Tool for Front strut cap nut

[John B]

Tube socket (33mm) for removing shock insert cap nut

I used a Matra 33mm tool (VAG2069A) for a 1/2" drive and this one tool did front and rear on my coupe. It was bought from Samstag in the US http://www.samstagsales.com/ I had to use a tube around a long bar and lots of heat, swearing and persuasion!

[Lago Blue]

Two distinct tasks here - a) Nuts off; & b) Nuts on...

Although related by location, it may be helpful to recognize that due to their disparate goals, each best requires different tools and techniques.

The goal of a first-time OEM nut removal ought to be above all, perfect strut-tube preservation. Whereas nut install puts a cap on preserving your entire careful strut re-assembly, best ensuring it won't need revisiting soon, particularly as this item is really buried once back on the car. Done thoroughly, when and if it does need a re-visit, it will go much better.

Down the road, other issues may arise where it will be comforting to be able to glance in here at your carefully match-marked (with a dab of contrasting-colour paint) assembly and absolutely know all is still well.

a) Nuts off: Strut tube cap-nut removal. If this is a near original installation being taken apart, this 1st task is best -not- attempted with the factory tool alone, as it may become damaged (particularly likely if the tool is borrowed!), and so may you.

If you don't mind replacing them with new ones just this once, you may prefer:

How to successfully and easily get your nuts off. Please read Para 2 at link below regarding a quick, no torches & low-effort alternative method that does not even require the factory tool:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpos...78&postcount=1

b) Nuts on: Strut tube cap-nut install & torque. This is where the factory tool (or similar) really should be used (IMHO even though I have only ever converted to Bilsteins at this point many times. But even for stock nut re-installation, please see starting with para 3 in above linked article.

(Note: The secondary benefit to using the above linked "nuts off easy" method is that as a by-product, you convert your old nuts into thread-chasing dies that do the absolute best job possible of helping you restore the tube threads to like-new condition, the better to receive Loctite & rust-proofing. The nuts are much more easily replaced than the thin strut tubes which can be easily damaged by brute force; or by skin otherwise removed.)

Crush-type wrenches, use of excessive force or torches here on a 1st removal since new or a similarly seized strut cap-nut are in my view a crude substitute for actual finesse and fore-thought.

[90quattrocoupe]

Since the regular coupe uses a different diameter front strut than the S2, you need both the larger and smaller Audi tool, if not working on an S2. I purchased these removal tools years ago and they have been a god sent. Easiest way to get off the strut caps. They have also come in handy at the junkyard when pulling old struts. Only have to pay for the strut tube instead of strut and shock. They work well with a cordless impact. As an added bonus, the tool for the front, works on B2s and the front struts on VWs.

I do other peoples strut cap removal and charge a couple of bucks. The tools are paid for now.

Before, I bought the tools, I used a big pipe wrench. One time, this caused the strut tube to become oval shaped.

Greg W.

[S2central.net]

a) Strut tube nut removal: If this is a near original installation being taken apart, this 1st task is best -not- attempted with the factory tool, as it may become damaged (particularly likely if tool is borrowed), and so may you.



If you don't mind replacing them with new ones just this once, you may prefer:

How to successfully and easily get your nuts off:

Please read Para 2 at link below re a quick, no torches & low-effort method:



http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpos...78&postcount=1



b) Strut tube nut install & torque: This is where the factory tool should be used (IMHO even though I have only ever converted to Bilsteins at this point many times. But even for stock nut re-installation, please see starting with para 3 in above linked article.



(Note: The secondary benefit to using the above linked "nuts off easy" method is that as a by-product, you convert your old nuts into thread-chasing dies that do the absolute best job possible of helping you restore the tube threads to like-new condition, the better to receive Loctite & rust-proofing. The nuts are much more easily replaced than the thin strut tubes which can be easily damaged by force; or skin otherwise removed.)



Wrenches/Torches here on 1st removal since new are in my view a crude substitute for actual technique and fore-thought.

Wow there is a lot of good detail in that referenced thread - appreciate that - have to read it thoroughly. I certainly don't want to butcher my struts - hoping they can be converted into KW coo lovers.

[LHD_Kid]

I remember somebody on the forum wedged the steering arm into a metal drain in the street

I got some pipe, welded a big nut on each end then ground one nut to make the corners "sharp" and dremelled the thread out to make the hole in the centre a little bigger. The untouched nut the other end fits in a socket, works perfectly...

[S2central.net]

I followed the advice of Lago Blue today and it's really easy. Takes about 15 mins each side after spring is out of the way.

Once I saw the threads with the hacksaw work on the cap nut it was a simple of case of applying some PlusGas into the threads and attaching the 2069A tool to a good impact wrench and hey ho off it goes.

Brilliant.

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[Macchris]

n the French Audi board we have someone who built this for us :


not yet tested the strut tool but the timing belt block system yes and it works great

[Davi123]

looks like this tool is NLA even from Samstage. Anyone have any ideas? Is my only option welding a 33mm nut to a long tube? Any selling one? Thanks

Tube socket (33mm) for removing shock insert cap nut

I used a Matra 33mm tool (VAG2069A) for a 1/2" drive and this one tool did front and rear on my coupe. It was bought from Samstag in the US http://www.samstagsales.com/ I had to use a tube around a long bar and lots of heat, swearing and persuasion!

[Tractor Dave]

I made a tool just like that and it works well. Just make a lip on the nut so it doesn't sink in too deep and damage the shock absorber seal.

[Davi123]

Thanks Dave

[K Simmonds]

I made a tool using a bit of tube about '1/300mm long, welded a nut the right size for the inside of the top cap nut on to one end and used an a big old imperial 1/2" drive socket for the other end, welded inside the tube.

I can change a front damper on all B3/4 and C3/4 cars as well as various old VW's without jacking the car up or removing the spring by pulling the old damper out through hole in the body at the top of the inner wing and inserting the new one down through the same hole. Can do one in about 1/2 an hour.

Rear dampers often require the strut to be removed as there's bit's of body in the way...

Using Stilsons/big pipe wrench is a really bad way of doing the job, the jaw's of the tool compress the body of the nut, distorting it and making it even tighter.

[Davi123]

Thanks. Car sub frames are coming off so got it all lifted anyway. Just been looking for materials. Tube is no problem but I thought I read the VAG tool had a 33mm hex but that size seems to be non standard. Measuring the old nut it looks like 33mm to me. Can you remember what size you used? Cheers

[Davi123]

Looking at the charts I think I need an M22 nut

[jeffstoo]

If it helps this is how I did mine. M22 nylonc nut which is 35mm across flats, reduced to 33mm, open out centre to 25mm with a chamfer to clear the seal as Dave says. Weld onto one end of steel tube with 1/2” drive socket welded to the other and you’re good to go. I think you can get M22 lug nuts which are 33mm across flats which would save some work. You could just use the nut and a big spanner but you wouldn’t be able to torque the cap back to spec.

[Davi123]

Thanks Jeff, great idea about the lug nuts, found some on HGV direct which are 33mm. They also sell an M22 hex nut that’s long and hollow, it may actually work with a ring spanner and save me getting something welded up.