Need some parts for my dagdag

[turbodriver63]

Is there anyone you can actually pay to get this rectified?
I don't have the skills/patients/time/space/tools to do this job myself

[newsh]

There's a guy called Diesel Bob you can send your pump to for overhaul.

[turbodriver63]

Good to know Newsh
I'd prefer someone to take the car and sort it, preferably near London

[newsh]

Well there's always Pete Berry at White Cottage Quattros 01403 790 054

[newsh]

Here's Bob

http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/

[newsh]

Well, having a nightmare with this car. Got the pump and injectors from re2500, fitted the 3rd injector which was showing a fault code and the car ran really nice for about 15 mins then the idle went bad again, what with all the festivities etc and the storms, had to wait then till after New Year to try the pump. The pump is slightl different in that the return feed pipe comes out in a different place but it's all hooked up but now the pump is full of diesel but will not bleed.. We now also have a new fault code 00765 Slide Control Travel (Piston Displacement) Sensor -G149

Any ideas guys before I torch the thing?

[re2500]

Hi John,

Sorry to hear your still having trouble, i used a mityvac style vacuum pump on the pump tank return pipe to suck the diesel into the pump and fill it until no bubbles come out before trying to start it. Do you have a pump like this you could use?? If not then a very large syringe would probably work, and available from a local farmers or vet fairly cheaply?
The G149 sensor is the rotary position sensor inside the QI on the diesel pump. Is the pump pulley timed in correctly to the engine? as i think this sensor probably checks that the timing is correct. Either that or maybe if the pump appears different to the one you removed maybe the pump is not compatible? It came off a L reg 80 saloon...

Check out this link for info on the 1.9 tdi and is associated systems. It talks about the G149 in the document....

http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/tdi-technik-eng.pdf

[re2500]

The other thing you could do if you are sure the timing is correct and the pump is bled and your still getting a g149 code (which by the way will shut off the engine if this code appears) then i think it should be possible to swap the QA (quantity adjuster) between the two pumps that you have. What i mean by this is the Injection pump looks like a miniture engine a little bit (if you squint) i think it should be possible to swap over the effective "rocker cover" (the QA cover) and "cylinder head" (the QA) that i think contains the G149 sensor between the two units. This would ensure the G149 is compatible with your ECU. Take a look at post #10 in this thread. The g149 is the little black block on the side.
Obviously if you do this the IQ (Injection Quantity) will have changed and the QA position on the pump should be adjust manually to tune this.
Just make sure you use the seals of the pump i sent you as they were nice and new...

[AndyP]

This may be a daft question but have you tried cranking the engine to bleed the fuel system? I fitted a new fuel pump on my TDi ( 5 cyl AEL ) recently and I bled it by cracking the fuel line nuts on each injector and cranking the engine until fuel leaked out. Re-tighten each nut in turn , then start the engine, mine ran a bit rough for about 15secs then settled to a steady idle.

[newsh]

Yes, fuel has been vacuumed through, the injectors have been cracked off and it just wont bleed, cranking over there's no fuel from the injector lines.

I guess we start swapping parts around..

[newsh]

Just reading through everthing again, when the 3rd injector was changed it idled fine for a while then went bad again, so maybe it was till lean and therefore chugged when warmed up? Tempted to try the original pump again with the seals from the replacement to stop the leaking and try richening it up.

[bigguns]

Not sure if this is any help but depending on your model year I believe different fuel pumps need to be used as there was a changeover in ecu's 95ish and I remember reading that the ecu would only run with the specific pump from before or after the changeover. This may or may not be true? I have the later model and the idling is caused by the electronics in the top part of the fuel pump, I ended up shipping a new pump over from Germany which worked out cheaper than having a recon in this country and only used the head. It Now runs perfectly no hunting at idle, no Vagcom needed, Just a Rubber mallet and a stake. See youtube for the Hammer Method/mod. You may need to get hold of a triangular Metalnerd Socket. Lots of useful information at Diesel Geeks http://www.dieselgeek.com/

Goodluck

[re2500]

Just reading through everthing again, when the 3rd injector was changed it idled fine for a while then went bad again, so maybe it was till lean and therefore chugged when warmed up? Tempted to try the original pump again with the seals from the replacement to stop the leaking and try richening it up.

That sounds plausible, or if you dont want to break open the pump i sent you then the seal kit i bought was bosch part number 2 467 010 003 -002 and i think it cost less than a tenner. I had to trim a tab off one of the seals but i can explain further if you decide to go this route...

[re2500]

Rather than buying a triangular socket i just butchered the head using different sockets quite easily then replaced the bolt with a regular cap head, just cheaper an easier in the future, especially if your trial and error adjusting the IQ.

[newsh]

So, what's the difference between the 2 pumps? The one with the fuel feed at the back and the one with it on the top?