Rear Sub Frame Refresh

**s2driveruk** · 1 March 2011, 21:46

you won't be alone Dan, I need to get my rear subframe blasted.

Pretty easy to drop it as one complete unit, just need to crack off and separate the prop from the diff and likewise with the inner driveshafts off the diff cups.

I have found it easier in the past to get the subframe bushes pushed out at a local garage - cost me less than £20 and easier than messing about cutting or burning IMO.

I wouldn't worry about the rear topmounts as they take very little abuse compared to the fronts. My blues which had been there 4-5years when i replaced them looked almost new and non-compressed, i could honestly have saved the time and money. If they haven't been replaced before then could still make sense and those HD ones would be fine I'm sure.

Cheers
david

**Fat Audi 80** · 2 March 2011, 09:16

I think you have already chosen the right spec Dan. I have exactly what you describe on my car, which I did in 2009. Don't be under any illusions though, if you are doing this on your back in a single garage is it a ****ing 'mare of a job. It took me two weeks of evenings and weekends.

I stripped my rear subframe out completely as I didn't want to muck about taking the diff off. The main problem I had was getting everying undone, particularly the rear diff mount both that had completely rusted up and had to be cut out by hand.

David makes a good point about the old subframe bushes, they are pain to get out without a press and I made a real mess with heat and drill bits etc. Much better to pay a local garage to press them out in 10 mins.

However the results are worth it, I have the spec you describe (including powerflex wishbone bushes)and don't feel as though it is any harsher at all, but does feel solid and more planted at the back. I am just trying to summon up the courage
to do the same at the front.

Also, don't forget to double check which way round the Supaflex subrame bushes sit, there is a chamfered side to one half that is designed to allow access to wishbone bolts, if you get them the wrong way round it is hard to do those bolts up...

Best of luck.

Cheers,

Steve

**willg54** · 2 March 2011, 10:48

Im in the middle of doing it now.

I took the subframe and wishbones to Redditch Sandblasters and Powder coaters. Used them before and very reputable for vintage restoration work. Going to get Carl or Lee to seam weld my wishbones too

Im only getting them sand blasted and painting the subframe and wishbones in POR15, the rest is getting powder coated.

There is a alternative to the wishbone bushes similar to the top mounts, Pete at QC supplies them. Same principle, kind of a mid-way house between oem and superflex.

Id second the wishbone bush removal comment, complete PITA to get out...Or if you're going oem bushes, just buy a new wishbone. doesnt cost much more IIRC and comes with bushes pre-installed!

**Dpicariello** · 2 March 2011, 22:39

@Steve: I re-read your thread on your sub frame removal and remembered how tough it was and also how the anger was well described!
Yes, i'll be on my back in a single garage and have prepared myself for a tough slog. I have taken the days off between the royal wedding and Easter so should have over a week where I can concentrate on getting stuff done.

@Will: I'd forgotten about Redditch Shotblasters. Only heard good things about them so reckon they could well be worth using.

I'll take the advice of getting a garage to remove the bushes.

@David: You could be right with the top mounts. It may be more hassle than it's worth as there's no clunking from there. My only reason is that I've never touched the back end of my car in the time I have owned it (not needed to) whereas the front has been completely rebuilt.

Dan

**willg54** · 2 March 2011, 23:07

I've had work there before and you can't fault it. The quality of the work is amazing. He has all of my stuff at the moment and a second batch on the way when the front subframe is out. If you call and mention s2 he'll know and will be more than willing to help! Top bloke! Fairly quick turn around, for my 24 items, wanted 10 days!

One thing is recommend, get some wd40 or similar into the chassis member for the subframe mounts. There is a small hole up there. You don't want the nut breaking inside the chassis. I had a head break off one stud...still yet to extract it...

**willg54** · 9 March 2011, 22:58

Dan,

If you want some superflex rear subframe bushes, I have a set!

