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  • #16
    Ball Joint Comparison

    Dug up these photos. You can better see the difference here.

    Attached Files
    Last edited by A1QSHIP; 4 September 2014, 03:52.
    "Nulla tenaci invia est via"

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Rusty View Post
      I did look at the cast wishbones and consider swapping L & R joints and then using the offset bushes to move the subframe backwards, to make it more sensible
      My idea is to swap L & R the ball joints but use the less offset ones, so it's more sensible, like you say. But to compensate for the wheel going too far forward I'm thinking about welding adjustable camber/castor plates and moving the top mounts as far backwards as I can to compensate (using coilovers so I have enough clearance because of the smaller diameter springs).

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      • #18
        There's a lot of rear clearance in the strut towers, I was only looking the other day
        Cheers'en, AndyC
        1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss

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        • #19
          Indeed, especially with coilover springs

          EDIT:

          The works cars and specifically in this picture Niki Zlatkov's Prospeed S1 car show how much

          Last edited by afterburner; 4 September 2014, 09:27.

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          • #20
            Just been looking at my 'new' wishbones and balljoints. It seems that I have the earlier, more offset version on there.

            The design does strike me as rather odd, with the wishbone being so heavily offset and then the balljoint going the other way.
            Cheers'en, AndyC
            1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss

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            • #21
              Part numbers of the more offset joints - 893 407 365E / 366E.

              Looks like the offset is about 5mm behind the rearmost mounting hole, as opposed to it being inline.
              Cheers'en, AndyC
              1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss

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              • #22
                Got 2x TRW joints from mister-auto for £57 delivered

                Was rather confused when I opened up the packets, as the two look totally different, even down to the nuts and bolt in the pack but on closer inspection, they are both TRW. Interestingly, one is marked with the Audi part number and the other is not. The Audi marked one is of higher quality, so I'd guess that TRW have changed supplier after Audi cancelled any more orders

                Need to get them all fitted now!!!

                Just the front and rear bushes to sort at some point then, as the OE cast front wishbone bushes are much stiffer, so I'll leave them for now and as I'll blatantly kill a rear ball joint boot when taking it all apart for the first time in 8 years, I'll leave that too
                Cheers'en, AndyC
                1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss

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                • #23
                  Just a quick update to this, be aware of counterfeit TRW ball joints!
                  The pair I bought and fitted this time last year are ****ed after 4k miles. I've noticed a clunking and vague steering over the last couple hundred miles. I Finally found a minute today to look into it and there is about about 2mm of lateral play in them both.
                  Now I need to find another pair before Friday so I can get to ADI. ****ed off is an understatement.
                  Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                  Indigo ABY coupé
                  Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                  • #24
                    It might not be about counterfit parts. Many times the problem seems to be that the joint is bone dry and the only small bit of grease is high up in the boot and the joint will wear out before getting any lubrication. You really have to open up the boot and have a look inside before installing the parts. I found this out when I started having problems with tie rod ends lasting less than a years worth of driving. I bought three rod ends, expensive "known good" one, mid priced one and the cheapest one. I took off the protective rubber boots and all of them were the same. Small bit of grease high up in the boot and bone dry joint. So I put more grease in the joint and moved it around to spread it, put the boot back on and installed the rod end. This was some years ago and I haven't had any problems with tie rod ends after that.

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                    • #25
                      Good tip. I will have a look into it when I get my new joints. It will be interesting to see if the worn ones have adequate grease in there.
                      Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                      Indigo ABY coupé
                      Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                      • #26
                        Yep source of a low speed thunk ...Oem balljoint fooked in less than 5k miles grrrrrrrrrrrr will try the lube trick as sounds sensible thanks
                        sigpic

                        1992 3b S2 Coupe

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                        • #27
                          What type of grease would you recommend for the balljoint? CV joint grease or something else?

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                          • #28
                            I'll be using that or some plastilube which stops brake squeal but is nice and heavy...
                            sigpic

                            1992 3b S2 Coupe

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                            • #29

                              Finally someone executed the ball joint from the left to the right and vice versa with reference 893407366E? I would like to know if with those ball joints, which are more "centered", you can exchange and win casters. Thanks.

                              REGARDS

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                              • #30
                                Waje,

                                I'm not sure I understand your 1st question sir, but as for 893407366E, that P/N looks to be the earlier 'less centered' 3-bolt joint (for less caster) that may be correct for a 1990 20v Q sedan's pressed arm on the front axle. Link to 7zap's listing for this part:

                                https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+80...407-37020/#17A

                                To your 2nd question, perhaps not with this P/N joint, but the joint you require really depends on what car and what A-arm you may have. Perhaps this thread would prove helpful:

                                https://www.s2forum.com/forum/technical/suspension-steering/2060841-3-bolt-ball-joint-versions-and-related-info-a-more-definitive-guide/page1





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