Pauter & Carrillo rods

[Lee]

Does the transaction value used for postage affect the shipping insurance cover available? If yes, is there a dodge. I haven't found a firm yet who would alter the value of goods figure which is printed on the package (and the invoice inside the package). Have been wondering about this for a while. I would have thought that the Post Office could confirm duty payable and I think the cutoff was about $150...could be wrong mind.

[Sweeper]

The value you put on the box (for example 20$) is dirrectly affects insurance . It will be insurred for the same 20$.

So .... sin't very comfortable to lose something valuable becouse of reducing price. But guys ...

Persona to person shipments(for most of the countries , don't know about UK) are excludedof any type of taxes !!!!!!

So basicly someone in US will buy it for you and resent it stating 1000$ or 10$ price. Doesn't matter. Only % for insurance will be affected(an the cost of shipping(insurred) of cource).

Just my exp with shipping worldwide.

[S2 Ant]

Have tried that kinda thing before.... customs inspect almost all items for a person to check for import duty i've never seen the whole "its only $20" in there thing work yet...

also if they do missing you'll get ur $20 back tho..... oh did he forget to mention the other $1000 you can whistle for? LOL

[auditude]

Hey I have a question about rods and 20vt upgrades in general.

I'm thinking that if I want to have a streetable motor, meaning it spools at a useable rpm, then that means that the turbo wouldn't be as big as it would be if I was going for a race motor, right? So, let's say that means a turbo like an RS2 or something else that is only a little bit "better" as far as max power.

So, I hear the RS2 is good for like 380hp, and one that is a little bit better but still streetable would maybe be good for 400hp and not much more, right?

So, if the goal is to have something that can still be driven on the street that isn't all tempermental, then do I almost talk myself out of needing to upgrade the rods at all?

Are upgraded rods only required if one is going for a race-style motor, and in that case it won't be very much fun to drive on the street unless you are racing someone else with a big turbo?

The car in question would be a 1985 U.S. 4000 quattro (european 80/90, type 85 chassis) with a 3B motor, Wagner intake manifold, and RS2 exhaust manifold. I think the gear ratio is 4.11:1, by the way.

And another question is, if one was to try to fit a 2.5 liter crank, would the rods be different than with the standard 2.22 liter crank?

[90quattrocoupe]

Originally posted by auditude
Hey I have a question about rods and 20vt upgrades in general.

I'm thinking that if I want to have a streetable motor, meaning it spools at a useable rpm, then that means that the turbo wouldn't be as big as it would be if I was going for a race motor, right? So, let's say that means a turbo like an RS2 or something else that is only a little bit "better" as far as max power.

So, I hear the RS2 is good for like 380hp, and one that is a little bit better but still streetable would maybe be good for 400hp and not much more, right?

So, if the goal is to have something that can still be driven on the street that isn't all tempermental, then do I almost talk myself out of needing to upgrade the rods at all?

Are upgraded rods only required if one is going for a race-style motor, and in that case it won't be very much fun to drive on the street unless you are racing someone else with a big turbo?

The car in question would be a 1985 U.S. 4000 quattro (european 80/90, type 85 chassis) with a 3B motor, Wagner intake manifold, and RS2 exhaust manifold. I think the gear ratio is 4.11:1, by the way.

And another question is, if one was to try to fit a 2.5 liter crank, would the rods be different than with the standard 2.22 liter crank?

Well personally I always think of the certain items as cheap insurance. Granted, 1300USD is not cheap, but lets say you have done a few mods to your car, and you are putting out about 325 to 350 hp. Not extreme for these motors, but near the limits of some of the stock parts.

If for some reason, something mechanical or electrical malfunctions, and you get overboost, then the Carillo rods may prevent some damage.

The Carillos may prevent some of the damage Steve had in addition to the rods. He needs a new block. How much are they?

Then you could alway have everything to replace including the head, if the rod broke completely, piston stays at top of stroke, valves hit pistons, valves break, hit head, and now you add it up. New block, new rods, new head, and probably new pistons.

The rods aren't cheap, but they could prevent a more costly experience. In the long run, cheap insurance.

2.5 crank = different rods+different pistons.

[90quattrocoupe]

Originally posted by Sweeper
The value you put on the box (for example 20$) is dirrectly affects insurance . It will be insurred for the same 20$.

So .... sin't very comfortable to lose something valuable becouse of reducing price. But guys ...

Persona to person shipments(for most of the countries , don't know about UK) are excludedof any type of taxes !!!!!!

So basicly someone in US will buy it for you and resent it stating 1000$ or 10$ price. Doesn't matter. Only % for insurance will be affected(an the cost of shipping(insurred) of cource).

Just my exp with shipping worldwide.

Hi,
If you figure out a way to ship something from US to Europe to avoid any taxes, let me know and I will do the shipping for you. You know send it as used, I could pour a little old oil on the rods, or family, or something let me know.

Greg

[auditude]

Originally posted by 90quattrocoupe
Well personally I always think of the certain items as cheap insurance. Granted, 1300USD is not cheap, but lets say you have done a few mods to your car, and you are putting out about 325 to 350 hp. Not extreme for these motors, but near the limits of some of the stock parts.

