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  • Power Steering Pipe Troubles

    I've found myself in quite the situation after replacing the high-pressure line from the power steering pump to the steering rack. In order to remove the threaded nut on the high pressure line, I needed to make space and remove the return line. After several hours working the line I ended up using a small saw to cut through it.

    Now, new pipe is all nice and installed with new crush washers. Continuing on to install the return line - the banjo bolt somehow gets cross threaded. I'd really appreciate any thoughts on how to proceed. The space there behind the pedals is next to nil. It's painful. I've been trying to "re-thread" correctly my M14 banjo for over an hour or so and my fingers are numb and I think my neck is permanently damaged. Oddly the threads don't look too bad. Either way I have a replacement banjo bolt on the way. What to do about the threads!? I was searching and it seems like they make very short "pipe fitting" taps in M14x1.5 that I may be able to fit in than insanely small working space. My worry is that I'll be tapping blind. You cannot see anything and lining up is really just by eye. I'm not sure if I got a small mirror if that would even help.

    What are my options and this point. Find a shop who will do the work or worse, want to drop the whole rack?





    Nicholas
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    Last edited by nribs; 15 August 2021, 06:51.

  • #2
    Hi Sir,

    Yes, a very tight spot indeed. As you have grasped, on-axis alignment is crucial to chase a pre-existing thread. The tap also has to start at the exact same clock angle as the original, as it begins the first thread, which can be difficult. To create the conditions most likely to succeed, rack removal despite the difficulty, may be the best option. You may then want to hire out the repair. Perhaps also use the occasion to have the rack seals and boot replaced?

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    • #3
      Before you condem the threads, I often find it difficult to get a thread started in a tight spot, especially when it's connected to a rigid pipe that might not be pointing in the exact direction you need. Try again with the new banjo and concentrate on getting it true into the threads. Put a little grease on the threads which might help. Don't use a tool until you are certain it's properly threaded. Not easy in a tight spot so good luck. ​​​​​
      Nothelle S2 Avant
      Black Ur project
      Ocianic Ur project gone
      S2 Coupe project gone
      Urs6 plus project gone

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      • #4
        Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to wait on my new banjo and take more time and see if I can get it to move correctly. Another challenge is even in the "incorrect" threaded angle, it looks right. Dropping the rack wasn't really part of the "project" ​​​​​​. I'm worried touching the rack will set me back months. I only have time here and there to get stuff done.

        In terms of moving the car, with that return line on the rack open I obviously cannot start the car. Any thoughts on moving it. I need to have the car moved in the yard I'm at and not sure if I'll be able to get it out easily without power. Plugging it with a bung would starve the rack right? I'm not looking to drive around town, just move it around the yard under power. Remove power steering pump v-belt?

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        • #5
          What car are you working on?
          Nothelle S2 Avant
          Black Ur project
          Ocianic Ur project gone
          S2 Coupe project gone
          Urs6 plus project gone

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Tractor Dave View Post
            What car are you working on?
            7a I think?

            S2 Coupe 3B Project


            Ur quattro restoration

            S2 Avant

            Boost is the new rock and roll!
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            • #7
              Yes, it is 90 CQ w/ 7A

              20210811_201142 (Medium).jpg

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              • #8
                Very nice
                I personally wouldn't want to move it or the steering in its current state
                Nothelle S2 Avant
                Black Ur project
                Ocianic Ur project gone
                S2 Coupe project gone
                Urs6 plus project gone

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                • #9
                  Looking at going after this rack connection soon. Putting my game plan together. You folks would start with the thread chaser or go straight in with the tap?

                  I feel like the benefit of starting straight away with the chamfered tap is that I can get down a bit deeper into the hole where I know my threads are good.

                  I've already decided I won't be dropping the rack on this.
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                  • #10
                    Must be more difficult on a lhd. I did this from above on my rhd car in the engine bay. If you're going in with a tap, be absolutely sure it's straight. I use a Teng tap socket which allows the use of a ratchet because you'll have zero space for a tap handle
                    Mike

                    http://www.s2-audi.co.uk

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                    • #11
                      If you wear varifocals take them off!

                      S2 Coupe 3B Project


                      Ur quattro restoration

                      S2 Avant

                      Boost is the new rock and roll!
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Why not just take the rack off?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bowie69 View Post
                          Why not just take the rack off?
                          Mostly the pain, suffering, bouts of emotional collapse, desire for self-preservation, and overall hysteria that comes with an engine-in rack removal. Bit dramatic?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Mikes2 View Post
                            Must be more difficult on a lhd. I did this from above on my rhd car in the engine bay. If you're going in with a tap, be absolutely sure it's straight. I use a Teng tap socket which allows the use of a ratchet because you'll have zero space for a tap handle
                            There is no "going at it from above". This is the return line; port is situated laterally millimeters from the firewall.

                            Thanks for the note on the Teng socket. Sadly I don't believe there will be room for that. I likely will go with a very small lock plier.

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                            • #15
                              I wanted to share a brief update on my power steering situation from last fall. I ended up sourcing a used rack and sending it off to a reputable shop that rebuilds racks. The shop that removed and replaced the rack gave me a call today and said that unfortunately the rack exploded after installing it and bleeding the system. From what the shop says, it blew at the top plug. I think this is the fine adjustment screw. The shop had already put quite a a few hours into the whole ordeal. They dropped this news on me last night right before going into the weekend. I guess that means we'll punt next steps to Monday.

                              I'm curious to get thoughts from the group here over how this plays out. The shop that did the rebuild said they bench tested it to spec. They also warranty their work. Does this mean the rebuild shop is going to cover the time to R&R the rack, get it sent out and figure out the deal is? I'm at a loss for how a rack gets benched-tested to spec and then blows literally after 2 minute on the car.

                              I was very explicit with the rebuilder that they needed to use CHF11S for the rebuild and test. My speculation is that they *did not* and used some other fluid and thus, the failure. This is something that will need to be hashed out.

                              Interestingly, another Audi owner was at the shop and vouched for this rack rebuilder (specifically for old Audi) to my mechanic. Needless to say, the shop was in disbelief when the thing blew right away.

                              More details to come, but again, what are some scenarios which you can see playing out? I want to get ahead of this or at least know what my angle should be. I imagine the mechanic should deal directly with the rebuilder to sort it all out?

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