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Tie Rod adjusters

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  • Tie Rod adjusters

    After my recent problems with wheel alingment im after a machine shop or someone that is interested in building these parts for us.

    They are universal and can be used in all tie rods regardless of model and LHD or RHD.



    Apparently GSF and EUROCARPARTS do not have those pars as individual parts and AUDI only sells the tie rod as a whole for about 100GBP which includes the rod end as well.

    So if your tie rod end is seized and you are able to get it free with a gas torch or WD40 etc that is fine,you only end up needing possibly a rod end.

    However if it seizes on the inner aspect, the bolts and screws may be damaged when trying to get it out in which case the adjuster is damaged and you are left with no solution than getting the tie rod itself.(which is what i had to do today).

    So im thinking, making these adjusters shouldnt be a difficult job, and if we can find a machine shop and get a group buy, it might just work saving some money from needing new tie rods all the time.

    Also now that Rob can supply with uniball inner fittings, the rod itself can last for a long time.

    I will have within next week an adjuster that i can ship to anyone who has the means of doing this, to use as a template to copy.

    Is anyone interested in this?

  • #2
    Pm Sent

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    • #3
      Does anyone have any drawings off all the tie rods and adjusters used on a coupe, i might get a CNC prog done to knock a load up out of some HT steel maybe a 4140 grade or stainless if you recon they'd be alright.
      Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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      • #4
        that may work but as far as drawings the only ones i have are from ETKA. Probably in the technical manuals there may be details and lengths but it is a time consuming effort to gather them all

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        • #5
          The adjuster rod is available from Quinton Hazell, see Pauls request here

          http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpos...6&postcount=23

          I usually get them from Andrew Page so I gave them a ring this morning, they are going to ring me back on Monday when they have checked stock levels at QH. They quoted me about £6ea, I doubt you could get them machined from scratch and plated for less than that. I'll organise a GB if you like?
          sigpic
          1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
          1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
          1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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          • #6
            i wasnt aware that they are already being made by some company. Good to know though. Is there a specific code that the part is ordered in?

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            • #7
              Part number is QR5005S, this is what you get

              sigpic
              1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
              1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
              1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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              • #8
                i see. is that stainless?

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                • #9
                  No, zinc plated steel.
                  sigpic
                  1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
                  1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
                  1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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                  • #10
                    It's a shame that the part where you put the spanner on isn't a bit bigger, IE 17mm. The standard ones are only 14mm from memory, and they are prone to rounding off
                    S2 Avant......fully loaded :rock: :bow: Slipper Wagons Rule !!!!!

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                    • #11
                      when i change this part in the bottom of the car, or any screw under the car i use WOOD TARE, as a antizeise... no rustprobl or like this..
                      old people who had a boat by the see, use this in all scews...
                      i have used this in lorrys and dumptrucks, where they use salt , no prob

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                      • #12
                        can you give us an example of the tape you use and where to get it?

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                        • #13
                          Stainless steel would cause a lot of headache because of the galvanic incompatibility with the original materials.
                          Everything less than 2 bar is considered to be naturally aspirated

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                          • #14
                            I agree with Caterpillar, I don't think it's a tape though...

                            Perhaps the 'tar' he mentiones is similar to the non-hardening ashpalt based rust-proofing compound I use (comes in both a pot or spray-can) liberally on exactly this fastener and many others inside the fenders etc. My alignment guy appreciates that he doesn't have to spend time un-seizing these prior, it gets spent on just the job at hand. No rust means no rounded-off hex-heads either. No struggling with these means he's got time to be fussy on the numbers.

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                            • #15
                              Coat the whole assembly in THIS. As mentioned on another thread it really is amazing stuff. At Saltburn by the sea the Pier there has just been refurbished and each warrick and turb buckle has been wrapped in this stuff to protect them from the relentless pounding of the sea. We stored components outside for 10's of years coated in this exposed to the elements all the years and the product it protected once unwrapped came out like it was stored just yesterday.
                              Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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