Gearbox oil questions

[Lee]

I do my transmission oils every 50k miles. I run my cars hard and to high mileages but never seem to have many propblems...maybe my over-servicing has a lot to do with it. I use Millers CRX75W90 for the diff and box. I recommend it and sell it because it is a good product but there are other equally good brands out there too.

[Mark Halligan]

i recommend REDLINE transmission fluids...they are fantastic!

I am using these too in both box and diff, been in a few years now with no probs.

[GandalfS6]

I replaced my gearbox and diff oil with Royal Purple Gearmax 75W90 a while ago, and it made a huge difference to the gearbox. Shifts feel much better. BTW Lee, they also have a 75W140 which should be OK to change gears when cold but will handle track use easily. www.royalpurple.com

[Lee]

The 80W140 oil I use is for very high stress competition car gearboxes but it doesn't have the friction modifiers to ease cold shifting. The 75W90 I sell does.

Never heard about Royal Purple oils and never seen it for sale in the UK.

[dan_b]

Lee might you be bringing any of this stuff up to Baschurch? How much?

[Lee]

Aye! PM'd you.

[Greg_S]

ooh not thought about that before Baschurch.... Anyone know part no for Gearbx and Rear Diff?

The garage stocks suitable oil made by morris oils which is pretty high quality. Its what I use in mine

Greg

[horvathg]

I have 75000 in the car and had my gearbox oil changed a month ago. It does make a difference, although it is stock spec castrol I have now. Old oil seemed absolutely clean, I have to say. I wonder if anything else could make shifting lighter

[Gringo]

VAG does not specify a service interval for the gearbox nor the rear diff. However my 01E 6 speed gearbox became a lot smoother after changing the oil. I don`t know the level of the 3B 5 speed gearbox but the 01E 6 speed is 7mm below the filler plug. ELSA specifies that the oil be measured with a self made tool, ie piece of bent wire and that the car be 100% level. It also states that the gearbox is very sensitive to over filling and prone to blow oils seals if over filled.

Paul

[porkkis]

5 speeder should be filled up as much as stays in without the fill plug.

[dan_b]

Looks like I'll be ordering some gearbox sump plugs from VAG on Monday then...

[Henka]

Fill plug fisrt.. THEN drain plug...

Looks like I'll be ordering some gearbox sump plugs from VAG on Monday then...

That is a good idea.

Clean the plugs (and I mean clean, not just look if they are dirty - CLEAN 'EM OUT or they will be ruined!) and then start your work on the FILLER PLUG FIRST! If you didn't clean it (but you promise to do that don't you?) or if the bonehead-previous-owner tried changing the oil and failed it's better to end up with just a busted fillerplug than a busted filler plug and no oil in the gearbox - that way you could always drive around thinking of how to fix it all.

Oh and also.. Get good quality (that means they should cost alot!) tools for this job. If the filler plug won't come loose - don't try to "turn it loose" - use force, brute force and bang on the end of the wrench - impacts are better in this case as the shock load in the filler plug is better than a constant torque (mainly 'cause the plug is DIRTY and you didn't clean it out meaning it won't seat properly - banging means you have to make sure it is seated every time!)

Oh, in case you wonder - no, I did not manage to change the oil. I'm driving aroung wondering how to fix it... It is a lot easier to change the oil with the 'box out of the car though... I guess there is a chance I'll be a bonehead-previous-owner if I sell the car.



About oillevel - aren't you supposed to fill it up to the filler plug on 6-speeders to???? Please tell me that's so 'cause that's what we did to a RS2 just a few months ago.