If for some reason, something mechanical or electrical malfunctions, and you get overboost, then the Carillo rods may prevent some damage.

The Carillos may prevent some of the damage Steve had in addition to the rods. He needs a new block. How much are they?

Then you could alway have everything to replace including the head, if the rod broke completely, piston stays at top of stroke, valves hit pistons, valves break, hit head, and now you add it up. New block, new rods, new head, and probably new pistons.

The rods aren't cheap, but they could prevent a more costly experience. In the long run, cheap insurance.

2.5 crank = different rods+different pistons.

I see, thanks for the feedback. What damage did Steve have? I missed that info.

(What) do you guys think of the rods that Eurospec offers? They look like what are called "Eagle" rods, which I think are forged Asian copies of Carrillos.

Also, Eurospec offers a 2.5l short block. Does anyone have any thoughts on it? I read that VAGsport also has something like this. Here's a link to their page:
http://www.eurospecsport.com/stroker%20comp.htm

Oops, that's the stroker kit. The stroker short block is here:

http://www.eurospecsport.com/engineframe.htm#shortblock
and here: http://www.eurospecsport.com/db/details.php?id=432

Is that motor not as good as the one Dialynx built in this article?

http://www.sls.wau.nl/fstolp/magazines/AudiDriver/500bhp.htm

I wonder with the cost of rods and bearings and machine work if I shouldn't just get the stroker short block. But if 2.22l is safer, better, or more useful, then not.

I'm thinking too far ahead of where I need to be thinking, but it is still fun.

[Mark Halligan]

If for some reason, something mechanical or electrical malfunctions, and you get overboost, then the Carillo rods may prevent some damage.

Greg, your right.

This happened to me last week ( the day of the RR session) during a mapping session with Mihnea, all of a sudden and without warning the turbo would spool up and the boost would go off the scale on my 2 bar boost gauge. Luckily because of what we were doing, we were watching the gauge like hawks and I was in a position to back off before any damage was incurred.
It turned out to be the WGFV going mental, and it was only a few months old too!!!
Even more worrying when you think that the motor had been on the rolling road a few hours before..........that would have been exciting if it had let go then:eek2: .

That experience has really made me think, after all, most of the time when you nail it, your eye's are on the road, trying to stay on it .
Carrillos have got to be the best, if not cheapest insurance against potential disaster/tears .

Cheers,

Mark.

[porkkis]

There is a third quality option for the rods. Swedish Verdi's. I think few of our Swedish friends over here are using those and are able to tell more about them.
Price for five is a bit over 1000e if I remember correctly.

[Doug_RS2]

How much work is it to change the conrods? Is it the complete engine out? And does that mean taking the gearbox out with it?

What other bits would get changed or uprated while the rods are being changed?

[audiman]

Totally agree Mark. But my wallet cant stretch this far yet.

If you want a car that is easily driveable on the road, then RS2 setup is about the best. I miss the low down torque that is now gone by fitting the large turbo.

But its all good once wound up now!

[audiman]

To change the rods is an engine out job. And a head off job. So that means hook the engine out and leave the box in the car. Ideal time now Doug Dont forget to chuck in a good clutch

[Pisobiker]

@ Auditude,

If I'm not wrong Eurospec doesn't offer a 2.5L option with 81mm bore and 95.5mm stroke. They offer two solutions of stroke, but both with the 82.5mm bore.
This bore might be ok on a high performance NA engine, but is known to be a little "to the limit" for high boost turbocharged applications.
I'm right now exploring the possibility of building my 81mm bore 95.5mm stroke 2.5L engine.
I already have stripped the AEL block and are dialing with Carillo and JE to see which best option of piston-conrods configuration is possible and for how much.
Carrillo already quoted 318$ each for 5 titanium H beam conrods with studs, which is a little more of what others have been quoted (might be your price was without studs?).
Before going on with definition of dimensions I need to have a talk with JE to have them suggest the best pin center to piston crown hight for my application. This will let me know how long the conrod will be (the longer the better, for conrod max acceleration issues).
As a matter of fact AEL conrods (see my post on "RS2 vs 2.5 Tdi conrods") are 144mm center to center lenght; same as 2.226L. They look really good and much stronger than S2/RS2 ones, so an option could have been using them together with custom pistons. Unfortunatly this wont work on the 95.5 stroke because this would need a too high pin center to piston crown hight. Other main difference is pin diameter: 26mm for the Tdi vs. 20mm .

Any suggestions on this topic welcome.
I'll keep the forum updated while having some answers from JE and Carrillo.


Marco

[91_S2]

This will let me know how long the conrod will be (the longer the better, for conrod max acceleration issues).

Marco

Hi Marco,

You are way outta my league but I am curious. How does the length affect max acceleration? I am not getting this

ciao buddy,

Rich

[newsh]

If they were a bit oiley and wrapped in newspaper and bubble wrap they would be second hand motor spares. No duty or tax AFAIK.