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It's probably nearly as cheap to make the droplinks from scratch - using a threaded rod, cut to length with 4 rod ends.
The first link doesn't work for me so I can't see what you mean, but as for the die set, don't get that one, that's for threading large pipe. Get something like this. I know you can hire them at tool hire shops.
Painfully said goodbye to my baby....
2001 A4
Silver with black leather, Symphony, sport package, S4 bumper and wheels
U can install a S2 front ARB on the rear. And get an RS2 front ARB installed to the front of an S2?
Cheers
Yes - Tom (audiman) has done this.
You will need to swap over the suspension struts and modify/shorten the droplinks on the rear.
Front is a straight swap for RS2 ARB.
My way is different to Toms - you don't need to swap struts over(so you won't need the alignment done) but it is a a lot stiffer at the back - and using the Audi 20V Quattro front on the rear still requires different droplinks and these need shortened.
Doug, how are you finding it to drive? I love my setup, its made the back end a lot stiffer. I will have to stiffen the front shocks a bit, to try and dial in a bit less oversteer. It feels very stable at high speeds, cornering at 120 mph feels safe with no twitching (i dont mean 90 deg. bends!!).
Looking at the pics of my s2 and others going round castle combe, my car stays a lot flatter than others.
sigpic
Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
Audi UR Quattro
Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm
I can't beleive how flat my car stays - I go round roundabouts like its a kart - easy to control the rear sliding - I never thought these big heavyweights could feel so nimble.
I haven't driven like a nutter becasue I am getting the droplinks shortened - tomorrow hopefully - and my front wheels are rubber under heavy braking - need a bit machined. Also waiting for my big hole in my turbo hose to be fixed then I'll tell you what it really feels like to go through a hedge backwards :eek2:
Eventually manged to get sober enough to fit the modified droplinks.
I will be very impressed if anyone manages to thread a 10mm bar with a hand tool. I cheated and took it into my work.
Here's a pic of the shortened droplinks. After I did this I thought of a chepaer way to do it - Use the orignal droplink cut in half - then shorten it a bit more and thread both bars - now all you have to do is buy is a threaded (internally) bar.
nice job doug, i think using a machine to thread the bar is the way to go, never liked using dies n stuff as always on the piss etc
so does a different length bar produce different results or as long as it clears everything is all that matters.
I can't see how the length of the droplinks should not make a difference (Does it anyone?)
I had to change the length so the ARB didn't touch (rub) the wishbones. They are just short enough now that when it's jacked up they don't touch. I need to go over a few humps to see if everything is clear - hopefully this week
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