Just got my pressure bleeder today was about to go bleed my clutch, just put in a new one. But I remember reading some where I think it was when I was looking for VAG special tools that there's a tool that's needed to depress and clamp the clutch/brake down while bleeding. Is this correct I'm not looking for the tool just wanted to know if I needed my bro to hold down the clutch while I bleed her.
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Bleeding 7a clutch
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Originally posted by milehigh303 View PostI remember reading some where I think it was when I was looking for VAG special tools that there's a tool that's needed to depress and clamp the clutch/brake down while bleeding.
If you're going to be messing around for a while, take the brake light bulbs out.
All this notwithstanding - bleeding the old-fashioned way is still better. VAG specifies the pressure bleeder purely to make a two-man job into a (theoretical) one-man job.
Someone who understands 'up' and 'down' will do a better job than any pressure bleeder.
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Originally posted by Phil Payne View PostStandard Mk I yard broom - handle against the pedal and head against the driver's headrest - adjust using the seatback wheel.
If you're going to be messing around for a while, take the brake light bulbs out.
All this notwithstanding - bleeding the old-fashioned way is still better. VAG specifies the pressure bleeder purely to make a two-man job into a (theoretical) one-man job.
Someone who understands 'up' and 'down' will do a better job than any pressure bleeder.Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon
Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
Sold ABY-stock
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Originally posted by s2driveruk View Posthttp://www.audi-nla.com
Some people shouldn't be allowed out.
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Well my clutch pedal still won't return, I got the pedal to come back maybe one third the way but it still sits like 6-7inches under the brake. That's the best I can get it if I try to keep bleeding her the pedal just goes back to the floor. When I talked to a dealership they weren't clear about the procedure to bleed, they told me it was self bleeding. Does the clutch pedal have to be depressed or not when pressure bleeding, what psi do you use I've been using 20-25. I don't want hear anything about a two man method by the way, that didn't work either. I can't find any leaks in the line. I put a new slave, I got it from Sachs, does it have to bleed while out of the tranny. Do the brakes have to be bleed just to bleed the clutch? Would the pedal just go back if I drove it around? Any thoughts?
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Originally posted by milehigh303 View PostWell my clutch pedal still won't return, I got the pedal to come back maybe one third the way but it still sits like 6-7inches under the brake. That's the best I can get it if I try to keep bleeding her the pedal just goes back to the floor. When I talked to a dealership they weren't clear about the procedure to bleed, they told me it was self bleeding. Does the clutch pedal have to be depressed or not when pressure bleeding, what psi do you use I've been using 20-25. I don't want hear anything about a two man method by the way, that didn't work either. I can't find any leaks in the line. I put a new slave, I got it from Sachs, does it have to bleed while out of the tranny. Do the brakes have to be bleed just to bleed the clutch? Would the pedal just go back if I drove it around? Any thoughts?
John
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Sorry for the late reply but I figured out my problem a few days ago, when I changed out the clutch the pressure hose got cracked and torn from being moved around so much, I cut off the crimps and put a brake hose on with some screw hose clamps (2 on each side), my rigging is what was giving me issues the hose was ballooning, if that makes sense expanding with pressure. Luckily there's a place here in Colorado that specializes in hydraulic lines for cars, like custom brakes lines and stuff. Emrik and Hill is the place, I was able to get the line rebuilt for $60 which is pretty good considering a dealership wanted $280usd for a new line and that was with out markup, they put a hose that can take 3000 psi and they brazed on reusable fittings/crimp things(pardon my technical terms) on each piece of hardline All this made it a pain to get back in but the angle was adjustable on em'. With this done it took me about two minutes to get my clutch bleed, I opened the bleed valve ( the reason why I did this is because I had my friend pull up the bleed procedure on his b5 s4 from alldata and it called for it) , attached my pressure bleeder pumped it to 20, gave my clutch pedal one pump and it came back to where it needed to be, got back under the car made sure there was no more air and closed her up.
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