Right hand Pull

[Azman]

Oh yeah. Would my FARB cause this in any way. The passenger side ball joint on the bar is stuffed and keeps popping off.

[Keeper of The Kitten]

The bar shouldn't be a controlling element for alignment, no, just to control roll (sway) of the car on the move.

Yes, I meant the wishbone bushes! If you had a bent wishbone it would certainly put the camber out - but it would send it towards positive camber because the bottom part of the wheel would be moved inboard. Worn bushes can settle and pull the wishbone (and the bottom of the wheel) outwards during static setup (or straight running ...EDIT: this would happen if you have toe-out at the front), but during cornering the opposite would happen and the bottom of the wheel would push inwards (...EDIT: this will also happen during straight running if you have toe-in at the front).

Fresh top mounts would prevent movement at the top, which could also alter camber, but they are a lot further from the wheel than the wishbone and the effect is diminished.

Where are the undersize bolts you refer to? Are these sleeved in some way? I would be very wary of undersize bolts unless the grade is suitable. If they are suspension bolts or high quality aftermarket bolts (eg Holokrome, Unbrako) then they are ok, but be careful!

__MDC__

[Azman]

They are the bolts that hold the hub carrier to the strut. I used the bolts from my CQ as the bolts from the 3B setup where far too big to go through the strut holes. This will obviously affect the camber slightly but not by that much on the one wheel. I hopefully will have the bolt sleves tomorow. Then fit them and get re tracked etc.

[Jas11n]

They are the bolts that hold the hub carrier to the strut. I used the bolts from my CQ as the bolts from the 3B setup where far too big to go through the strut holes. This will obviously affect the camber slightly but not by that much on the one wheel. I hopefully will have the bolt sleves tomorow. Then fit them and get re tracked etc.

That means you have a larger hole on the hub, but the standard smaller hole on the strut leg. An area for a lot of movement.
Ask Russ ("New Convertor") on here about how much movement in the this area can upset the car. He ended coming off the track at Combe last year when this joint moved and you could actually see the difference between the two front wheels.

[Azman]

So best get the bolt sleeves ASAP then.

[rotoryboy]

Why dont you just drill the outers out to fit the 14mm through the lot?

[topsparky]

if the arb is shagged won't you get bump steer

[Keeper of The Kitten]

If the arb is in any way connected to bump steer, I will eat my hat (and I do own a hat!)

...bump steer is exactly what it sounds like, the tendency for a wheel to steer when the suspension compresses (bump travel). I don't think the arb is used as a controlling element on these cars (I know it might be on some other vehicles). We have McPherson-type struts with a wishbone, and the track rod takes care of the steering effect (both ends as a track rod is used at the rear too). If you did something like raising/lowering the steering rack it would result in bump steer, because the arc described by the track rod would not be compatible with the arc described by the steering arm end.

I'm in agreement with Mark here, why not drill out and use the larger bolts?

__MDC__

[Azman]

Sounds like a better option its just getting it in line that I am worried about when drilling!!!!

[Azman]

Just got my link arms. Off to fit new ones both sides. Toodle pip

[Azman]

Right FARB links changed. (In quite a good time considering the bolts were siezed) and went for a little drive. Noticed when I got back that the drivers side wheel is still toeing out a touch - Right hand pull. Rang the people who did the alignment had a moan and am going back tomorow for another one. May be getting somewhere now. Car feels a little better with the new link in. Just need an engine now and to sort the bolts out.