UrS6 clutch bleeding problem.

[popdemonic]

i spent 4days on bleeding job but still no luck.bleeding clutch on this car is real PITA.
here's the story. i swapped the gearbox in 2011 from Automatic to Manual box.i would say i never had a fully disengagement on the clutch ever since.last week i swapped theDSY gearbox and going to bleed the clutch well to eliminate the clutch dragging problem.I replaced the rubber flex hose to SS braided line.first attempt i used the sealey pressure bleeder and it never worky on my car so we used the suction pump to draw the fluid down from the top.i got a very nice fully disengagement for the first time since 2011.unfortunately the ss braided line has too small inner hole on the adapter so it caused the clutch pedal slow returned back to the top stroke so i sent it to the shop and replaced with the bigger ss braided line and adapter.we did the bleeding by suction the fluid down from the top again but no worky anymore.i have tried pressure bleeding,reverse bleeding,suction pump methods.i'm so frustrated on my car at the moment spending 4days bleeding on the crazy clutch is a real nightmare.i replaced the master and slave still no luck at all.any tips or solutions on this?

[macspring]

Hi Pop,

On reading through your post, I was thinking it it wasn't a 'bleeding' issue, but that it would be either your clutch master or slave cylinders, but I see at the end of the post that these were both replaced.

Were they both brand new, and both a decent brand ?

Is it possible that there us an adjustment necessary to the length of the clevis pin arrangement at the back of the master cylinder ? Where the clutch is not being fully disengaged due to the travel not being long enough ? Not sure how you can measure or check empirically that it is the right length / being fully disengaged ?

Not really sure myself of some of the above, but just cautiously suggesting.

I presume the pedal box and the clutch pedal level etc. are all perfect ?

I presume it has nothing to do with the bearing, plastic or metal that goes on the 'external' shaft of the gearbox ?

Hopefully others can offer more help, but this gets the ball rolling, be sure and post up what the case was when it is nailed.

Best wishes.

[popdemonic]

Yes,this issue has been existed since 2011.i first thought it was something about the
Pressure plate and flywheel clearance.recently,I pulled off everything and rechecked
Again.all is in perfect.I also replaced the TOB with metal one,the clevis pin
On the MC is correct spec 109,5mm +-0,5mm the pedal box is fine.I cut
The carpet to make sure the last stroke was not bottom out.as i said
We had successfully bled it once when first ss braided line replacement.
The MC is Sachs and Slave is FTE.i had old Sachs slave.the issue is the same.
I would rule the slave out first since there's no visible leak and simply
a single chamber shouldnt leak to elsewhere.

[newsh]

You could try what we do with clutch and brakes on motorbikes, get a big syringe and pump the fluid up from the bleed nipple on the slave. This way the bubbles will go upwards the way they want to go, through the master cyl and up to the reservoir.

[tekstil]

You could try what we do with clutch and brakes on motorbikes, get a big syringe and pump the fluid up from the bleed nipple on the slave. This way the bubbles will go upwards the way they want to go, through the master cyl and up to the reservoir.

What this man said. I have bled my UrS4 clutch 2 times (gearbox change, broken master cylinder) with a big syringe and both times were successful on 1st try! Very easy, no need for special tools whatsoever.

[diesel des]

Yes I use the syringe method and it works great on my urs4.

[popdemonic]

As I said i have tried to reverse pressure bleeding by using this..


Still NO worky!I got zero on clutch pedal with this method.kinda weird on my clutch?