A little update.... well no so little 
It is time to replace my fuel pipes from front to rear.... They have been an advisory for the past few years and the MOT man has been kind to me.
When I was replacing all the rear suspension I gave them a poke and decided they are well overdue.
So an evenings task I thought turned into an epic nightmare!!!!!
First off I jacked up the rear end to get under and remove the fuel lines to the tank, unfortunately I failed at the first hurdle as the connectors on the tank were virtually rotten and not removable so chopped off the pipe and worked my way to the front of the car.
The whole interior of the boot was then removed to gain access to remove the fuel tank.
Once the fuel tank was off, I noticed a little bit of rot in the boot floor so will come to that later.
The heat shields at the rear above the prop were removed to gain access to removing the lines.
Once I got to the front where the fuel pipes disappear up behind the bulkhead I could'nt see ****** all. The reason being is that my S2 is a 3B and was fitted with procon 10 system which means you have 2 great big castings mounted to the bulkhead with a series of cables wrapped around the rear of the gearbox.
When I have had my entire interior out in the past I had already cut the internal cables and removed them from the seat belts and steering column.
To remove these brackets I had to remove the airbox and the downpipe which has not been off in the 5 years I have owned the car so all the bolts were again past their best.
Once I had gained access to the procon 10 brackets the bolts were removed and the remaining cables were cut and removed.
the remaining fuel lines were then chopped out in small sections as they weave their way between the steering rack, clutch pipes and engine wiring harness.
I have decided to use PTFE Stainless braided fuel hose so there is a possibility to run E85 in the future if I so wish.
I crawled back underneath to begin to route the new hose and fittings but had another issue.
I always intended to fit an ABY battery box under the rear seat so that I can remove the battery from the engine bay to give more room for catch tanks etc.
But doing this conversion would have made a difference to the routing of the pipes....
SO... a couple of hours later the rear interior of the car came out, I template made, A hole cut in the body under the rear seat, An ABY battery box lowered in, welded up and seam sealed to protect from rust.....
This then made me pull my finger out and instead of just mounting the box to do the battery swap at a later date, I made the decision to then run an ABY Coupe battery cable and fuse box cable through to the new battery location, so out with the front drivers seat and the underside of the dash.
Once this was completed and everything worked as it should I set about cutting out the original battery tray in the engine bay.
This then gave me an idea now I actually have a little space to play with....
Rather than the fuel lines exiting the tank on the passenger side of the car, looping over to the drivers side past the exhaust, handbrake cables, propshaft etc, down the floor under the drivers seat, up behing the steering rack, clutch pipes, engine loom etc in the engine bay to rejoin the engine on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Instead I have run the new fuel lines direct from the tank along the underside of the passenger side where the brake pipe is, straight up into the engine bay where my battery tray was. Here I have installed a very small motorsport AN fitting micro gauze filter and then straight into the original fuel pipes on the engine.
This then looked untidy running next to the brake line, so off with the brake line and this is now to be re routed down where the fuel pipe used to run...
Anyway, back to that little bit of rot...... I asked Tom to take a look at cleaning it up for me while I was working on a customers car. He shouted me over after 10 mins or so to show me it needed welding.
So when I got chance to get back to my car, I removed the rear silencer again all the bolts were beyond rusty, then dropped the rear heatshield down to uncover the worst part of all!!!!! :mad:
The back end of my car is rotten as fook!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So off with the rear bumper, and out with the rear lights and number plate holder.
All this was done on Monday night about 7pm until 5am and then for the welding
I have now spent from 7pm to 2am in the morning for the past 3 nights cutting out the rot, fabricating new panels and welding it back together.
I was so distraught when I found it all..... :shake: So much for the galv!
But it's nearly all done now. I am sick and tired of looking at it now so am calling it a day.
I will update as soon as all back together and running again and will try and update the thread with some pictures.....
It is time to replace my fuel pipes from front to rear.... They have been an advisory for the past few years and the MOT man has been kind to me.
When I was replacing all the rear suspension I gave them a poke and decided they are well overdue.
So an evenings task I thought turned into an epic nightmare!!!!!
First off I jacked up the rear end to get under and remove the fuel lines to the tank, unfortunately I failed at the first hurdle as the connectors on the tank were virtually rotten and not removable so chopped off the pipe and worked my way to the front of the car.
The whole interior of the boot was then removed to gain access to remove the fuel tank.
Once the fuel tank was off, I noticed a little bit of rot in the boot floor so will come to that later.
The heat shields at the rear above the prop were removed to gain access to removing the lines.
Once I got to the front where the fuel pipes disappear up behind the bulkhead I could'nt see ****** all. The reason being is that my S2 is a 3B and was fitted with procon 10 system which means you have 2 great big castings mounted to the bulkhead with a series of cables wrapped around the rear of the gearbox.
When I have had my entire interior out in the past I had already cut the internal cables and removed them from the seat belts and steering column.
To remove these brackets I had to remove the airbox and the downpipe which has not been off in the 5 years I have owned the car so all the bolts were again past their best.
Once I had gained access to the procon 10 brackets the bolts were removed and the remaining cables were cut and removed.
the remaining fuel lines were then chopped out in small sections as they weave their way between the steering rack, clutch pipes and engine wiring harness.
I have decided to use PTFE Stainless braided fuel hose so there is a possibility to run E85 in the future if I so wish.
I crawled back underneath to begin to route the new hose and fittings but had another issue.
I always intended to fit an ABY battery box under the rear seat so that I can remove the battery from the engine bay to give more room for catch tanks etc.
But doing this conversion would have made a difference to the routing of the pipes....
SO... a couple of hours later the rear interior of the car came out, I template made, A hole cut in the body under the rear seat, An ABY battery box lowered in, welded up and seam sealed to protect from rust.....
This then made me pull my finger out and instead of just mounting the box to do the battery swap at a later date, I made the decision to then run an ABY Coupe battery cable and fuse box cable through to the new battery location, so out with the front drivers seat and the underside of the dash.
Once this was completed and everything worked as it should I set about cutting out the original battery tray in the engine bay.
This then gave me an idea now I actually have a little space to play with....
Rather than the fuel lines exiting the tank on the passenger side of the car, looping over to the drivers side past the exhaust, handbrake cables, propshaft etc, down the floor under the drivers seat, up behing the steering rack, clutch pipes, engine loom etc in the engine bay to rejoin the engine on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Instead I have run the new fuel lines direct from the tank along the underside of the passenger side where the brake pipe is, straight up into the engine bay where my battery tray was. Here I have installed a very small motorsport AN fitting micro gauze filter and then straight into the original fuel pipes on the engine.
This then looked untidy running next to the brake line, so off with the brake line and this is now to be re routed down where the fuel pipe used to run...
Anyway, back to that little bit of rot...... I asked Tom to take a look at cleaning it up for me while I was working on a customers car. He shouted me over after 10 mins or so to show me it needed welding.
So when I got chance to get back to my car, I removed the rear silencer again all the bolts were beyond rusty, then dropped the rear heatshield down to uncover the worst part of all!!!!! :mad:
The back end of my car is rotten as fook!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So off with the rear bumper, and out with the rear lights and number plate holder.
All this was done on Monday night about 7pm until 5am and then for the welding
I have now spent from 7pm to 2am in the morning for the past 3 nights cutting out the rot, fabricating new panels and welding it back together.
I was so distraught when I found it all..... :shake: So much for the galv!
But it's nearly all done now. I am sick and tired of looking at it now so am calling it a day.
I will update as soon as all back together and running again and will try and update the thread with some pictures.....
-you need beer and sympathy! 
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