Battery help

[S2central.net]

mmmmm.... Hows about unscrewing two of the cell caps and using a 2-legged puller (taped up to prevent any risk of touching battery plates) to use as a kind of makeshift handle to lift the booger out ?

[ericd]

mmmmm.... Hows about unscrewing two of the cell caps and using a 2-legged puller (taped up to prevent any risk of touching battery plates) to use as a kind of makeshift handle to lift the booger out ?

yeah thought about supergluing a handle to it, just don't understand why its so tight for space and problematic, thought it was just me, but jason said it was a right pain when he tried getting his original battery out, just worried I'd missed something stupid, also worried now hoe I'm gonna get the new one in

[Fat Audi 80]

New ones come with handles...

I have changed the battery and it was easy, but I think someone had already done the hard work as mine had a handle to take it out.

Best of luck Eric.

Cheers,

Steve

[ericd]

still looking for clarification if the lower bracket with -ve cable needs to be moved/pushed etc,etc.

[ericd]

just as an update, thing have got a tad worse, put it altogether after giving up on trying to get battery out yesterday,

key fob doesn't work, get beep from horn when activating c/locking with key in door but fob does nothing (original dealer upgrade alarm)

car won't start, turns over great, used vagcom to try and find out what problem is but can't talk to engine ecu , can talk to everything else though

[S2central.net]

Yikes... I'd be surprised if a bit of terminal jiggling has killed a good ECU like Bosch, but have you checked dopey things like fuses - ALL the ECU fuses ?

If thats not the problem then I can check over your ECU if you like - fixed a few in the past with things like zapped protection diodes.

Only other suggestion is IMMO related on a late car like yours, but the normal behaviour there with an unhappy IMMO is the car starts, runs for a second or two then dies...

Maybe the dealer fitted alarm is the culprit if it needs reset in some way after the battery was off - so as to relearn the keyfob for one thing - maybe the engine is immobilised by that alarm too - by means of a power feed, primary sensor or fuel pump ????

[S2central.net]

Afterthought - If its not talking to the ECU then it suggests the alarm might have one of the power rails wired thru it and you need to reset the alarm before that connection is made...

[ericd]

I'm in the middle of recharging the old battery (it's on its way out), just remind me of all the ecu fuses I should be checking , the 2 motor fuses etc,etc. 9problem might be me !)

There's a few posts (including one from Ben) about reprogramming the fob , I've already tried what the alarm manual says but it didn't work , I've also noticed some other strange electrical behaviour relating to the digital clock and a few other things which I'll detail once I get it sorted.

Car's obviously not happy giving up its "heart" after 14 years..

[S2central.net]

All ABY fuses listed on s2central.net in the tech section but from memory its the two MOTOR fuses which provide juice into the ECU itself... I'll check the schematic here.

[S2central.net]

In no particular order

S13 - fuel pump
S21 - OBD (black plug carries 12V)
S24 - WGFV, ISV, EVAP, Afterrun controller
S25 - lambda heater
S27 - ECU unswitched 12V feed - appears at pin 18 on red/white wire
S32 - Coilpack power feed and switched 12V into ECU - appears at pin 27 on a black wire
S28 - fuel injectors and MAF

[ericd]

cheers Paul, both motor fuses look ok, diagnostic fuse is working as i can talk to other systems like abs, must be alarm/immob, tried most things to reset it (dealer fitted upgrade, 2 button + slider , with 3 pin side socket in fob), but if any body has any sequence to try I'll gladly try it), central locking works with key and you get the single horn blast

[S2central.net]

See if you can get to the ECU connector and verify presence of 12V at pin 18 (always) and 12V at pin 27 (key on)...

You might even see evidence in the loom near the ECU of some aftermarket wiring - that would be easiest place for an installer to get at - even though there are tidier places elsewhere which would have taken longer.

[S2central.net]

If the ECU is getting power then you'll need to see if it enables the fuel pump when you start cranking - but we'll get to that when you are ready ! Hope its just something silly like alarm/immo - you might need to contact the vendor for other suggestions on resetting it.

[ericd]

got it going again (had previously checked every fuse and they were ok), only thing I remember doing different was removing the two motor fuses before disconnecting and ultimately reconnecting the battery. i.e. last time I did it I left the motor fuses in place before disconnecting the battery , n.b. (also therefore didn't lift the bonnet twice, one when removing and once when replacing the fuses with battery connected), can you tell I used to be in diagnostics , I'll have to go and write down a wee parse tree to calm down...

Oh nearly forgot still to get battery oot

[k.alle]

Get a strap like one of these if the battery is giving you a hard time:



They work excellent, costs ~£1 here in Sweden.