Urgent ! prop shaft stuck

[BruceLeeURS6]

During the week me and mark have been on my s6 trying to remove the rear axle ,
close to the end after removing all nuts and bolts of the axle we found that the prop shaft will not separate from the rear diff

(bolts were removed from the prop shaft at the beginning of job), the shaft is rust welded together anyone have any ideas on how to separate this with out coursing any damage cannot afford to buy a new one ??

[Pirvu Eugen]

penetrating oil and 100000 kg hammer
Really... penetrating oil and hammer arround the cv joint..

[BruceLeeURS6]

penetrating oil and 100000 kg hammer
Really... penetrating oil and hammer arround the cv joint..

that was a quick reply thanks

[Pirvu Eugen]

You can..lightly... hit the flange too round the edge....will pop out.. dont hit the flange too hard though.

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

We've unbolted the whole rear suspension/subframe all in one unit,went to lower it on the trolley jack and the propshaft joint to rear diff wouldn't budge at all. I'm just worried that penetrating oil isn't going to be enough and any hammering is going to damage the thin looking flange. This rear suspension has unbolted fairly well but the drivers side has fought us all the way and is frankly getting on my go****. We're determined to save it as it's a special car!

Any other ideas anyone???

[BruceLeeURS6]

[newsh]

Soak it in a 50/50 mix of ATF and thinners.
Club hammer and block of wood as a soft drift.
Block of wood against the nose of the joint, give it a tap, revolve it, tap again.

[Pirvu Eugen]

You just need to spray the oil and lightly tap the edges of the flange... the vibrations will alow the oil to penetrate the rust. then..use the hammer and a chisel to hit the cv outwards of the flange.

[Pirvu Eugen]

Soak it in a 50/50 mix of ATF and thinners.
Club hammer and block of wood as a soft drift.
Block of wood against the nose of the joint, give it a tap, revolve it, tap again.

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Soak it in a 50/50 mix of ATF and thinners.
Club hammer and block of wood as a soft drift.
Block of wood against the nose of the joint, give it a tap, revolve it, tap again.

I've just been thinking something similar John but using plus gas penertaring fluid and using as small panel pin hammer to bounce it carefully all around the outside of the flange and not on the very then end. What do you think?

[Ryss]

I have experienced this problem.

I cut too small notches 180 degrees apart on the side of the cv, as close to the edge as possible. First cut 90 then sloped at 45 degrees, so that a stone chisel fits in the notch.

Few hefty wacks on the chisel slopping away from the diff, with a big hammer and bobs your uncle. Diff needs to be fixed in place.

[newsh]

A pin hammer will just bounce off, you need a bit of mass. Use a bigger hammer and don't hit too hard. A block will stop you leaving hammer marks on it.

[newsh]

ATF and thinners is really good

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Do you mean Auto transmission fluid?

So you reckon atf and thinners is better than plus gas??

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Big thanks to all of you who have replied,much appreciated.


Just so we can understand what i'm trying to do,i'm trying to separate the very rusty flange which is the flange on the diff from the prop. I'm not sure what you mean by putting notches into it at 180 degrees and i'm no good at writing on pictures.