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Bleeding 7a clutch

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  • Bleeding 7a clutch

    Just got my pressure bleeder today was about to go bleed my clutch, just put in a new one. But I remember reading some where I think it was when I was looking for VAG special tools that there's a tool that's needed to depress and clamp the clutch/brake down while bleeding. Is this correct I'm not looking for the tool just wanted to know if I needed my bro to hold down the clutch while I bleed her.

  • #2
    no need to do that dude

    Just make sure you bleed the brakes in the correct order, then the clutch last.
    Bleed at least 250ml from each nipple and you'll be fine
    Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
    Indigo ABY coupé
    Imola B6 S4 Avant

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply

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      • #4
        Originally posted by milehigh303 View Post
        I remember reading some where I think it was when I was looking for VAG special tools that there's a tool that's needed to depress and clamp the clutch/brake down while bleeding.
        Standard Mk I yard broom - handle against the pedal and head against the driver's headrest - adjust using the seatback wheel.

        If you're going to be messing around for a while, take the brake light bulbs out.

        All this notwithstanding - bleeding the old-fashioned way is still better. VAG specifies the pressure bleeder purely to make a two-man job into a (theoretical) one-man job.

        Someone who understands 'up' and 'down' will do a better job than any pressure bleeder.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Phil Payne View Post
          Standard Mk I yard broom - handle against the pedal and head against the driver's headrest - adjust using the seatback wheel.

          If you're going to be messing around for a while, take the brake light bulbs out.

          All this notwithstanding - bleeding the old-fashioned way is still better. VAG specifies the pressure bleeder purely to make a two-man job into a (theoretical) one-man job.

          Someone who understands 'up' and 'down' will do a better job than any pressure bleeder.
          That is the way I have been taught to do it, always works spot on and as long as I can get somebody to sit in the car for a few minutes who understands up and down its a doddle. Same with the yard brush on the seat, sometimes I even clean it first
          Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon

          Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
          Sold ABY-stock

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          • #6
            I use a pressure bleeder first otherwise the Mrs legs get tired
            Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
            Indigo ABY coupé
            Imola B6 S4 Avant

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Error404 View Post
              I use a pressure bleeder first otherwise the Mrs legs get tired.
              Does she want a derriere like Pippa Middleton's or not?

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              • #8
                sigpic

                1992 3b S2 Coupe

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                • #9
                  she's already got one
                  Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                  Indigo ABY coupé
                  Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by s2driveruk View Post
                    http://www.audi-nla.com
                    What a disaster THAT is. First it redirects 302 to a 301 to a 200. Then it has more spam than genuine posts, some of it posted 8 days after the forum opened last September that hasn't been dealt with.

                    Some people shouldn't be allowed out.

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                    • #11
                      Well my clutch pedal still won't return, I got the pedal to come back maybe one third the way but it still sits like 6-7inches under the brake. That's the best I can get it if I try to keep bleeding her the pedal just goes back to the floor. When I talked to a dealership they weren't clear about the procedure to bleed, they told me it was self bleeding. Does the clutch pedal have to be depressed or not when pressure bleeding, what psi do you use I've been using 20-25. I don't want hear anything about a two man method by the way, that didn't work either. I can't find any leaks in the line. I put a new slave, I got it from Sachs, does it have to bleed while out of the tranny. Do the brakes have to be bleed just to bleed the clutch? Would the pedal just go back if I drove it around? Any thoughts?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by milehigh303 View Post
                        Well my clutch pedal still won't return, I got the pedal to come back maybe one third the way but it still sits like 6-7inches under the brake. That's the best I can get it if I try to keep bleeding her the pedal just goes back to the floor. When I talked to a dealership they weren't clear about the procedure to bleed, they told me it was self bleeding. Does the clutch pedal have to be depressed or not when pressure bleeding, what psi do you use I've been using 20-25. I don't want hear anything about a two man method by the way, that didn't work either. I can't find any leaks in the line. I put a new slave, I got it from Sachs, does it have to bleed while out of the tranny. Do the brakes have to be bleed just to bleed the clutch? Would the pedal just go back if I drove it around? Any thoughts?
                        If pressure bleeding the clutch, have the pedal all the way up. I use 10 psi to avoid the risk of the fluid reservoir blowing off the master cylinder. The only thing the brakes and clutch share is the fluid reservoir so there's no need to bleed the brakes first. No need to bleed the slave out of the tranny first. Because of the bias spring on the clutch pedal I feel that pressure bleeding is best for the clutch.

                        John

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                        • #13
                          Sorry for the late reply but I figured out my problem a few days ago, when I changed out the clutch the pressure hose got cracked and torn from being moved around so much, I cut off the crimps and put a brake hose on with some screw hose clamps (2 on each side), my rigging is what was giving me issues the hose was ballooning, if that makes sense expanding with pressure. Luckily there's a place here in Colorado that specializes in hydraulic lines for cars, like custom brakes lines and stuff. Emrik and Hill is the place, I was able to get the line rebuilt for $60 which is pretty good considering a dealership wanted $280usd for a new line and that was with out markup, they put a hose that can take 3000 psi and they brazed on reusable fittings/crimp things(pardon my technical terms) on each piece of hardline All this made it a pain to get back in but the angle was adjustable on em'. With this done it took me about two minutes to get my clutch bleed, I opened the bleed valve ( the reason why I did this is because I had my friend pull up the bleed procedure on his b5 s4 from alldata and it called for it) , attached my pressure bleeder pumped it to 20, gave my clutch pedal one pump and it came back to where it needed to be, got back under the car made sure there was no more air and closed her up.

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