Possible projeckt alpinweiss II

[Rusty]

just a heads up Andy...HIC quoted me £360 for fully comp insurance, all mods declared and with UK track insurance

WOW, being old really helps

[s2driveruk]

cheeky sh*t

[S2central.net]

Whats a 'v-mount' and an 'FD-3' ?

Agreed on logic of a nice flat undertray for the reasons you mention, but I'm not sure about the bonnet vent story.

Ive seen loads of motorsport applications with bonnet vents - I'm talking about rear facing ones on the hot side of the rear of the bonnet to expel heat from the exhaust area. I can see how the frontal area of the bonnet is a high pressure area but not the upper surface - especially in the area where correctly shaped vents should create the turbulence necessary to 'suck' out the hot air... Are you saying that the vents didn't work as there was such a pressure difference above and below the bonnet that they sucked ambient air down into the engine bay ?

[Rusty]

FFS Paul, you're sounding like a man after my own heart... , even down to the works stripes.

To reply to your thread but not quote as it'll take too much editing:-

• strip it - yes
• seam weld it - when the cage is fitted
• cage it - a proper welded in multipoint cage from likes of Safety Devices - agree
• fit a sump guard - further stiffens the front and consider extra protection for gearbox and fuel tank if you happen to find kerbs n grass - possibly but last thing on the list really, the S2 is quite well behaved so excursions are few and far between (crosses everything)
• fire extinguishers - at least one you can reach inside and I would fit a fireater with external trigger for inside and the engine bay - good point, had overlooked that
• battery cut off - internal and external - ditto above comment
• bonnet and boot pins - no, don't want to ruin the body or security... for now
• Sorry to be boring, but seriously dont skimp on the safety aspect - you might only ever need it once, but when you do, you need it to work! - agree 100%
• reinforce / fabricate some handy jack points - especially useful when car is even lower - good point, will take some looking into later on
• fit wheel studs - all race cars have wheel studs! - later, once I've finalised wheels as OZs require longer studs than other wheels
• fit a brake bias valve or an adjustable proportioning master cylinder - was thinking about this last night, something for the future with a bias box
• ditch the ABS (if you are brave) - its heavy - ditto above comment
• Fit a bigger oil cooler - when the standard one needs replacing I will as it's the same cost and maybe a bigger radiator
• Use the RS2 water pump -> higher flow rate than ABY one - already got one
• Fit manual switches to control all the radfan speeds and one for afterrun as well - all done except after run pump
• Add some brake ducts - easier said than done, believe me I've looked
• Fit vented rears so you can achieve better balance (S4/S6/S8 combo for 280x20 bolt-on) - expense and not really required as the standard brakes work fine, got some DS2500s in there and the soft standard suspension causes the ABS to cut in anyway so any more braking power is pointles.... for now.
• Consider even bigger fronts than you have now (where funds permit) - no need, 314s and DS2500s are just fine and are lighter than the bigger options
• Air scoop on your front wing for proper cold air intake along with vents on the bonnet to let heat out - nice idea, I want to do it with a carbon bonnet
• Alloy subframe mounts - already planned in, front anyway, just replaced them and rears are 1 YO
• Track density engine / tranny mounts - trans mounts are new OE, engine mounts when they need changing.
• Fully adjustable coilover suspenders (when funds available) - "when funds allow"
• Side exit zorst with scream pipe (unless too loud for some track noise rules) - need 90dB system to gaurantee entry, don't want a screamer pipe, it's not necessary for my modest power requirements of GT3071 max.
• Ported head, lightened/balanced bottom end with ARP studs - exotic / light internals where funds permit - this would come before anything else, ported head later, nothing expensive, just functional replacement of rods and a proper rebuild.
• Consider an LSD at the rear - no need, the front washes out rather than the back spinning up and there's teh issue of strength and price, would be fun though
• Consider an LSD at the front (Quaife ATB for 01E where funds permit) - nope
• Add datalogging and other instrumentation (EGT, IAT, AFR, FPR etc) - yup, when tuning is more than standard and funds allow, WB-O2 is a must

Then get it painted up with de-rigeur Audi racing red-black regalia on that white body - it will look pheckin brilliant - absolutely the last thing after the fibreglass wings etc

One word of advice wrt stripping the cabin and dashboard - keep enough of the hot air ducting and the heater matrix in the cabin so you can clear condensation from the screen when running anywhere that is potentially damp. Otherwise you will be tortured by poor visibility on anything less than perfect dry days. - already there mate

[Rusty]

cheeky sh*t

Would I be anything else?

I'll wait and see what Greenlight quote, HIC were always shyte, had it with Flux fo a bit but no agreed value. HIC and GL were the same insurance company, GL were 1/2 price and £6k agreed value.

[Rusty]

Bonnet vents look cool though so using v=MAX.P.Ch.Av they must make it faster

[stiglet]

Stop being a pussy. Get it done.

Although i would sort out the handling before i did any engine mods. Have you considered using the 034 delrin stuff and motorsport mounts?

[stiglet]

Would you get some really stiff coil overs and then bin the ARB's? If so... I am voting yes!

Agreed

[Rusty]

Why get rid of the ARBs?

I'm going to strip it and see what happens from there, nothing irreversible so that if I don't like it then I can change it back.

[stiglet]

Well TBH it boils down to personal preference but you might find really stiff ARB's unnecessary with stiffer springs.

[Rusty]

Suppose. Suspension is a long way off, engine is next major thing, suspension is all new OE stuff so is pretty toight (like a tyger!)

[Rusty]

This one's captured the imagination, just looked at the poll, 3:1 in favour!

[Error404]

Whats a 'v-mount' and an 'FD-3' ?

Agreed on logic of a nice flat undertray for the reasons you mention, but I'm not sure about the bonnet vent story.

FD:


V-mount:


The vented bonnet we tested increased coolant and charge temps significantly over the stock alloy one - both the rad and IC were working less efficiently - in my (perhaps flawed!) logic, the only variable was the bonnet vents - i figured that the only way the coolers could work less efficiently was not being able to vent off hot exhaust air from the engine bay - since the undertray and the rear of the engine bay hadn't changed, the vented bonnet by default was causing a reduction in airflow through the engine bay
If my fluid dynamics are right air flowing up over the cars bonnet has to slows down when it changes direction to flow up over the windscreen, that causes the high pressure area, and a potential pressure differential between that and the engine bay.

[stiglet]

Suppose. Suspension is a long way off, engine is next major thing, suspension is all new OE stuff so is pretty toight (like a tyger!)

Ah right, fair enough. Little point in changing what you've recently replaced anyway.

Little things like short shift kits also make everyday/track driving a little more fun too

[redz]

FD:


V-mount:


.

RX7 I would have one if i could fit behind the wheel, no good for people over 6ft.. still luv em