RS2 Wheel Nuts

[veneto rs2]

Factory manual says 130nm for RS2 wheel nuts. I believe the OE nuts are titanium alloy so hardly cheap rubbish.

AFAIK the nuts are made of a kind of ERGAL alloy, exactly the TITANAL variant that despite the name does'nt have titanium in it.

[LYT4X]

Well, I just bought a new set of twenty originals from Audi Tradition. Yes, ,they cost a fortune, but they are the muts nuts. Good enough for OEM Porsche, good enought for my RS2's.

[Rikki Kitto]

Im not sure i will have to check one next time I have the wheel off but they are in much better condition than the wheel nuts, I think they could well be steel but not 100% sure on that.

You need the ally locking nuts to match

[sailaz]

This locking wheel nut kit should be good for RS2 ?
http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod13...4-99336105700/

[rustybullethole]

I dont need the locking nuts, i have a set already and are of a different composition to the wheel nuts.

[sailaz]

I'm not offering locking nuts to you, I'm asking will they fit RS2.

Genuine nuts are very good, but only till that moment when air gun is used and overtorqued, of course

Anyone know where new ones are available.

http://trshop.audi.de/konakart/Selec...NUT&model=0001
19eur for 1 if you don't like a set of 20 for ~100eur from design911.co.uk

[rustybullethole]

Just got a set.

[Rikki Kitto]

Another resurrection, sorry I've been bored and trawling through old threads related to my issues lately, anyhoo after falling for the cheap tat of eBay several times over the past few years and realising that spending the right money first time is usually the best way forward I've decided to go with these next, expensive but should out last me and the car I've spent this replacing the cheap or not so cheap ebay ally copies over the last few years

https://www.design911.co.uk/pages/pr...itanium%20nuts

[Lago Blue]

Rikki,

From that same site, they also offer OEM closed end nuts, "black" or "chrome" for £66.40 / set of 20. These are likely both anodized aluminum alloy if actually an OEM brand and -not- chrome. I'd ask to be sure, but this would free up some cash for a proper plastic-lined 1/2" drive socket which is entirely necessary for alloy nuts, otherwise you will ruin them quickly. This is not where I got mine but similarly to Veneto's experience (post #16) above, those two items plus one can of anti-sieze has worked well for me for the past 38 years. I do take extra care when removing / installing by hand and have not even wore through the black anodize yet (I only ever torque them in stages to 75Nm, click-click).

[Rikki Kitto]

I'm worried about the cheaper ones losing their anodising quickly as the last few sets I've bought of fleabay for the same price as these didn't last that long, oem brand £3.50 Porsche original £10, wonder why such a big price gap

[Lago Blue]

Why indeed.

While the theoretical advantages of lighter rotating and un-sprung components holds obvious appeal, there are perhaps other pertinent considerations as to wheel nut choice and use than just what fits, here's a few...

Alloy nuts, are never for use on a steel wheel, is your RS2 spare alloy? Do the studs protrude an equal amount with the spare on, I have no idea?

The original genuine factory items where intended to match the quality of the forged and anodized Fuchs wheels they were first used with in what 1969?. Few wheels today are of as good quality nor remain so decades later. Later on they where also used with cast lacquered wheels also successfully, but eventually where dropped likely because most nowadays don't use sufficient care / cleanliness etc. where and when it really matters if degredation is to be avoided. And like the wheels they first served; they are expensive. To preclude damage, similar as to why they cannot be used on steel wheels, there can be absolutely no road grit on them or the wheel recesses before they are re-installed; - every - single - time. The lengths owners go to, to avoid exactly this type of damage; is legend.

Just like their OEM steel sisters, the best genuine originals of these don't have the sharp edges and corners that the repros do. So even -if- the anodize on a repro was as good as genuines', it has twice the job to do geometrically, there must be increased point loading, and it must endure on-axis socket mis-alignment better due to the lesser fine-detail machining. Often, repros are being sold (through vague description) as genuine. This one looks as though it -may- be genuine (note chamfering between flats and the radiussed transition between the flats and the back of the ball-face):

Screen Shot 2019-01-17 at 11.08.22.png

It may also be that repros aren't the same high grade tempered alloy that the genuines likely are. With genuines, you may not know the material and process specs but at least it is a genuine. Is the repro a 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, or perhaps a 1K series alloy material? What is the heat treat? Which anodize process? Is the ball-end shape just an approximation? What is the country of origin? Are they even all the same?

But in either case, if cleanliness and fresh clean anti-seize is not the first order of business, the anodize will be quickly stripped off the ball-faces, the nut goes bare alloy to bare alloy wheel nut recess, further galling ensues and the torque applied is in part increasingly consumed by the resultant friction; not just to tensioning the stud and clamping the wheel identically to its' neighbours. Obviously this results in much more uneven and unknown less effective torquing between the 5 studs. In my view it is this situation and the in general lower level of commercial service available (and the ensuing liability) which caused the factory to later dumb-down the design.

There was always the warning from the factory that for competitive driving, they should be replaced with their ordinary steel nuts. This is likely because in competition (the very activity where rotating and unspring mass might actually matter!) the above mis-torquing issue may have more consequence and as the OEM steel nut on an alloy wheel does, by providing a more favourable pairing of possible wear surfaces, preclude much of this issue.

Perhaps it needs to be said that either Al or Ti nuts are going to be inherently weaker / softer than steel versions of the same size, hence one reason the factory Al items are longer and of closed-end design.

If your current history is you are breaking / wearing off the anodize to the extent that they require too frequent replacement, you may not be entirely happy with titanium either. The intended application of Ti nuts is what, racing? If that's true, longevity and collateral damage may not be of as much concern to its' maker as it is for your more daily transportation. One could ask all the same questions of Ti nuts as with Al repros and more. Are they even anodized? Ti is less friendly electrically than either Al alloy to alloy and/or alloy to steel where the results are more predictable and known. Ti and alloy in an exposed location as this, not so much. More harm may actually occur to your wheels than to the nuts. So just understand that you maybe running a bit of a science experiment.

One fellow's Ti nut experience:

http://www.dtmpower.com/Porschewheelnutcorrosionproblem

[Rikki Kitto]

Amazing answer as always fella think I'll check out some camper wheel nuts next then seems just the ticket

[sailaz]

The reason I came across this old thread is that I'm searching info about RS2 wheels studs length, can't measure myself in near future,

and I believe they are or 70 mm or 80 mm length ( 15 mm from rotor side and 35 mm or 45 mm on wheel side respectively )

P.S. and just in case... here is cheap solution for nuts, VW p/n N0201122 for RS2 p/n 8A0601143

VW pn N0201122 for 8A0601143.JPG

[Rikki Kitto]

Get the titanium ones from 911 design much better than the alloy ones that go wrong

[Rikki Kitto]

https://www.design911.co.uk/p/titani...urce=doofinder