Power Flex rear diff mount install

[Error404]

yeah but you have to buy it complete with the alloy housing too circa £100 - 895 599 125

[willg54]

Dan,
im doing the same on mine right now, complete back end rebuild. I just ordered the diff bushes from pete at Quattro Corner. 2 were £15 and one was £35. He didnt say anything about needing the entire alloy housing...i hope you dont need it!

You coming to the design review tonight? Cheers for sorting the brakes out!

Will

[Rusty]

Old grey matter working away but isn't the diff bush the same as a mk.1 engine mount (RHS)? Not got a family album here to check that on. Might be something else that I'm thinking of...

[Error404]

similar, but IIRC on the golf one the hole is offset

[sjw185]

Had a chance for a drive but not a real test as spinning in all gears
On opening and closing throttle quickly clunk and shunt is almost gone, but would say that there is a bit more noise transmitted to the cabin.
Not going to get a true picture until the weather gets better but i like it

cheers

Steve

[QuattroFever]

anyone know the allen bolt sizes needed before starting.

[QuattroFever]

bolts are 8mm allen and 17mm for the center bolt.

Do you have to drop the subframe?

Cant see a way to swing this badboy out!

[Error404]

You don't need to drop the subframe. Its is a real PITA without taking the outer CVs out of the hubs, but it IS possible.
Its much eaier if you take one of the outer CVs out of the hub. then just pull / push the diff housing forward and drop it down. Simples

Bolts:

Brackets to diff housing
10 x M10x30 Allen
2 x M10x108 Allen (i used M10x100)

1 x M10x95 Hex Diff Mount
1 x M10x110 Hex Diff mount
1 x M10x85 Hex Rear mount bolt

HTH
Alex

[QuattroFever]

Got it off! The original mount has gaps and tears in it and i managed to turn it sideways so that the tip of one of the lugs that had the center bolt going through poke in that gap.
going to be fun to try and put it back with the powerflex bush in there though.

Ill try removing the cv i think, save some swearing.

[Error404]

its actually easier to put back on with the PF mount as it doesn't flex so slips between the two "uprights" on the subframe much easier - copperease is your friend

[QuattroFever]

finaly got round to fitting it this eve, my two upright tabs had been pulled inwards from a previous overtightening excersize at some point. Had to use a massive valve key (hook) to lever it apart while i forced the bush in.

Ended up dropping the rear of the subframe to get the whole lot back in place by undoing the two rearmost mount bolts (18mm) and pulling it down.
First impressions are great, no noticeable noise in the cabin, maybe with a standard exhaust you might hear something but IMO no difference. perfect!

[Holliday06877]

I mounted a pf rear snub a couple months ago along with an 034 engine snub. Was hoping to get the clunk and shunt out of the drive train. Needless to say not much better. Don't notice much more NVH though. I have stock rear diff mounts (new) and 034 street density engine and front diff mounts. Was thinking of going with delrin motorsports diff mounts all around. Do you guys think that will help with the clunk? would love to get this thing locked down.

[Fat Audi 80]

You will need to check front snub mount and also gearbox mount (easy to change) in order to remove all shunt from the drivetrain....

[Rusty]

Clunk may be driveshaft centre bearing

[Holliday06877]

Thanks for the feed back. What is the easiest way to check the drive prop bearing? Just get under and jiggle the prop around?

What should I check on the front snub? It is brand new.

Has anyone used solid delrin for the gear box/diff mounts?