Alloy Top Mounts

[maRS2]

Hi Alistair

It hapen when going on a sharp bump.
When going of a sharp bump no noise but the feeling like not having any damper.
On smooth bump even big slow bump's every thing normal no noise.
it's me who fitted evrything: top mount, bushes, bilstein damper, etc
I took of the full front suspension 3 time to check if something was wrong.
I took after the car for wheel alignement with - 1 deg 25 of camber

Thanks for the the help
Fabien

[puppetman]

how much are these top mounts

[mcandmar]

Funny you should mention it yes i did! Passenger side only, only happens like you say after hitting a large hump as the wheel comes back down.

I had a look at the weekend and re-torqued everything from subframe up and it went away, It’s worth noting you have to re-torque the ring that holds the upper mount to the car a few times as it was a little lose on mine after a few miles. I guess it’s just the paint on the wheel arch getting compressed.

Keep an eye on the top nut too, I’m not happy with the fact it isn’t a locking nut so I’m checking it every week or so incase is works lose also. If that nut comes off the strut it will all come apart and do serious damage as there is no locking ring above the spring perch to hold it all together with these mounts.

Other place to check is the strut cap that hold the shock into the strut, I’ve had one of them back off too which caused a rattle over slow speed bumps.

If you have a big clonk I would go check everything and re-torque, Even with standard top mounts I found you had to re-torque the top nuts a few times after fitting as everything settles. They are a little noisy as they work the shock that bit harder but you shouldnt have a rattle or clonk, something else aint right.

Mark.

MACANDMAR Any Starnge noise with those.
I have a set of those QRS and evry time I get on big sharp bump I have a big "CLONCK" noise

[RoadKill]

you can get them from QRsport blue and red http://www.qrsport.com/

[Ski]

I have these installed along with all 16 (or however many there are) of QRS finest bushes all round.

I can say they are excellent, although, as I live in an area where the roads of VERY bumpy they get irratating after time. I just got used to driving slower over bumps and wholes in the ground and problem solved

I too get a clonking noise when I drive too fast over some wholes, i guess its my old 180k shocks.

[Alistair E]

I have the top mounts available for £164.50 per set including vat. This is a group buy price which is £10 plus vat cheaper than QRS are selling them.
At present, the amounts are only available in blue. If you are interested, drop me a pm.

Cheers

Alistair

[maRS2]

I ve tight every thing like crazy 1meter extension
but still got the noise.
I just went again for a test on some sharp speed bump at 50KM/H and it's a huge BANG or TOC that I get when I hit it.
Then I made same test same speed arriving on the brake no noise.
So I think it's might be the wishbone moving back as every thing is hard now I should may be move to Powerflex Bushes.
Then I took the SUBARU of my brother (lowered with eicbach&KONI) and even at crazy 100Km/h no noise and the wheel stick to the ground.
I will take tomorow the strut out for the 4th time and look if their is any mark of something touching.

Ps mcandmar: my top nut was unscrewing all the time I find out that it was the bottom side of the srew(the 6 summit of the exagonal) touching in to the bottom of the alloy I grind those edge at 45° so they don't tuch any more and now they stay tight.

[mcandmar]

Likewise the a-arms do flop around now, i can see marks from the bushings on the subframe as the a-arm moves back and forth with accel/braking. I was thinking about powerflex bushings too :mischeif:

Which subframe mounts are you using? rubber or alloy?

Mark.

I ve tight every thing like crazy 1meter extension
but still got the noise.
I just went again for a test on some sharp speed bump at 50KM/H and it's a huge BANG or TOC that I get when I hit it.
Then I made same test same speed arriving on the brake no noise.
So I think it's might be the wishbone moving back as every thing is hard now I should may be move to Powerflex Bushes.
Then I took the SUBARU of my brother (lowered with eicbach&KONI) and even at crazy 100Km/h no noise and the wheel stick to the ground.
I will take tomorow the strut out for the 4th time and look if their is any mark of something touching.

Ps mcandmar: my top nut was unscrewing all the time I find out that it was the bottom side of the srew(the 6 summit of the exagonal) touching in to the bottom of the alloy I grind those edge at 45° so they don't tuch any more and now they stay tight.

[maRS2]

Yes I got those marks from bushes too.
I was thinking this 3mm clearance between bushes and sub frame give the option to the bushes accelerate and hit hard the subframe thats why I try to hit the bump on the brake like this the bushes is already close to the subframe.

I got alloy subframe wich should make it even worse because now everything hard (bilstein,alloy sub frame, alloy top mount) so the softer (wishbone bushes) get all the work

[alg]

IMHO standard subframe bushes uprated wishbone bushes +- QRsport topmounts would seem to be the ideal compromise (if such a thing exists).

[mcandmar]

Same here, I’m also running shocks and alloy sub frame mounts. Curious if anybody here has alloy sub frame mounts AND poly bushings....anybody?

I don’t want to fit poly bushings without hearing people’s opinions, I would guess it would make things a little too tight and start flexing suspension parts. Defiantly keeping the alloy sub frame mounts as the car was all over the place with the stock rubber mounts, floaty subframes just made the car feel awfull.

Having thought about your comments, I never hit speed ramps at more than 20-25mph as it’s just too hard on the car, I’ve way too much mechanical sympathy for that

Mark.

Yes I got those marks from bushes too.
I was thinking this 3mm clearance between bushes and sub frame give the option to the bushes accelerate and hit hard the subframe thats why I try to hit the bump on the brake like this the bushes is already close to the subframe.

I got alloy subframe wich should make it even worse because now everything hard (bilstein,alloy sub frame, alloy top mount) so the softer (wishbone bushes) get all the work

[stevef]

qrsport top mounts the best

MACANDMAR Any Starnge noise with those.
I have a set of those QRS and evry time I get on big sharp bump I have a big "CLONCK" noise

I have these fitted and have no problems they are the best thing that i ever fitted to the car they completly transform the car and will last a lot longer than the originals I would avoid big sharp bumps anyway that will only do damage to something may you should have the car checked out i rate them 10 out of 10
kind regards Stevef

[stevef]

top mounts

Funny you should mention it yes i did! Passenger side only, only happens like you say after hitting a large hump as the wheel comes back down.

I had a look at the weekend and re-torqued everything from subframe up and it went away, It’s worth noting you have to re-torque the ring that holds the upper mount to the car a few times as it was a little lose on mine after a few miles. I guess it’s just the paint on the wheel arch getting compressed.

Keep an eye on the top nut too, I’m not happy with the fact it isn’t a locking nut so I’m checking it every week or so incase is works lose also. If that nut comes off the strut it will all come apart and do serious damage as there is no locking ring above the spring perch to hold it all together with these mounts.

Other place to check is the strut cap that hold the shock into the strut, I’ve had one of them back off too which caused a rattle over slow speed bumps.

If you have a big clonk I would go check everything and re-torque, Even with standard top mounts I found you had to re-torque the top nuts a few times after fitting as everything settles. They are a little noisy as they work the shock that bit harder but you shouldnt have a rattle or clonk, something else aint right.

Mark.

i have fitted these top mounts and have had them on now for over six months the top nut has never come loose it would be very unlucky to come loose as it is not a ridgid fitting as it is allway in a revolving plain just to be sure you can apply a drop of thread lock on the threads loc tight do a type that can easly be released with a quick shock
and is not permenent. The locking ring when settled should be re torqued and i agree keep an eye on them but that is a small effort to do in comparison with the advantages they produce, and the lenth of time they will last a suberb product like all from qrsport
kind regards Stevef