034 92.8 & 100mm crank
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/\ that thread is a prime example of why I can't be arsed going on MG
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Kinda interesting 034 selling this after flaming it here http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41648Leave a comment:
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some of the volvo ( redblock 4pot) b230/ b23 have over 1000 hp;org bore 96,00, think some guy have 1303hp(!!!!); but they does have some concreet in the bottom of waterjacket, before reboring
they does have very thin syl walls.. under 4mm at 96,00( havent checked this myselves!)Leave a comment:
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THE block im talkin about are the 2,2 liter 3b( 81,00 bore) or diesel 2,5tdi (236 deck)
.. the 7a are 82,5 bore std... i have also a 7a with 83,00... i will meshure this...
other block arent wery intres for this people in this forum i think...
i have older engines too, with 79,5 pistoms ( 2,4diesel fx)
ive seen some firm i deutchland offer 84,00 pistons to audi 5pot too..
smokey yunick ( power secrets) said not have thinner sylinderwalls than 3,3mm; im agree...
may i recomend to moove the syl 1 and 5 2mm of center, then syl 2 and 4 1mm of center and syl nr 3 in org pos; then you save some space between syl
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Depends on which motor you start with, there's a couple different stock bores. The bore spacing is 88mm, so some quick math will give you your wall thickness.
And yes your previous math looks correct, an 84mm piston will get you up to 2770+ccLeave a comment:
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the org sylinder wall are about 6,1-6,3mm..in audi 5pot i have the tools to test it...Leave a comment:
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if you take the sylinder bore to 84,00 the sylinderwall are redused to about 4,6mm... thats eneugh to have the turbo on too... the old redblock volvo have about 3,6mm sylinder walls, and they still bore this too 97,00 mm and have the turbo in... BUT the audi does have very narrow sylinders; so you will have the HOT spot between the sylinders; that bad too...so, toy can have 84,00 and 100mm cranc; may i remember the figs; 2771ccm as a max??Leave a comment:
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what is the point of 2.8 liters.....are 2.5 not enough for half the money?Leave a comment:
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Not that I am dbouting your information but how the hell did Audi test upto 1400bhp?
I would love to see an article on that!Leave a comment:
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Exactly, for turbo motors, and motors with decent life spans you want to keep the extra wall material in there. For the guy that needs every last bit of air to pump through that motor at all costs.... things start getting much more ragged edge.i was going to say...
are these numbers considered for cars that are meant not to be rebuilt every 40K kms? and rebuild is one thing, with bores being that thin, id say throw away and get another block...
realistically 2.5 with the crank 144 rods and pistons custom would be nice, on the short block, and maybe 2.6 to 2.7 at most for a reliable turbo engine on the tall.
but hey, nice thoughts!Leave a comment:
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Personally, I would be more worried about a billet crank that a forged crank since forging is used to orient the "grains" and density of the metal to good advantage. With a billet crank you wouldn't get that. Everything portion would be the same regardless of the stresses that they would be subjected to = more potential weak pointsLeave a comment:
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i was going to say...
are these numbers considered for cars that are meant not to be rebuilt every 40K kms? and rebuild is one thing, with bores being that thin, id say throw away and get another block...
realistically 2.5 with the crank 144 rods and pistons custom would be nice, on the short block, and maybe 2.6 to 2.7 at most for a reliable turbo engine on the tall.
but hey, nice thoughts!Leave a comment:
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