

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  • rdeis
    S2Forum Tinkerer
    • Apr 2015
    • 6
    • Country: United States

    #1

    AAN fuel cut! Why?

    Hey, all. My AAN is experiencing fuel cutoff, trying to track down the culprit. Fairly certain it's an ECU fuel cutoff- the car will be pulling hard under boost just fine and then quit and throw you forward like it hit a wall. After a second or so it will start puilling really hard again as if nothing happened, and then hit the wall again.

    It doesn't feel like the spark is blowing out- I've expereiced that as well and that is a much softer failure mode. WIth a spark problem the car will start sputtering and lose power under boost, but this is this really sharp, sudden failure that almost feels like you hit something.

    On my mitsubishi we call it "fuel cut" and it usually happens because the airflow signal from the MAF is going over some "danger limit" in the computer so the ECU shuts off the fuel to save the motor. Sometimes that's because there's a big boost leak, sometimes it's because there's a problem in the MAF, sometimes it's just a turbo upgrade that has the system worried. So that's what I think is going on here on my 1995 S6.

    I used to have a huge boost leak in the Audi and the fuel would cut off at around 5000 rpm, but now I've fixed that, and it *was* running much better until one of the coils went bad. (This car has the coil-on-plug mod that removes the POS circuits)

    I replaced the offending coil, and now I'm getting random fuel cutoff at seemingly random high and low RPMs to the point where I can't use the car. I can't for the life of me figure out what the coil would have to do with it, but I tried swapping in a different new coil and the problem persisted. Coincidence, maybe?

    I also noticed that it runs better when it first starts. The problems with the fuel cutoff don't really start before I've taken the car a few miles and it's warmed up.

    I also cleaned the MAF thoroughly with MAF spray cleaner, and that seemed to help, but it's still not really drivable.

    So what do you guys say is failing here? And how can I verify the broken part before spending a bunch of money on a replacement?

    Thanks!
  • UrS4boy
    S2Forum Obsessed
    • Feb 2006
    • 11859
    • Country: Canada

    #2
    One missing and hesitation diagnostic

    Hard to tell at a distance what your symptoms are really trying to tell you.

    Any check engine light codes? Did you check?

    Have you been playing with the wastegate spring as in turning the adjustment screw down?

    How old is your fuel pump? Is the fuel filter clean?

    Fuel Pump info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22623.phtml

    You sure it's not a boost leak (again)?

    AAN Boost Leaks - Why they happen and how to find them via boost leak testing:

    The Audi Enthusiast website. Forums for all Audis including A4, S4, A5, S5, A6, S6, allroad, A8, S8, TT, R8, Q5, Q7, 4000, 100, 200, v6, v8, vintage, local forums


    You might want to read this too:

    One missing and hesitation diagnostic
    The Audi Enthusiast website. Forums for all Audis including A4, S4, A5, S5, A6, S6, allroad, A8, S8, TT, R8, Q5, Q7, 4000, 100, 200, v6, v8, vintage, local forums


    RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
    94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

    Comment

    • Error404
      Super Moderator
      • Mar 2007
      • 19789
      • Country: United Kingdom

      #3
      Originally posted by rdeis
      On my mitsubishi we call it "fuel cut" and it usually happens because the airflow signal from the MAF is going over some "danger limit" in the computer so the ECU shuts off the fuel to save the motor. Sometimes that's because there's a big boost leak, sometimes it's because there's a problem in the MAF, sometimes it's just a turbo upgrade that has the system worried. So that's what I think is going on here on my 1995 S6.
      /\ This.

      Pull codes
      Boost leak test.
      Clean or replace MAF connector terminals
      Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
      Indigo ABY coupé
      Imola B6 S4 Avant

      Comment

      • newsh
        S2Forum Obsessed
        • Aug 2003
        • 16226
        • Country: United Kingdom

        #4
        I chased this for years on my 3B, it was the MAF connector terminals.

        S2 Coupe 3B Project


        Ur quattro restoration

        S2 Avant

        Boost is the new rock and roll!
        sigpic

        Comment

        • rdeis
          S2Forum Tinkerer
          • Apr 2015
          • 6
          • Country: United States

          #5
          Pull codes: How? I assume you guys have an FAQ that details the procedure.

          Boost Leak: If so, it's pretty small now, but I'll look again.