Cheers

Will

**Error404** · 10 March 2011, 11:01

another vote for Redditch Shot Blasting, I used them loads when i lived in Kings Heath, top work

IMHO dropping the rear subframe is not a bad job at all if you have a decent trolley jack and some axles stands to get the car a decent height off the deck.
I would recommend changing the topmounts while you're in there, as its a 5 minutes job per side with the subframe off and for the sake of £20.......

There will never be a better time to replace the fuel and brake hardlines too

**Jamo** · 10 March 2011, 11:42

Originally posted by Error404

another vote for Redditch Shot Blasting, I used them loads when i lived in Kings Heath, top work

IMHO dropping the rear subframe is not a bad job at all if you have a decent trolley jack and some axles stands to get the car a decent height off the deck.
I would recommend changing the topmounts while you're in there, as its a 5 minutes job per side with the subframe off and for the sake of £20.......

There will never be a better time to replace the fuel and brake hardlines too

I know of them but I used to use Bournes in Brum city centre.

Having done both on a Coupe and Avant I wish you luck and patience and fair bit of wiggling

**Fat Audi 80** · 10 March 2011, 12:28

Originally posted by Error404

IMHO dropping the rear subframe is not a bad job at all if you have a decent trolley jack and some axles stands to get the car a decent height off the deck.

You obviously havent tried this in an 9ft wide single garage where you can't even get a jack under each side of the car. It takes me between an hour and two hours just to get the car up in the air on axle stands. Don't start me off about the contorsionism required to get underneath the car. Then you realise you have got under there with the wrong tool and have to reverse your body back out. Almost the worst two weeks of my life.

I have just started doing the same on the front.

**Error404** · 10 March 2011, 13:28

ok fair enough Steve, I've never done it Tetris style!

**Dpicariello** · 10 March 2011, 19:10

I had a trial run at it this week in that I started trying to break bolts loose (one by one on the sub frame as I didn't want to **** up my alignment).

All 4 subframe bolts came undone fine and my anti roll bar clamps also came away fine (seen a few horror storied of these shearing off). Side diff mounts also came away OK but I may as well leave them until the subframe is off.

The only bolts I didn't try were to free the diff as I needed the car today and so had to get everything back together.

I'm ordering stuff from Pete @ Quattro Corner tomorrow. Gonna go for standard wishbone bushes and diff bushes but think I'm going to try solid aluminium sub frame mounts from Bambridge as that seems to be a nice combination after reading a huge amount of feedback on here.

Any tips for getting the diff free?

I will make sure I get the car as high as possible when I come to do it. I hate jacking the S2 up, it's so bloody heavy and I hate using the sills. I've never put axle stands on the sills, guess I'm gonna have to this time though.

**Fat Audi 80** · 10 March 2011, 19:20

Sounds like you are taking your time and have most of the details worked out. I did not take the diff off so can't offer any advise there. Don't forget you will need a 3 leg puller to remove the ball joints from the control arms (unless you take the control arms off the sub frame, but mine wouldn't budge)!

I seem to remember putting my axle stands on the reinforced "inner" sill for want of a better word. I certainly wont go outside the welded seam next to the sill.

Good luck when you finally commit yourself. There is no going back once the car is up in the air on axle stands and nearly all the subframe bolts are out!

Cheers,

Steve

**s2driveruk** · 10 March 2011, 20:01

Dan, are you leaving the Diff and prop attached and dropping the subframe, wishbones and arb?

If you are leaving it on the car so to speak, then you need to crack off the rear diff mount bolt which depending how it looks might be easy or a nightmare as they get well cruded up...I'd soak it in some penetrating fluid or plusgas etc?

Failing that you'll need to disconnect the vac lines x2 and then remove the inner driveshaft bolts and the 6 cap head bolts on the rear cv of the prop...which will mean you need to tie up the prop or risk messing up the universal joint. of course then your well into 'i could replace the centre bearing on the prop......can of worms

**andy10v** · 10 March 2011, 21:09

If you are taking off the diff then make sure to decide how you are locking the prop/driveshafts to undo the bolts before you remove to many parts.

Rear Sub Frame Refresh

Rear Sub Frame Refresh

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