Changing inserts

[spink]

did you do what did and drill a hole in the bottom of the strut/drift big hammer/weld up?

That was after struggling for half a day trying just about everything else

erm not quite,put strut back on car,wound the nut onto the shocker and attached an engine crane to the shaft through the hole,pumped up the crane,car lifted off floor briefly before shocker came out of strut,it went with quite a bang aswell.

[Lago Blue]

What has worked for me, no torches required...

I agree with much of what was said above saving the fire part. This method is an attempt to apply more light than heat in order to save time, effort and cost on removal of the OEM installed strut-caps which retain the dampers. First attachment is a photo of the "factory tool"'s working end to engage the OEM cap top's internal hex when the damper's rod is in the way (tool is also shown in the Bentley). Not having that tool myself either, if it may help, what I do is described in here:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...ight=strut+cap

Follow the links back for further detail including a TSB on a change to re-installation torque. Explained is the reason why it is unlikely one will get penetrating oil in between the two (if not recently un-fused) part's threaded surfaces unless one cuts a slot or three, at least down to the roots of the cap's internal threads as explained below. This cutting will both create the holes that allow the "penetrating oil" in; and release the pressure between the two rusted parts.

Basically, as usually found, it is necessary to unlock the cap before attempting to turn it, otherwise damage may occur.

Because the cap is round, the tool of choice is often a pair of Stillsons a.k.a. a pipe-wrench. One needs to recognize that this is not the correct tool for the job, hence the (usually absent) factory tool. It is aptly named though, it is for turning schedule pipe which is quite strong in comparison to strut tube; and may better resist the Stillson' s over-riding design feature (a feature also shared by chain-wrenches and strap-wrenches):

"Pipe Fitting Wrenches
The numerous wrenches used in pipe fitting may be listed as follows:

- Monkey wrench
- Pipe wrench
--Stillson wrench (note on terminology: A Stillson wrench, a.k.a.a pipe wrench, is often called "a pair of Stillson's" exactly how one would say "a pair of scizzors" and I believe for exactly the same reason, the two parts work against one another. So actually that older naming convention better illustrates the understanding of the tool's inherent operation).
--Chain wrench
--Strap wrench
- Open wrench

The important point to remember in pipe fitting is to select a suitable wrench for the job at hand, Each of the aforementioned wrenches is designed for one or more specific tasks. No wrench is suitable for every task in pipe fitting.

A monkey wrench has smooth parallel jaws that are especially adapted for hexagonal valves and fittings. Not only does it fit better on the part to be turned, it also doesn't have the crushing effect of a pipe wrench.

The operating principle of a pipe wrench is simple. The harder you pull, the tighter it squeezes the pipe. The pipe wrench was designed for use on pipe and screw fittings only. On parallel-sided objects, it's efficiency is not up to that of a monkey wrench, and its squeezing action can do a great deal of damage.

Many experienced fitters have learned from experience that using a pipe wrench too large for the job can cause the fitting to...(pick your descriptor)" (from: AudelHVAC Fundamentals: Volume 2: Heating System Components, Gas ..., Volume 2
By James E. Brumbaugh).

However, as a pipe wrench is likely going to be the wrench of 1st & last resort, one must take the necessary steps to minimize it's use.

Because this is a task that can easily be taken too far, I would recommend one use a manual hack-saw to make the diagonal cuts and don't over-do it.

Second attachment is a drawing illustrating a typical machine thread in section and labeled to show root, crest and flank elements, etc. Third attachment is another drawing to show the interface of two mated parts in section and the voids at the thread roots that once exposed, are going to allow the oil in. It will then creep across the flanks to the inner roots; and the caps will spin off without nearly as much drama.

A little thread design. "An intentional clearance is created between mating threads when the nut and bolt are manufactured. This clearance is known as the allowance. Having an allowance ensures that when the threads are manufactured there will be a positive space between them. For fasteners, the allowance is generally applied to the external thread." Otherwise the flanks would bind and gall on installation when new. The flanks are where you want your Lok-tite, anti-seize or oil to function.

Additional clearance exists even between the two parts as the crests on one part and the roots on the other have separate design diameters which keep them apart even when torqued (see third attachment). This (crescent-shaped) air-space will resemble two concentric coils circling around the entire interface. It is into the outermost of these two thread-root voids (of the strut-caps internal threads) that you must cut to un-lock a rust-bound cap. You will want to cut into them from the outside diameter, in. Your hack-saw blade groove will intersect with the cut thread roots and create the row of holes visble in the bottom of the cut groove where the oil can get in; and then flow where it's needed. Thusly weakened (when the cut is taken to the lower edge of the installed cap OD), the caps also then spring open (their diameter, having been cut into sections, they immediately grow outward) helping to break any rust bonding; and improving clearances. This greatly reduces the torque required to remove said caps; and reduces the chance of deforming the more precious strut-tubes in the process.

Once having done this, you can appreciate that one wants to assemble things so rust does not take place here again,

Note on re-iinstallation of the OEM cap. I have not ever done this! I have only installed Bilsteins which have their own cap, wrench and issues to attend. But I can see that the factory tool would be ideal to achieve the reco'd torque if working off the car. If no factory tool is used, I wonder how the target torque is achieved and caution again about the use of a pipe wrench cause this ain't pipe.