This thread may serve to provide a single location for photos, illustrations, P/N's, and discussion of the subject differences, tips and related info necessary in understanding effective ball-joint functioning. Some of this may also be helpful if one is either trying to match or replace a joint or two; or trying to achieve a particular joint off-set, wheel position and / or caster angle.
Note the part numbers included here are, to the best of my knowledge correct, but please double-check them for yourself.
1) This photo's OEM bits show the front axle's stock forged-arm and joint arrangement from above, looking down at the top-sides, and note the front of the car would be towards the top of the photo:
A-arms, cast, with ball-joints attached 2019-04-30 at 22.41.27.png
2) This (A1QShip's) photo of the two later raised ball and more bent styles (these are LH side parts) which attempts to show the slightly different pin offsets between two nearly but not identical joints:
image_74620.png
I believe the P/N's for the B3 Sedan (LH item in above photo) are 895 407 365 (LH); and 366 (RH).
3) These show the B4 type (less offset, more caster) (P/N's 895 407 365A (LH); and 366A (RH).):
Ball-joint 895 407 365A, bent type, inside view 2019-05-23 at 23.12.57.png Ball-joint 366A, bent type, top view 2019-05-23 at 23.47.04.pngBall-joint 366A, bent type, bottom view 2019-05-23 at 23.51.05.png
4) These photos show the single type of earlier flat style, note also serrations present top-side and bottom, and that the pin offset may be as per the joint shown in the photo at 2) above, on the right (the B4 Cab style) i.e.: the pin centered on the aft slot center-line? P/N's 8A0 407 365 (LH); and 366 (RH).
Screen Shot 2019-05-23 at 14.45.17.pngScreen Shot 2019-05-23 at 14.48.07.png Ball-joint 365 flat, underside 2019-05-23 at 23.26.54.pngBall-joint 365, flat type, top view 2019-05-23 at 23.37.55.png Ball-joint, early flat, drwg & dimensions.png
5) The flat style also appears to hold the ball of the joint at a lower height, perhaps this and the lack of buttressing indicates it is originally meant for the welded arm?
Screen Shot 2019-05-23 at 14.53.11.png Ball-joint 895 407 365 flat style, in profile.png
6) This photo (Stevieyid's) below shows how the A-arm has the joint fastened to its' underside (and perhaps an original (super-ceeded by the serrated on bottom lock-nuts IIRC?) spacer-plate(?) under the nuts):
image_74621.png
7) Plates, Lock & Spacer: For the older original fasteners, this is the lock-plate (8A0 407 175); followed by the above mentioned spacer-plate (895 407 203):
SWAG Securing Plate, ball joint 32 78 0022.pngSWAG 30 91 9569 Securing Plate, ball joint.png
8) Nuts 'n bolts:
- Older: Graded hex-headed bolts with washers and lock-nuts or the OEM splined studs in the lock-plate and a spacer plate under the nuts (both shown above); & plain all-metal lock-nuts; or
- Newer: Splined studs (silver/green zinc plated); & serrated on bottom flanged all-metal lock-nuts:
9) The part numbers for all six ball-joints (the 3 above types, LH & RH of each) and a few more P/N's (thanks to GlynRS2):
ETKA re ball-joints 1.pngETKA re ball-joints 2.png
10) Best tip: From JariP:
(https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...16#post1255516)
"It might not be about counterfit parts. Many times the problem seems to be that the joint is bone dry and the only small bit of grease is high up in the boot and the joint will wear out before getting any lubrication. You really have to open up the boot and have a look inside before installing the parts. I found this out when I started having problems with tie rod ends lasting less than a years worth of driving. I bought three rod ends, expensive "known good" one, mid priced one and the cheapest one. I took off the protective rubber boots and all of them were the same. Small bit of grease high up in the boot and bone dry joint. So I put more grease in the joint and moved it around to spread it, put the boot back on and installed the rod end. This was some years ago and I haven't had any problems with tie rod ends after that."
I'll come back and revisit this again later.
Note the part numbers included here are, to the best of my knowledge correct, but please double-check them for yourself.
1) This photo's OEM bits show the front axle's stock forged-arm and joint arrangement from above, looking down at the top-sides, and note the front of the car would be towards the top of the photo:
A-arms, cast, with ball-joints attached 2019-04-30 at 22.41.27.png
2) This (A1QShip's) photo of the two later raised ball and more bent styles (these are LH side parts) which attempts to show the slightly different pin offsets between two nearly but not identical joints:
image_74620.png
I believe the P/N's for the B3 Sedan (LH item in above photo) are 895 407 365 (LH); and 366 (RH).
3) These show the B4 type (less offset, more caster) (P/N's 895 407 365A (LH); and 366A (RH).):
Ball-joint 895 407 365A, bent type, inside view 2019-05-23 at 23.12.57.png Ball-joint 366A, bent type, top view 2019-05-23 at 23.47.04.pngBall-joint 366A, bent type, bottom view 2019-05-23 at 23.51.05.png
4) These photos show the single type of earlier flat style, note also serrations present top-side and bottom, and that the pin offset may be as per the joint shown in the photo at 2) above, on the right (the B4 Cab style) i.e.: the pin centered on the aft slot center-line? P/N's 8A0 407 365 (LH); and 366 (RH).
Screen Shot 2019-05-23 at 14.45.17.pngScreen Shot 2019-05-23 at 14.48.07.png Ball-joint 365 flat, underside 2019-05-23 at 23.26.54.pngBall-joint 365, flat type, top view 2019-05-23 at 23.37.55.png Ball-joint, early flat, drwg & dimensions.png
5) The flat style also appears to hold the ball of the joint at a lower height, perhaps this and the lack of buttressing indicates it is originally meant for the welded arm?
Screen Shot 2019-05-23 at 14.53.11.png Ball-joint 895 407 365 flat style, in profile.png
6) This photo (Stevieyid's) below shows how the A-arm has the joint fastened to its' underside (and perhaps an original (super-ceeded by the serrated on bottom lock-nuts IIRC?) spacer-plate(?) under the nuts):
image_74621.png
7) Plates, Lock & Spacer: For the older original fasteners, this is the lock-plate (8A0 407 175); followed by the above mentioned spacer-plate (895 407 203):
SWAG Securing Plate, ball joint 32 78 0022.pngSWAG 30 91 9569 Securing Plate, ball joint.png
8) Nuts 'n bolts:
- Older: Graded hex-headed bolts with washers and lock-nuts or the OEM splined studs in the lock-plate and a spacer plate under the nuts (both shown above); & plain all-metal lock-nuts; or
- Newer: Splined studs (silver/green zinc plated); & serrated on bottom flanged all-metal lock-nuts:
Originally posted by Lago Blue
9) The part numbers for all six ball-joints (the 3 above types, LH & RH of each) and a few more P/N's (thanks to GlynRS2):
ETKA re ball-joints 1.pngETKA re ball-joints 2.png
10) Best tip: From JariP:
(https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...16#post1255516)
"It might not be about counterfit parts. Many times the problem seems to be that the joint is bone dry and the only small bit of grease is high up in the boot and the joint will wear out before getting any lubrication. You really have to open up the boot and have a look inside before installing the parts. I found this out when I started having problems with tie rod ends lasting less than a years worth of driving. I bought three rod ends, expensive "known good" one, mid priced one and the cheapest one. I took off the protective rubber boots and all of them were the same. Small bit of grease high up in the boot and bone dry joint. So I put more grease in the joint and moved it around to spread it, put the boot back on and installed the rod end. This was some years ago and I haven't had any problems with tie rod ends after that."
I'll come back and revisit this again later.
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