Gearbox leak and noise in 3rd

[diesel des]

Ahhhhh! So I have had real bad luck with gearboxes. My original urs4 box was noisy in first so I bought a supposed good v8 s4 box off the forum. It was noisy in almost every gear. When I did my stroker build I bought a reconditioned rs2 box off the forum.

This rs2 box seemed good when I got it but my exhaust was a bit loud. I then quietened down the exhaust and immediately noticed a ticking noise on the overrun in 3rd. Not loud but defiantly there. It's speed related and doesn't go away with the clutch depressed. Putting my foot on the throttle seems to quieten it up. All other gears seem fine.

I had noticed a small leak from the area near the prop shaft flange at the back which has got much worse. It seems to really piss oil out when the car is driven hard, to a point that oil on the exhaust went on fire and scared the **** out of me!

So are the 2 issues likely to be linked eg a shaft moving causing the noise or have I 2 faults. As the leak gets worse when pushed eg full power through second etc, is it a sign of a bearing allowing the output flange to move and let the seal leak worse?

I'm feed up with gearbox issues! Cheers des.

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[Pirvu Eugen]

These are 2 different things. Prop flange seal is 1 and 3 gear bearing or gear damaged is the second. First issue is not dificult to fix but the second needs gearbox dismantle i am afraid....

[diesel des]

Ok thanks. Not good news then. I can't understand why the leak gets worse when driving hard. Is there a bearing at the output flange too?

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[Pirvu Eugen]

Is the center diff bearing there. Not dificult to remove either.

[diesel des]

I suppose if the center diff bearing is worn I should feel that when turning the flange? How much play is allowed.

I might practice on the gearbox that is noisy in all gears first.

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[Pirvu Eugen]

Iff noise is only in 3'd, is not from the diff.
Good thing to test on the other box....is not soo easy to dismantle.
Goodluck!

[diesel des]

Yep gearboxes seem to cause a mental block in my mind. Give me an engine to build any day. ..

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[UrS6 - IamS6]

Rebuilt gearboxes way way are beyond me, but Des if you search on line there are previews of instructional videos of our boxes being stripped down by a professional. They don't show you all of the video unless you buy the video.

Two choice - get decent box from a local reliable source, or have your RS2 box rebuilt by someone who really is genuinely good and not just recommended by someone.

While the RS2 rebuild will be expensive, if built right, it should give a strong box. Wide first gear & hallow shaft ?

Or wait for a fresh B5 RS4 to be written off and pounce on it's DSY box.

TBH, you know all of the above, but hopefully it is of some use.

BTDT with 020 vw gearboxes. PITA. You have my sympathies for sure.

It is a black art when you can't do it yourself.

Regards.

[andy10v]

I can't understand why the leak gets worse when driving hard.

Could the breather be blocked?

As you have a spare box and the necessary skills, I would take it apart yourself.

01E workshop manual is on Mikes site

http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/work_shop.htm

JHM video used to be hosted about the net, but its only about $20 to buy iirc.

[diesel des]

Yea I'm starting to think if you want a job done right do it yourself. I built the rest of the car and it's ok and the one thing I bought or outsourced isn't. I will look into that video. I wonder if they would let me down load it if I pay them. Would save messing around waiting in a dvd.

I must check the breather. I did check the plastic cap is moving ok but I will put a welding rod down into it to prove it's free.

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[diesel des]

Could the breather be blocked?

As you have a spare box and the necessary skills, I would take it apart yourself.

01E workshop manual is on Mikes site

http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/work_shop.htm

JHM video used to be hosted about the net, but its only about $20 to buy iirc.

Thanks for the link! On page 51 it says that for a rs2 box that the oil should be filled to 16mm below the filler plug?!?! And 7mm on an s2 box. The gearbox reacts very sensitivity to over filling. I'm level with the filler bung. Then the gearbox used some oil and I added 200ml to bring it back up level. The leak got worse after the refill. Maybe this is one problem??

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[AndyP]

This is the DVD in question

https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/01e-speed-transmission-rebuild-video-dvd-hour47-minutes-p-11.html

I have a copy as one day I intend to strip my spare gearbox and see why it was making funny noises. The DVD makes it look very easy!

[diesel des]

Oh I like the sound of that. Just how easy? I have some pullers etc any other tools that are special required?

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[andy10v]

From Andy's link

Recommended tools to perform the rebuild

(These are only recommendations and you may substitute different tools)

Metric socket set and extensions (3/8” and ½” drive) - Flat screw drivers (medium small and large) - T45 torx socket - 10mm Multi Point Male socket (same tool used for front axle bolts when removing trans) - 3/8” drive ratchet - ½” drive ratchet - ½” drive breaker bar - ½” to 3/8” drive adapter - torque wrench(es) that can go as low as 5 ft lb to about 110 ft lb (you may need 2 to meet those requirements) - Small Hydraulic press - Bearing splitter for the press - 8” ID pipe for pressing (see video, there are other options) - 2 jaw puller (medium to heavy duty) - modified steering wheel puller or home made puller for rear case(see video) - Petroleum Jelly - Snap Ring Pliers (see video) - C clip pliers - Seal Puller or pry bar - Pry Bar - Hammers - 1.5” ID hose clamp - 1.5” OD galvanized pipe and cap 6” long (from plumbing section at hardware store) - Seal/Race driver set or Misc large sockets (see video) - picks - Vise Grips and Pliers.

NOTE: Some of the pressing operations can be completed with a longer 2 jaw puller and the use of a hammer to reinstall. This is not recommended, but in a bind this does work if done with the proper care.

The home made puller tool is a flat bit of metal, nut welded in, and bolts to the case to let you run a bolt in and push it off. Not a problem for you to knock up.



A few pictures and advice about a third of the way down this page, he recommends having a press

http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?t=1097&p=57559

[andy10v]

Yea I'm starting to think if you want a job done right do it yourself. I built the rest of the car and it's ok and the one thing I bought or outsourced isn't.

Exactly