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AAN auto box ZF 4HP18 CBF vs Volvo k24 7400 turbo?

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  • AAN auto box ZF 4HP18 CBF vs Volvo k24 7400 turbo?

    Thoughts on fitting a Volvo k24 7400 turbo to AAN running this box?

    From Wikipedia the AAN is 227hp, 350nM of torque. I have seen numbers for the Volvo k24 7400 at 466hp, 403nM torque.

    https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...6-k24-7400-e85

    If it is torque that kills this box, maybe the tune can be limited to ~350nM and still achieve much higher power than stock k24 turbo for a reasonable price.

    What is the max torque for this box before it dies?

    Thoughts?

    Last edited by vag_noob; 15th March 2019, 06:51.

  • #2
    Thoughts?

    get rid of that autotragic tranny
    sigpic

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    • #3
      Noted but that is a rather big job involving cutting the transmission tunnel plus will cost me a couple of grand at least and I will still have stock turbo power after the upgrade. I am not sure that 01E is so easy to come by in New Zealand, not for cheap like UK/EU and USA. Plus lots of high powered vehicles run an auto box it just depends on how much torque the box can handle without issues. I am not looking to launch the box or doing donuts and posting videos on youtube.

      When I could spend a couple of grand on upgrading the turbo for bigger power I would go that route first. Much cheaper to ship a turbo and chips from the USA than it is to ship a transmission.
      Last edited by vag_noob; 15th March 2019, 06:52.

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      • #4
        And much bored...

        Ps. That Volvo turbo isn't standard
        photobucket SUCKS
        sigpic

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        • #5
          I’m not sure there is any such thing as a standard turbo upgrade

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          • #6
            dont you have any passat b5 or audi rs4 b7 or something like that for a swap?

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            • #7
              Forget the 4HP18A... swap to the bigger 4HP24A makes it maybe reliable but not a easy swap at all.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by rxl View Post
                dont you have any passat b5 or audi rs4 b7 or something like that for a swap?
                Vehicle is C4 S4.

                If I could fit all OEM parts without cutting the transmission tunnel then I could fit the OA3 or O1E manual gearbox without a cert. But if I have to do any modifications outside of OEM, like cutting the transmission tunnel then a cert is required, from what I have read.

                Starting rate is NZ$700 for a cert, $300 - $400 for 443803961E transmission tunnel bracket shipped to NZ, gearbox NZ$1000?, shop strip and fix OA3 syncros and install gearbox NZ$1500+?, other parts NZ$1000? Total NZ$4000 - 5000? Not worth it..

                Photos of trans tunnel modification required, I guess this is also required for OA3 transmission transplant on C4 platform?

                http://www.vask.org.nz/index.php/topic,41987.0.html

                BTW the main hurdle for me is the cutting of the transmission tunnel, if this can be avoided then it would be a big cost saving. I am not even too fussed about the 6 speed, a 5 speed manual would be ok if fitment was simpler.
                Last edited by vag_noob; 16th March 2019, 06:51.

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                • #9
                  well everything cost money and its up to you to decide if its worth it or not. if you upgrade the turbo and the auto gearbox will not hold whats next?

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                  • #10
                    I'm probably the one who can get you the best answer.My UrS6 was Automatic and converted to manual.i had chipped the car with MRC gone for the 034 GT2871 kits.I had upgraded all the necessary parts except running on stock SMIC.i think your gearbox is fine since the TCU limited the torque anyway.it's faster and pull harder on cruising but that's being said the obsoleted 4speed auto box is too bored and could not unleash the real power from this setup.I finally put the manual box with the same turbo setup.it felt day and night.if you're going to put the manual you dont need to cut the whole tunnel.i just trimmed the tunnel hole slotted for the automatic shift cable big enough for the manual shift rods to be getting in,sealed with silicone and coated with the rust protection spray.it took a couple hours to get it done.The rest for the conversion is plug and play.Nothing fancy.you can get the conversion done within 2 days.
                    one of a few I5 from Asia.

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                    • #11
                      I’m not familiar with NZ laws, but how will they tell you modified the tunnel? If you cut the hole larger to fit the B5 & later style shifter box, it will cover the enlarged hole and look 100% OEM. What about fabricated gearbox mounts? Are they allowed?
                      Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                      Indigo ABY coupé
                      Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                      • #12
                        Why fabricate? Everything is OEM and almost bolt-on, the only evidence of swap will be the vehicle tag or documents. AAN 4A 01E full swap set can be bought without problems, that is not ABY/ADU. Of course I'm talking about Europe. In NZ it could be an issue, but I believe, Japan could help.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by popdemonic View Post
                          I'm probably the one who can get you the best answer.My UrS6 was Automatic and converted to manual.i had chipped the car with MRC gone for the 034 GT2871 kits.I had upgraded all the necessary parts except running on stock SMIC.i think your gearbox is fine since the TCU limited the torque anyway.it's faster and pull harder on cruising but that's being said the obsoleted 4speed auto box is too bored and could not unleash the real power from this setup.I finally put the manual box with the same turbo setup.it felt day and night.if you're going to put the manual you dont need to cut the whole tunnel.i just trimmed the tunnel hole slotted for the automatic shift cable big enough for the manual shift rods to be getting in,sealed with silicone and coated with the rust protection spray.it took a couple hours to get it done.The rest for the conversion is plug and play.Nothing fancy.you can get the conversion done within 2 days.
                          Thanks for the replies.

                          Hey pop, I know you have done this. So you did it without the bracket 443803961E. Do you have any photos of your tunnel conversion?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by vag_noob View Post

                            So you did it without the bracket 443803961E.
                            That bracket is not needed indeed. The 01E linkage bolts up to the automatic mounts.
                            Only issue is that the mounts are few centimeters too far forward compared to stock manual car, so depending on your preference you might want to re-drill the linkage mount holes to match the studs. Alternatively i have seen converted cars that have used the automatic gearbox studs and have instead adjusted the linkage to reach as far back as possible.

                            Unfortunately i dont have any pictures that correctly show the mounting or location of the gear lever in the car.

                            Zoig @ also rocking the K7400 & manual converted UrS6

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Zoig View Post

                              That bracket is not needed indeed. The 01E linkage bolts up to the automatic mounts.
                              Only issue is that the mounts are few centimeters too far forward compared to stock manual car, so depending on your preference you might want to re-drill the linkage mount holes to match the studs. Alternatively i have seen converted cars that have used the automatic gearbox studs and have instead adjusted the linkage to reach as far back as possible.

                              Unfortunately i dont have any pictures that correctly show the mounting or location of the gear lever in the car.

                              Zoig @ also rocking the K7400 & manual converted UrS6
                              Nice. Where are these linkage mount holes that may have to be repositioned? Inside the cab, or outside the cab?

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