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  • Front ball joints

    I jut bought some new balljoints & TREs for my coupe.
    While I was shopping I noticed there were two different styles of front ball joint and I wondered why Audi changed them? I've never heard of a failure, so I assume there is a difference depending on whether they are designed for the pressed or forged arms.

    These are the cheaper 8A0 407 366 / 365 joints. Not sure if its an optical illusion but they look slightly "longer" and might give more camber adjustment range. They do look a lot less substantial than those below.




    These are the more expensive 895 407 365 A / 366 A joints:




    Looks to me that the 895 designation joints are designed for use with the forged wishbones as they have the knurled surface to offer some purchase on the bottom of the wishbone. They also look much stronger so I'm guessing in conjunction with the forged wishbones they were intended to form a heavier duty set-up.

    Just a theory but if people have had problems with the ball joint slipping with the forged wishbones it may be they have the wrong type of balljoint.
    Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
    Indigo ABY coupé
    Imola B6 S4 Avant

  • #2
    may there are some difference of with or without servo steering.... and this item are expencive too...you will find this in some audi 80 diesels 91-93 too and asymetric wishbone in pressed plate versons... and there are differet tap too... one are the 19mm, and the second pic are 21mm(??)

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    • #3
      My understanding is that the top one is for pressed wishbones, and the lower one is for the cast wishbones. Each is fine for it's respective wishbone ime.

      HTH.



      Last edited by macspring; 29 March 2014, 15:40.

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      • #4
        Apologies for reviving an old thread, just had my cast wishbones shot blasted and painted, only one has the push bolts in and I have no ball joints.
        Would this be what I am after, it seems impossible to obtain the correct bolts in the UK, this is the best price I have found for them. Works out at £40 each delivered...
        http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-90-Fron...item19e39098ef
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Have a read here

          http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71128
          Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
          Indigo ABY coupé
          Imola B6 S4 Avant

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          • #6
            893407745A - press fit bolt okay..........!

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            • #7
              Nla!
              Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
              Indigo ABY coupé
              Imola B6 S4 Avant

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              • #8
                OK... so the ball joints are correct but the bolts I need are the following correct?
                http://www.ecstuning.com/ES424745/
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Did you read the thread I linked to above?
                  Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                  Indigo ABY coupé
                  Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                  • #10
                    Sorry mate didnt see your last post, you legend!
                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      I can speak from experience that B4 sedan front three-bolt ball joints are different from Coupe20v. The sedan front ball joints position the strut assembly further forward for increased caster. Not alot mind but it is measurable. With offset subframe bushings & B4 ball joints I was able to get about 4.0 to 4.5 degrees of caster in the front of my USA spec Coupe 20valve.
                      Chris
                      "Nulla tenaci invia est via"

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                      • #12
                        I think the US market CQs got the older style ball joints which AFAIK were superceded by the higher (lower) offset ones in about 1989.
                        Certainly for all the cqs and S2s over here I've never seen the reduced castor joints fitted.
                        Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                        Indigo ABY coupé
                        Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                        • #13
                          Any idea about the part number of the older, "less castor" style ball joints A1QSHIP is talking about?

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                          • #14
                            I did look at the cast wishbones and consider swapping L & R joints and then using the offset bushes to move the subframe backwards, to make it more sensible
                            Cheers'en, AndyC
                            1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Rusty View Post
                              I did look at the cast wishbones and consider swapping L & R joints and then using the offset bushes to move the subframe backwards, to make it more sensible
                              Before I made my own offset bushings I swapped the front ball joints left-to-right. Front wheels sat well forward in the fender opening. I was seeing over 6 degrees of caster but the front driveshafts contacted the chassis & the stock 205/60/15 tires rubbed thru the forward section of the fender liners. Sounds like a good idea to move the subframe rearwards with the ball joints swapped. This has been done before (by SpeedingG60?) at the rear to center the wheel in the wheel arch when using the forged/cast front control arms to replace the stamped steel ones .
                              Chris
                              "Nulla tenaci invia est via"

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