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What do you guys use for bottom ball joint nuts since the OEM collar nuts are NLA? I have tried nordlock washers with nyloc nuts but they came loose the second time now. I have the small washers now so maybe I'll try buying bigger ones and using some non OEM nuts with collar. Only thing that worries me is the corrosion resistance with non OEM stuff. Please share your experience
The manual advised the change to the lock nuts with flange and to not use the washer any more. If you use the washer, you don't require a flanged ribbed nut so any M10x1.5 locking nut will do the job. A new balljoint should come with replacements anyway. The later A4,A8 cars had lots of these locknuts with the flange on their suspension setups so these could be used as an alternative. Just make sure you tighten them when the car is on the ground, otherwise they can and will work loose
I can supply grade 10 flanged all-metal lock nuts (DIN) with the same coating as OEM - if there is interest - minimum order is 250 units, so around 40 sets.
The ball joint nuts from a MK1 S3/A3 are nearly identical to the later OE S2 type with a flange, their simply 16 mm head as opposed to 17 mm and their cheap from the dealer, that's what I've used in the past when replacing them. Get the mating face's on the wishbone spotless before fitting them, torque them up correctly and they won't come loose.
1990 B3 2.0 80 quattro.
1992 C4 2.8 Avant quattro
1994 MTM RS2.
1998 B5 TDI quattro Sport.
2000 B5 TQS.
That part number is no longer available from Audi. There may be some left in US, but that's a different system on it's own. Or the US parts catalog hasn't been updated recently.
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I guess I'll have to stop by the local dealer tomorrow and buy a set of mk1 a3 nuts.
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