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Total Under Car Refresh/Refurb on RS2

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  • Total Under Car Refresh/Refurb on RS2

    Hi, I am about to embark on getting my RS2 completely refreshed and refurbed on the underside and am wanting to keep it as near original as practically possible and in particular at the moment was wondering if anyone knows if the black, subframes, wishbones, antiroll bars were gloss, satin or matt finish, im quite sure they were never supposed to be gloss finish. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Im looking at renewing or refurbing the all systems under the car, if i can replace new i will, if parts or not available then i will get them refurbed.

  • #2
    Think it was all satin. I may be corrected
    1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project

    1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)

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    • #3
      I expect they were powder coated so they would be a matt finish
      Greg

      S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

      '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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      • #4
        Good luck on this I got my S2 done in 2015 new front subframe from Audi only had a couple left so a bit of luck there and a good second hand one from Spain all new bushes all round new differential expensive but worth it and I get it treated every 2 years now

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        • #5
          Satin black.

          I'm. Currently doing similar on my cq20v.

          The subframes have gone off to be dipped to remove rust inside and out then galvanised.. When they come back I am spraying them with epoxy mastic from rust.co.uk. It is hard as nails and sticks properly. Maybe overkill but this is the last time I'm doing it so it is being done properly! The thing with powder coating is that for me, it doesn't really do the inside of the subframes and can allow rust to creep underneath.

          Check your underseal as well. The thick rubbery factory stuff is great until it peels and then you have problems with water trapped under it and that is bad news.

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          • #6
            Look at this lot, just peeled off by hand
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            • #7
              What do folk think of POR15? I was going to shot blast my subframes and treat them with that along with struts wishbones etc.

              If you don't mind me asking Steve but where have you sent your subframes for dipping and galv?
              1994 Indigo Blue S2 coupe
              1994 80 Avant 1.9 TDI
              2005 Yamaha Fazer 1000
              1953 AJS Model 18S

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              • #8
                Thanks all for your help, Steve thanks for mentioning the insides of the sub frames as I hadn't thought of that. I feel that the front cast wishbone were possibly not coloured when new and were just bare cast, so to get them vapour blasted and back to a new condition how do I keep them looking new, do I get a clear coat sprayed onto them?

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                • #9
                  I don't know where the galvanising is actually done but a forum friend visits tonks4x4 in Nottingham regularly and Brian there offers the service. It's as simple as give to mate and he drives them up there with his own, dipping is done at one place, galv is another. They turn up done at home a couple or 3 weeks later! ​​​​​​

                  As for POR15 lots of people rate it but I've never used it so have no experience other than reading it needs to go on a properly prepared surface or results can be variable. Grit blasting is the surface prep they recommend. I guess it provides a really good key.

                  Vapour blast as a finish lasts pretty well on its own but under the car is as harsh a location as you can get so clear coat could help. Etching is key to painting aluminium, not sure if such a thing as etch clear coat exists but that would be ideal. It is all to do with the way aluminium forms it's oxide layer, this is how aluminium protects itself and is the dull grey surface you see. Unfortunately when this forms under normal paint, it becomes a layer between paint and metal that wasn't there when you put the paint on...

                  When my subframes come back, I've got some T-WASH solution (it's an acid etch / indicator) to brush on the galv' before paint. That sorts the surface of the fresh zinc so it can be painted. The paint will go on without it but could peel off due to the fresh zinc's reactivity.

                  Lastly, if you are confident your subframes are solid and don't have corrosion inside and in the seams then what I had thought of is spraying the inside of them with cavity wax. There are loads of them to choose from, I like the aerosol Dinitrol products. 3125HS is a good wax to build up a surface coating, ML was is super thin and runs every where, finding its way into seams and everywhere you can squirt wax.

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                  • #10
                    OEM parts were EPD coated (e-cote) in Satin black
                    Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                    Indigo ABY coupé
                    Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                    • #11
                      Error 404 thanks for that




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                      • #12
                        Hang on, are the cast wishbones cast in alloy or steel? Vapour blasting is spot on for alloy but I've just seen a pick of some cast wishbones and they looked rusty. Dry media blast for that and then paint or EPD as Alex suggests. EPD does last very well but is not something most folk can do at home. Was reading about it yesterday and you need a bath to immerse your parts in and a 400volt power supply to set up electrostatic attraction of paint onto your part. The clever thing about it is that it creates a uniform thickness as once it reaches a certain level, the coating itself isolates the part from receiving more paint, the process carries on until everything has the same layer all over, then it comes out of the bath. Sounds cool to me.

                        Electroplating is sacrificial (I.e it works by wearing off) EPD is a physical barrier coat.

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                        • #13
                          Biggest benefit of EPD is that it is an immersion coating, so the inside of parts are coated as well. Certainly not a DIY job, you’d need a few hundred litres of it for a start
                          Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                          Indigo ABY coupé
                          Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                          • #14
                            Mine was done 2 years ago as soon as I brought the car back from the UK. Then a repaint.

                            Thankfully it had no rust anywhere and all suspension parts were galvanised

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                            • #15
                              This is approx 5 years after shot blast powder coating Can only guess I got ripped off
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