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gmac78,
Perhaps you did similar to what Steve Briance did, a full circle receiver bracket made from the original and a replacement poly snub of more volume? Where you happy with the direction it took you? I bet you now prefer your version over stock, the above listed changes are more of the same. I'm not certain if there is much difference between your's and my snubs, but in either case that each is just in contact such that it begins to work immediately I think is key.
In any case, it ain't the snub alone, the whole list together is greater than the parts. Typically, as found on a 28 yr. old example, the motor / xmsn can with torque, lift and fall slightly which in my view, is not acceptable. The two central main engine mounts alone, while good at carrying the majority of the weight and resisting torque around the crank axis, are (purposely I'm sure) simply not positioned well to resist the torque which acts perpendicularly; around the front axle.
Stock, this many decades on, the xmsn mounts and snub + bracket are not doing much of anything except being present to be struck; after the motor / xmsn has already pitched up or down. But they are in the right position to be more effective; if you choose to make them work. You can usually hear those strikes, feel them and perhaps particularly on a 5-spd., see the shift lever move during throttle induced torque reversals. They are always preceded by a short pause as the torque falls to and through zero. It is these pauses and strikes which make the car so unpleasant to drive. The reason this behaviour is so noticeably annoying is that the heavy eng / xmsn assy, with any backwards or forwards rotation, acts as a large flywheel and any small arc of its' travel (about the front axle) is also multiplied by the momentum of all the drive-train's rotating bits; and this drives all the mounts, each to the absolute limit of their available travel.
Like a wandering river's water flow, torque will take the path of least resistance and find what is the easiest thing to move first, either the car; or mounts m, n, o, p, q, r, s, t, u, v, w, x, y or z (14 loose drive-train to chassis mounts).
When set-up with the above listed kit, the 5 mounts together share in the suspending of the motor / xmsn more equally. In a similar fashion to that of your front suspension's 3 OEM mounting points per side, which can be made to more precisely hold steady the wheel / tire / brake disc / caliper & strut assy in a more fixed home position; the same (see below!) increased precision can be achieved with these 3 (the snub + xmsn mounts), an improved ability that they absolutely ought to have. Although the All-roads are frighteningly stiff and unyielding when examined in your hand, they deliver surprisingly plush quiet stillness in use. Apparently they are liquid-filled, clearly they are effective dampers. Often they are found on E-bay used and cheap.
These listed changes have got to be (IMHO) one of the easiest and most cost-effective must do lists of things almost any of us can do to improve the everyday experience of driving our cars, period.
Altogether the above changes offer 14 mount and bush locations (on a B3) where you can remove slack from the drive-train. If taken up, this removes the feeling that you are driving 15 rail-road cars along caterpillar fashion, as the characteristically loose inter-car couplings all rattle and hum in sequence during every acceleration and de-acceleration. Not to mention that the Arm-Stops are going to keep your new bushings "on-rails" steering feeling for a very long time. Unfortunately, even if you've just replaced them, if your A-arm bushes have been run un-aided (yup, just like top-mounts!), they are fated for an earlier than deserved demise. It is the extreme peak loads of braking and pot-holes that do them in.
Finally, another benefit of all of the above (slack is now gone at all those locations) is that the throttle henceforth becomes a more timely, precise and useful tool for making small steering adjustments; mid-curve. A nice capability to have that you may never have experienced to the same degree previously.
Perhaps you did similar to what Steve Briance did, a full circle receiver bracket made from the original and a replacement poly snub of more volume? Where you happy with the direction it took you? I bet you now prefer your version over stock, the above listed changes are more of the same. I'm not certain if there is much difference between your's and my snubs, but in either case that each is just in contact such that it begins to work immediately I think is key.
In any case, it ain't the snub alone, the whole list together is greater than the parts. Typically, as found on a 28 yr. old example, the motor / xmsn can with torque, lift and fall slightly which in my view, is not acceptable. The two central main engine mounts alone, while good at carrying the majority of the weight and resisting torque around the crank axis, are (purposely I'm sure) simply not positioned well to resist the torque which acts perpendicularly; around the front axle.
Stock, this many decades on, the xmsn mounts and snub + bracket are not doing much of anything except being present to be struck; after the motor / xmsn has already pitched up or down. But they are in the right position to be more effective; if you choose to make them work. You can usually hear those strikes, feel them and perhaps particularly on a 5-spd., see the shift lever move during throttle induced torque reversals. They are always preceded by a short pause as the torque falls to and through zero. It is these pauses and strikes which make the car so unpleasant to drive. The reason this behaviour is so noticeably annoying is that the heavy eng / xmsn assy, with any backwards or forwards rotation, acts as a large flywheel and any small arc of its' travel (about the front axle) is also multiplied by the momentum of all the drive-train's rotating bits; and this drives all the mounts, each to the absolute limit of their available travel.
Like a wandering river's water flow, torque will take the path of least resistance and find what is the easiest thing to move first, either the car; or mounts m, n, o, p, q, r, s, t, u, v, w, x, y or z (14 loose drive-train to chassis mounts).
When set-up with the above listed kit, the 5 mounts together share in the suspending of the motor / xmsn more equally. In a similar fashion to that of your front suspension's 3 OEM mounting points per side, which can be made to more precisely hold steady the wheel / tire / brake disc / caliper & strut assy in a more fixed home position; the same (see below!) increased precision can be achieved with these 3 (the snub + xmsn mounts), an improved ability that they absolutely ought to have. Although the All-roads are frighteningly stiff and unyielding when examined in your hand, they deliver surprisingly plush quiet stillness in use. Apparently they are liquid-filled, clearly they are effective dampers. Often they are found on E-bay used and cheap.
These listed changes have got to be (IMHO) one of the easiest and most cost-effective must do lists of things almost any of us can do to improve the everyday experience of driving our cars, period.
Altogether the above changes offer 14 mount and bush locations (on a B3) where you can remove slack from the drive-train. If taken up, this removes the feeling that you are driving 15 rail-road cars along caterpillar fashion, as the characteristically loose inter-car couplings all rattle and hum in sequence during every acceleration and de-acceleration. Not to mention that the Arm-Stops are going to keep your new bushings "on-rails" steering feeling for a very long time. Unfortunately, even if you've just replaced them, if your A-arm bushes have been run un-aided (yup, just like top-mounts!), they are fated for an earlier than deserved demise. It is the extreme peak loads of braking and pot-holes that do them in.
Finally, another benefit of all of the above (slack is now gone at all those locations) is that the throttle henceforth becomes a more timely, precise and useful tool for making small steering adjustments; mid-curve. A nice capability to have that you may never have experienced to the same degree previously.
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