          MAF terminals: Standard electrical contact cleaner, or is there more to it? STA-BIL and a wire brush?

          Thanks again- you guys are great!

          Comment

          • UrS4boy
            S2Forum Obsessed
            • Feb 2006
            • 11859
            • Country: Canada

            #6
            Originally posted by rdeis
            Pull codes: How? I assume you guys have an FAQ that details the procedure. Boost Leak: If so, it's pretty small now, but I'll look again. MAF terminals: Standard electrical contact cleaner, or is there more to it? STA-BIL and a wire brush?Thanks again- you guys are great!
            Pulling codes:

            VAG-Com (Ross-Tech), U281 or this:



            Interpreting the DTCs e.g. 00531 or Blink Codes, e.g. 2113 (Ctrl F is your friend)



            Boost leak testing: You DO NOT LOOK. You DO, with pressure and a soapy water spray

            MAF terminals - Read this:
            The Audi Enthusiast website. Forums for all Audis including A4, S4, A5, S5, A6, S6, allroad, A8, S8, TT, R8, Q5, Q7, 4000, 100, 200, v6, v8, vintage, local forums


            RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
            94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

            Comment

            • rdeis
              S2Forum Tinkerer
              • Apr 2015
              • 6
              • Country: United States

              #7
              SOLVED! Partly...

              So I sprung for a knock-off of the Samco turbo outlet hose, and for a week or so it's all better. 22 psi and humming! Wahoo!

              The old hose had some weak spots that were passing my 10psi pressure test, but that apparently were blowing open at 15, so it was behaving almost as if an intake hose was coming loose and them being reattached. Wierd, but all better.

              Now I've got an intermittant problem that I'm pretty sure is the TPS or TPS connector. It idles fine, but will cut the fuel with anything over a few pounts of boost with the throttle open. Keep teh throttle closed or just barely open and it's OK. I get the same behavior if I unplug the TPC altogether, and after I fiddle with the connector is stops for a while- sometimes a few miles, sometimes a few hours. I've cleaned the connector pretty carefully, but still need to verify that none of tehe terminals are getting pushed back.

              I still can't the ECU to blink out any codes for me.

              Are these throttle sensors really $200US? egad..

              Comment

              • rdeis
                S2Forum Tinkerer
                • Apr 2015
                • 6
                • Country: United States

                #8
                Originally posted by UrS4boy
                Boost leak testing: You DO NOT LOOK. You DO, with pressure and a soapy water spray
                Oh, and yes- agreed. poor choice of words on my part!

                Comment

                • UrS4boy
                  S2Forum Obsessed
                  • Feb 2006
                  • 11859
                  • Country: Canada

                  #9
                  G69 / F60 Throttle valve position potentiometer /idle switch information

                  Originally posted by rdeis
                  Are these throttle sensors really $200US? egad..
                  Be happy if you can even find a new one. (Also used on the C4 and B4 AAH V6, etc)

                  G69 / F60 Throttle valve position potentiometer /idle switch information:
                  The Audi Enthusiast website. Forums for all Audis including A4, S4, A5, S5, A6, S6, allroad, A8, S8, TT, R8, Q5, Q7, 4000, 100, 200, v6, v8, vintage, local forums


                  Testing the throttle position switch:

                  Testing the F60 Closed Throttle (Idle) Switch is as follows:

                  Across Pins 4 and 6 on the switch:
                  Closed = 0 ohms (continuity)
                  Open throttle (slightly) = infinite ohms (open)
                  If either fails, adjust switch as per procedure above.

                  Testing the G69 Throttle Position Potentiometer:

                  Across Pins 1 and 2 on the switch:
                  Must be 1500 to 2600 ohms

                  Across Pins 2 and 3 on the switch:
                  Throttle closed = 750 to 1300 ohms
                  As throttle is opened from closed to WOT = increase to 3600 ohms
                  If NO, replace sensor.

                  http://12v.org/urs/G69F60ThrottlePos...hTestSheet.pdf

                  RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                  94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

                  Comment

                  • rdeis
                    S2Forum Tinkerer
                    • Apr 2015
                    • 6
                    • Country: United States

                    #10
                    I've run the test and the switch is OK, but I need to get an analog meter to make sure the pot behavior is smooth. I'd prefer to check it with a VAG-COM to verify the whole wiring harness.

                    Comment

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