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How does it look if you lay the straight edge flat across the flange, or lay the gasket on the flange? You want the ports to line up with the runners.
Mild steel moves easier than stainless so you should be able to bolt it up leak free.
Looks like you’ve got enough room for a good sized turbo too!
Hi John
Straight edge showing that the flange isn’t perfectly straight.When I started tightening up the nuts it pulls it straight and closing up the gap .
It will need a little bit of porting as well .
Actually, just checked my manifold and the turbo flange is actually cranked further around than yours. Don't know why I thought it was inline with the head
I have just put the old K24 against it and it’s looking like hopefully it will fit .Obviously new turbo will be larger but being on V band and with possibly of rotating it maybe it will work .
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I hav heard about that manifold wrapping aint good, but so far so good after one summer of cruising. And full stainless steel manifold. Maybe its just too early to say, time will tell what happens. Wrap are not ordinary manifold wrap, its from welding spark cover/flame cover fabric. Im not sure how much heat does it isolate, but i know that it can take alot of heat .
There is not that much space on urS4 neither, but there it sits. Yea, the wastegate, dont ask, it is pain in the *** place, if you want to touch it.
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You can see from the first pic that the head flange was put on a linisher to attempt to flatten it after it must have warped when being built. It was never completely flat as a result. I paid to have it milled flat which cost a fair bit on top of the purchase cost.
After a couple of years of use the head flange warped and I had to have it machined flat. I guess that's just what you have to live with when you have aftermarket parts. The machine shop said if it warps again they would recommend cutting through the sections which join each outlet on the head flange. Pic for reference. Always pro's and con's. Good luck with yours, it can always be cut and welded to suit, however I appreciate that's not what you expected to have to do!
Actually, just checked my manifold and the turbo flange is actually cranked further around than yours. Don't know why I thought it was inline with the head
The manifold outlet does appear to be facing backwards a fair amount. Mine is pretty much inline with the head. Hopefully you will have room to squeeze your turbo in without it hitting the inner wing. I've read it's not wise to wrap a tube manifold as it can cause cracking. That's on stainless though and I guess your runners aren't stainless as they have been sprayed with some type of paint?
Hi Steve
Yes you right buddy,apparently stainless steel shouldn’t be wrapped but this isn’t stainless ,just normal.
Yeah,big headache now ,will it fit or not .Looking on internet lots of them manifold do have very similar shape but to me it looks odd
The manifold outlet does appear to be facing backwards a fair amount. Mine is pretty much inline with the head. Hopefully you will have room to squeeze your turbo in without it hitting the inner wing. I've read it's not wise to wrap a tube manifold as it can cause cracking. That's on stainless though and I guess your runners aren't stainless as they have been sprayed with some type of paint?
I have bought many products from KKD motorsport, of course not self-made products like this manifold. Everything has gone well. In this situation, the welder could have checked the straightness of the flange before shipping the product, especially when it costs alot of money . Or is it even theirs product, maybe they ordered it somewhere and just send it to you, you never know. But yeah, hope you could straighten it somehow with heat. I DIY'd my own manifold last summer with my friend, it also twitsted the flange when we weld it together, but we kindly just wait and let it cool alot before we cut it off from a thick metal plate. Maybe there was a little bend on the 4-5 cyl, but I tighten the studs from middle to edges, and it sealed nicely to head with same kind of gasket that you have. We made my manifold from stainless steel, also the flanges. Both flanges ar 8mm thick.
Sry my english maybe bad, but hope you understand.
Your English is perfect
I have made the holes slightly larger now and it fits on the studs and one of the members from forum kindly offered to try and reface the flange so that should be all good.
But the problem I have got now is when I’m looking at the manifold fitted I have got this nasty feeling there want be enough room for the turbo I want
I have bought many products from KKD motorsport, of course not self-made products like this manifold. Everything has gone well. In this situation, the welder could have checked the straightness of the flange before shipping the product, especially when it costs alot of money . Or is it even theirs product, maybe they ordered it somewhere and just send it to you, you never know. But yeah, hope you could straighten it somehow with heat. I DIY'd my own manifold last summer with my friend, it also twitsted the flange when we weld it together, but we kindly just wait and let it cool alot before we cut it off from a thick metal plate. Maybe there was a little bend on the 4-5 cyl, but I tighten the studs from middle to edges, and it sealed nicely to head with same kind of gasket that you have. We made my manifold from stainless steel, also the flanges. Both flanges ar 8mm thick.
Sry my english maybe bad, but hope you understand.
It’s got tension in from the welding which has not been relieved.
Maybe you could anneal it, so it’s soft then bolt it up to the head or something else flat.
It’s going to get heat cycled like crazy once it’s on the car anyway..
How flexible is it? Would it bolt up or does it feel like it might put too much strain on the studs?
Hi John
it was literally impossible to fit on the studs.I have used 9mm drill bit,then 9.5mm and the fine use on some of the holes of Die grinder.it was like banana but flexible.Nr 1 and nr 5 cylinder flush,middle has got about 2-3mm gap that is closing up when bolted on
It’s got tension in from the welding which has not been relieved.
Maybe you could anneal it, so it’s soft then bolt it up to the head or something else flat.
It’s going to get heat cycled like crazy once it’s on the car anyway..
How flexible is it? Would it bolt up or does it feel like it might put too much strain on the studs?
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