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Fitting Front & Rear Koni shock. Top mounts, Strut-Stops(Ersatz-Savers) & bump stops

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  • Fitting Front & Rear Koni shock. Top mounts, Strut-Stops(Ersatz-Savers) & bump stops

    Start to finish. Fitting Koni Sport shocks

    Setting front -1.5 from full hard.
    Settings rears -2.0 from full hard.

    Any comments along the way will help.

    First is the old gap between the body and the top cups.

    Target gap for the front is 3mm

    Mine are 7mm and 9mm. and these are original top mounts with about 4000km on good roads.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by orsum; 7th August 2019, 17:32.

  • #2
    On my car the rear are set softer than the fronts

    S2 Coupe 3B Project


    Ur quattro restoration

    S2 Avant

    Boost is the new rock and roll!
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    • #3
      I saw that. I always felt the rear was soft with the original shocks.

      A change to the rear shock setting has been made.


      Rears are now -2.0 From full hard.
      Last edited by orsum; 7th August 2019, 17:36.

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      • #4
        Well today has been a good day. I managed to get 1 front and 1 rear shock replaced. Easy job.

        What was interesting was the drivers side front strut nut I managed to turn off by hand

        For future reference the rear bump stop is about 85mm long compared to the fronts at 65mm long. I have been unable to get the OEM rear bump stop so I have used an original new front bump stop on the rear.

        Should I be concerned????

        On the rear strut they fitted the dust protector (bellows) below the strut nut. Obviously he had no idea what he was doing.

        Comment


        • #5
          Steve,

          - By "strut nut", do you mean the cap-nut which retains the damper in the strut tube?

          - In what manner did the original rears fail?

          - As the rear axle only carries approx. 1/3rd of the total weight, it may be OK to employ a front stop on the rear.

          - Save for length, are the two bump-stops otherwise the same diameter and density?

          - If the length is a concern could you effectively lengthen them with a short length of similar, perhaps a used or another new bit?



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          • #6
            Yep the cap-nut that retains the shock.

            Looked like oil coming out the drivers side rear, the rear felt soft and the handling on left turns was not good.
            Now that the shock has been removed it has almost no resistance in and out and it has about 50mm up and down movement without any resistance. Think the originals are supposed to be gas shocks. Push them in and they stay in.

            Both the front and rear bump stops are made from the same material. Some sort of hard orange/pink foam.

            I am not that worried, if they are ok for the weight on the front then they should be able to take the weight on the rear. Not planning to bottom out the rear.


            The Strut-Stops(Ersatz-Savers) fitted without any issues and look great. Thanks

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            • #7
              Just found one of the cable supports that fits on the bottom of the rear strut missing and the bolt has been snapped off. Who did that!!!! not me.

              Looks like I will have to to make one.

              Comment


              • #8
                So the make of the rear shocks fitted by by Audi were different Sachs on the left and Boge on the right. The Boge is the one that failed. Both had the same part number on them.

                Is that acceptable???? different make across the rear. Should I take them to Audi and ask whats going on?

                Again the man at Audi Durban put everything back wrong. They put the dust covers underneath the strut insert cap nut and the cap nut was not torques correctly.

                The good thing is the shock replacement has now been done correctly and I have peace of mind.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I found the complete job to be easy. If you have some skills and tools I would recommend doing yourself.

                  On the fronts I used spring clamps and it was a very easy job. No issues and I did not take the strut off the car.

                  On the rears I did not use spring clamps and it was an easy job. No issues except the bump stops I used are about 20mmm shorter. I used the same as the ones on the front of the S2 ABY. I did take the rear struts off the car.

                  I also decided to use the Strut-Stops(Ersatz-Savers) on the front and rear. They are an easy add on and I will report how the car is running at a later stage. I would also like to mention the old top mounts I took off the front had been squashed by 8mm and that was after about 7000km and the rears were squashed by about 12mm when compared to the new replacements.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Good job mate, well done.
                    I’m into mine again now as the chap who did it left the dust covers off the rear entirely and the driver’s side was knocking as the shock was not seated fully in the strut and top nut not tight enough.
                    Also found the repainted parts and the spring were dry when I asked for everything to be waxoiled.
                    Did your Konis come with white plastic discs about 50mm dia? I have these which I thought were to sit below the bump stop to protect the shock oil seal but now I’m not so sure..

