amp needed for a 15'' 1000watt sub?

[MGaz]

hi, i'm fitting a 15inch JBL 1000watt (250watt RMS) sub in the boot of my typ85 CQ.

two questions,

1) what power of amp will i need to drive it correctly? i'm also thinking i'd like a pioneer amp,.. any recomendations on what one is best?




2) i'm planing to build an inclosure on the right side of the boot, but i've noticed that the ECU for the ABS is on that side. will the magnetic feild from such a large magnet damage or affect how it works in some way, being so close?

or maybe will the vibrations from the sub be a problem?

[Jamo]

A JBL sub is not that fussy so anything that can delivery 250 rms will do.

Is the sub single or dual coil?

Will make a difference as you'd want a 2 ohm stable amp on a dual coil sub.

I use a genesis profile sub amp very clean and does 550 rms and this is what I would recommend or a JL 500/1

Do not buy a class D amp, buy a class AB

Class D amps give big power ratings but sound rubbish.

[newsh]

My lad has an amp for sale I think.
Kenwood KAC 929 1000W (so prolly a real 250W RMS)
stereo or bridgable,
Should do it, do you want me to find out how much?

[Astro]

The JL 500/1 is class D and the Genisis is a class G, I thought you said D was bad and AB was the way forward. I know of some very good sounding class D amps and so does Newsh!!!

[newsh]

True True!

Anyway the lad says 50 quid for the Kenwood if you want it...

[Acidburn]

One thing I did on my type 85 (running a small kenwood and twin 12 inch subs) was sprayed some sound deadning spray around the boot to stop the flex and moved the speakers from the rear shelf to the rear door cards (inside the pockets) as I found it let air thru better from the sub. I also found the sport rear spoiler and roof still flexed on this but it was still good.

[Ritch66]

Install your ipod to your ears, and save the pedestrians!

Enjoy the sound of the 5cl, and save the sound trickery for the car park corsa/chav mobiles.....

Why ruin the soundtrack you already have?

Sorry in advance if this offends you, this post was sponsored by 'Gordon's' !!

[Jamo]

The JL 500/1 is class D and the Genisis is a class G, I thought you said D was bad and AB was the way forward. I know of some very good sounding class D amps and so does Newsh!!!

Class G is an uprated version of class AB which is why I have it!

The guy is clearly on a budget so if he's looking for an amp go AB.

I never said AB was the way forward, I said get an AB over a D or get a Genesis if you car to reread my post.

Class D's do not sound good at all although the JL 500/1 is a good amp.

Car manufacturers can make load of bad cars then come up with a pearler.

The same applies in car audio, there are good amps in bad classes.

[MGaz]

Class G is an uprated version of class AB which is why I have it!

The guy is clearly on a budget so if he's looking for an amp go AB.

I never said AB was the way forward, I said get an AB over a D or get a Genesis if you car to reread my post.

Class D's do not sound good at all although the JL 500/1 is a good amp.

Car manufacturers can make load of bad cars then come up with a pearler.

The same applies in car audio, there are good amps in bad classes.

how can u tell what 'class' an amp is in? will it be written somewhere?

[Jamo]

It will say on the amp or box.

Most amps aren't digitial however and class D ones will be marked as such as it's suppose to be a big selling point.

[curlyks2]

1) what power of amp will i need to drive it correctly?

Shameless advertising: apologies to everyone. You need one of these JBL amps!

Ck.

[Jamo]

The 75.2 is ratted 290 rm @ 4 ohms for single channel but thats at 14.4V

I'd be wanting a bit of headroom to be honest but certainly do the job.

[MGaz]

My lad has an amp for sale I think.
Kenwood KAC 929 1000W (so prolly a real 250W RMS)
stereo or bridgable,
Should do it, do you want me to find out how much?

what class amp is the kenwood?

[MGaz]

A JBL sub is not that fussy so anything that can delivery 250 rms will do.

Is the sub single or dual coil?

Will make a difference as you'd want a 2 ohm stable amp on a dual coil sub.

I use a genesis profile sub amp very clean and does 550 rms and this is what I would recommend or a JL 500/1

Do not buy a class D amp, buy a class AB

Class D amps give big power ratings but sound rubbish.

the sub is a JBL GT4-15
250w RMS
1000W Peak

dunno if its a dual coil.

[MikeLarwood]

Class G is an uprated version of class AB which is why I have it!

The guy is clearly on a budget so if he's looking for an amp go AB.

I never said AB was the way forward, I said get an AB over a D or get a Genesis if you car to reread my post.

Class D's do not sound good at all although the JL 500/1 is a good amp.

Car manufacturers can make load of bad cars then come up with a pearler.

The same applies in car audio, there are good amps in bad classes.

WTF? Class Ds don't make the blindest bit of difference so long as you use them where they're designed to be used - Sub-bass. Class AB amps are typically suited to fullrange and components as they do have better clarity through a larger range, but for Sub-bass this is pretty much wasted. Also, typically Class AB amplifiers are less efficient than Class D amplifiers, so you'll put more load on your (10+ year old) alternator for the same effective power and output. And significantly more expensive Watt-for-Watt...

However if you want something to take your car apart, I've got a JL 13W7 and a Solid Audio 2500D which should be more than capable. For sale too!

*Edit - This is for a typical car audio system. For SQL, yes, you would probably specify an AB but this would A) cost a fortune and B) require a massive amount of experience to design the enclosure/set up crossovers and also set the soundstage up properly, which IMO the Coupe is a bad shape for sound stage.