                    S2 Coupe 3B Project


                    Ur quattro restoration

                    S2 Avant

                    Boost is the new rock and roll!
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11


                      Oh BTW I usually use a couple of small ratchet straps to compress the spring

                      S2 Coupe 3B Project


                      Ur quattro restoration

                      S2 Avant

                      Boost is the new rock and roll!
                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Interesting disk. Maybe it fits in the bottom of the strut tube to stop the knocking you are experiencing? Is it the right diameter?
                        I watched a video of someone doing a shock change the other night and he put a cup full of gearbox oil in the tube before the shock went in to act as a damper and stop the usual knocking
                        Nothelle S2 Avant in restoration

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                        • #13
                          Disc is too big to fit inside.
                          You can see the impression of the cap nut in the underside.
                          I’ll call Peter in the morning
                          The Koni has a steel sleeve at the top which is a tight fit in the strut, this was not tapped down and the cap nut threads weren’t clean. I’ve tapped the strut down, wire brushed the threads, copper greased them and used a 2 ft breaker bar to tighten the cap nut down, I don’t think it’s going to knock now.

                          S2 Coupe 3B Project


                          Ur quattro restoration

                          S2 Avant

                          Boost is the new rock and roll!
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by newsh View Post
                            Disc is too big to fit inside.
                            You can see the impression of the cap nut in the underside.
                            I’ll call Peter in the morning
                            The Koni has a steel sleeve at the top which is a tight fit in the strut, this was not tapped down and the cap nut threads weren’t clean. I’ve tapped the strut down, wire brushed the threads, copper greased them and used a 2 ft breaker bar to tighten the cap nut down, I don’t think it’s going to knock now.
                            Sounds like you have it sussed then John
                            Nothelle S2 Avant in restoration

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                            • #15
                              White washer sits on the top of the nut that holds the strut insert in place. Its used to stop the bump stop hitting the seal on the shock absorber. You must fit it.

                              I would also recommend a tool to tighten the nut cap like this. Using the correct torque will ensure you do not damage the shock. Damper securing ring to strut - 220Nm - needs special tool VAG2069 or similar.

                              Take note of the end of the tool its cut back on the inside so you do not damage the top seal on the shock.



                              From S2central:

                              Front Suspension Torque Settings & Nut/Bolt Part numbers
                              14th January 2008, 12:25

                              I've had this info at my fingertips from the factory manuals over the weekend so here goes -

                              Strut Top to Body (outer nyloc ) - 60Nm (needs VAG3078 or similar slotted 22mm and a hefty 7mm allen key with extension bar)

                              Strut Top Nut - 50Nm (needs special slotted tool - VW524 - use with 3078)

                              Track-Rod End (Nyloc) - 30Nm (17mm - note the FINE thread on this one)

                              Bottom Joint (Nyloc) - 50Nm (17mm with nut facing rear.
                              Three camber adjusting ribbed nuts on bottom joint - 65Nm

                              Link rod nuts (Nyloc)- 40Nm (17mm)

                              Wishbone to subframe bolts - 40Nm plus 180 degrees with vehicle on the ground (unless using Powerflex type bushes which can always rotate). These are stretch bolts which must be renewed on replacement.

                              Strut to hub carrier - 110Nm plus 90 degrees (22 or 24mm here - note the nuts face forwards on these). Also a stretch bolt that must be renewed.

                              Inner CV joint on front driveshaft to gearbox - 80Nm (M10 splined)

                              Front Hub bolt - 200Nm plus 90 degrees. Must be done with vehicle on the ground.

                              Damper securing ring to strut - 220Nm - needs special tool VAG2069 or similar

                              Paul

                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by orsum; 12th August 2019, 06:42. Reason: Added info

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